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Just figured it was time for clean thread on this. I used a NTK25572 single wire O2 sensor for the ECU AEM wide band gauge and sensor for the read out Stock ECU, PRW-2 for the ignition transistor (and the correct transistor as well for testing). Aftermarket CAS (NTK) due to OE flaking out. the rest is all stock (turbo/CHTS/Knock sensor, Idle air control (vacuum modulator to control it), EGR.

Welcome to the club! Sounds pretty good, I do think that idle is a little high - probably by a couple hundred RPM. The stock L28ET ECCS will "prime" the fuel system running the fuel pump for about 4 seconds at IGN ON. It'll then stop the fuel pump and not run it again until it gets the signal from the CAS that the engine is turning. It doesn't have to be fired, just a stable repeating signal from the CAS. Like I said before, the green LED will come on at IGN ON and will stay lit until the ECU gets that signal from the CAS. You can watch for that too (if your ignition key wasn't on the opposite side.. 😝) Those AFR's look pretty standard for the stock engine management. I'm impressed with your test stand and I think you've got a nice L28ET there. I'm probably more impressed that you have it running so well with the stock harness... Enjoy it! I do. Goldie is an uphill beast - the torque of the turbo motor is awesome even at stock boost. Stock boost is 1/2 Bar (~7ish pounds) and the stock over-pressure relief valve is set for something between 9 and 10 pounds. The intake manifold has a "blowoff valve" built in (that's not what Nissan calls it, but it performs the same function - dissipates the boost pressure if the throttle is suddenly closed so it doesn't slam back to the compressor wheel).

The first real wash since the 90s. In the end, paint has a few areas of cracking but in decent shape. Will see how a wax will go to remove blemishes here and there. twicepipes arrive tomorow.

Even in an Olde Timey A/C system, there's a sensor attached to the evaporator (cooling) coil and a microswitch or temperature control dial or lever. Just like in your newer automobile... The "knob" came with your new Vintage Air Refrigeration system, correct? You shouldn't need to replace it. You also need to be more specific - "the AC does cut off sometimes." What do you mean? It stops working entirely? The fan doesn't blow? You can tell that the compressor shuts down? Does it start cooling again at some point? To me, it sounds like the charge is not correct - for some people, it's more difficult to properly charge when the ambient temperature is low (like the "winter" months in Arizona when the ambient temps are in the 70's or 80's (but it still gets to 100 inside the car in the parking lot)).

Factory Service Manuals - NICOclub Nicoclub.com is run by a good friend of ours on the other side of town. (the Ads are horrific, but if you need an FSM, it's worth the trip...)

Okay, you guys have my attention now. Thanks, @kully 560 & @HusseinHolland!

removed rear bracket from the old struts just a little wear on the body side pivot I reused one old bushing on each end of each strut Even with the hatch blind, it now lifts itself once it's lifted about 8-10" off the catch

yeah I was planning on giving it a go, was just reading up on testing a harness seems straight forward but you obviously need to know where each wire terminates on both ends, so would make sense to do it while all the tape is off

It isn't really complicated, but some knowledge of how it works, and understanding the components is helpful in making an informed decision regarding the performance of the system.

Probably just me, but when I see the 240 dash, I see this:

The '78's a lot easier to replace than the previous years. It only has one inlet and then the return to the fuel tank line. I bought from rockauto for about $70 IIRC? I made myself an aluminum rail and it really helped displace the heat. The critical measurements are in post #21 from our good friend @Willoughby Z And Zeds dead on about those adjustable FPRs. The only one I've ever read that held pressure was an Airtech I believe, $250. You can make your own gauge for $20 and put it after the fuel filter similar to @EuroDat's.