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The new stainless-steel WINDOW CORNER TRIMS ARE HERE !😍 Front and rear upper corners with the lower, short-straight connexion strip. Buy both ends (full kit) or just front or rear (single kit) ! (kits will not be split eg 1x corner or 1x connexion strip !) Fitting both 2x seaters and 2+2s. Prices : Full kit :usd$120 aud$175 cad$160............. €110 £100 Postage : USA/AUS/CAD $6/9/8....................EU €5 £5 Group shipments available. Single kit : usd$65 aud$95 cad$90................€60 £55 Postage : same as above (same weight/price band) ! Payment available via Paypal, Wise-Transfer and int. bank wire. TO PLACE AND ORDER, please PM/DM me and quote your full name and postal address - thanks. These will be available via Ebay but more expensive so as to cover all the selling charges

Todsay i have some very good news, some not so good ones and then some good ones again. The very good news: The bodyshop started working on the car in full force. And they seem way more professional than the previos one. Not that he was really bad or so, but you see those guys have a different approach of working. Before they even plugged in the welder, they decided to measure through the entire chassis and compare them to the original drawings and check if everything is straight. And now the bad news. It seems it's not. According to them, it once got a hit front left, and the difference from height from the left to the right side is approx 1,5cm. The good thing is, i have the complete NOS factory LH Frame rails. complete front inner fender and Air channels. so basically they can rebuild a whole corner of the car with NOS parts. But before they start, they will put the car on an alignment bench and get it straight. Otherwise it makes no sense to replace parts on a bent car. you better get it right before you even start. While one guy measures all the corners and is setting up a plan in which order the car needs to be rebuilt so it remains solid all the time, the other guy is already busy preparing all the old panels. Some have small storage and transport dents or need corrrection here and there, so the other prepares all the body panels. excellent. They promised to send some pictures soon. I yet have to see the work, but i have a much better feeling. They haven't asked for a cent yet, while the other one always wanted to be paid in advance (which i can also understand somehow), they have set up multiple calls to clarify details, they ask the right questions and are more interested in showing me solutions than showing me problems they found. So far, that's way more my kind uf guys. let's see. Now the good news again: I was able to obtain another big Parts lot from an old parts hoarder. This time it's not so many NOS parts, but more of well preserved or resfurbished stuff. Mainly about 20 kilograms of replated bolts and fasteners in really good quality (he sorted them for his own usage and only kept the good ones from dozens of z's which he dismantled over his lifetime) and now i got all the "leftover" replated bolts. But you also will find a bunch of really good rubber pieces. and some NOS parts now and then scattered in. These plastic parts and wiring from the ventilation / heating system will definitely be handy. they're in excellent condition. If you look closely you also find some parts which are from later generation Z or ZX cars, but the most is from the 240Z as far as i can see. Plenty of replated stuff. I have to double check if those are really from the 240Z, but nevertheless, they're a set of NOS factory decoration stripe decals. I won't use them, so will definitely put them up for sale, once i have confirmed what car they're for. Again, multiple kilocrams of Nissan Z and ZX bolts and washers. i'm sure this will come in handy when something is missing 🙂 I have a box where i collect my stuff for replating. but now many of that is already available freshly plated, like the hood holder, shown below. The dull gold one is one that a previous owner painted and would have needed a blasing / Sanding and replating, while the one below is now already freshly refurbished. Overall i will need some time to figure out which parts are usable for my car and which not, but the parts that fit my car are definitely worth the price Oh and i just spent some money in Japan for some really, really cool parts, and as soon as the sea-freight shipment arrives here in probably 2-3 months, i will be able to show you more. Also have a few smaller orders open, and some work happening soon with my EK9. so expect plenty of updates in the near future on this very page.

Make sure the fuel level in the tank isn't too high. How to test: Turn the key to ON. Use a piece of wire to short to the terminals at the sending unit while someone watches the gauge. The gauge should go up. Remove the wire after testing, keeping in mind that the gauge probably won't respond too quickly. If the gauge does not respond in test 1, leave the key in ON. Use a voltmeter to measure voltage to ground at the yellow terminal. The voltage should be changing a lot. If it's not, it could be the gauge, but more on that later. If the gauge moved in test 1, pull out the sending unit. Measure resistance between the two terminals while moving the float. If the resistance doesn't change, you have a bad sending unit. If test 2 failed, double check at the body harness/dash harness interface. Find the yellow wire and test voltage to ground on the dash harness side with the key in ON. Good luck and report back on the results. If you don't understand the tests as I laid out, let me know.

Wilkommen auch! Your point reminds me of years back when little was known about the Vintage Z program causing me to start a conversation and collect research information. It grew to a lengthy conversation and, eventually, I wrote a dissertation about the program. I would love to talk about when the Goertz myth began and by whom. If not for entertainment! We all know it's a myth, that Goertz had little to nothing to do with the design which makes the conversation entertaining to me. Go for it! "hook-nosed aristocrat" Ha, ha, ha, - great!

The full-length bulb-shaped seal is my own invention 12 years ago. I did not like the OE-style side seals just as you don't. I sent them back to MSA and purchased a second top seal and used sections of it as side seals to get a full coverage with a bulb-shape seal. Look closely at my pic and you will see the two ends butted together.

Hello together, so far I've only been a silent reader here and haven't contributed much to the community yet. I would like to change that. I myself have had 4 Zs, own a Cherry E10 van and have been infected with this virus for a very long time through my family (we have been driving Nissan/Datsun since the 70s). That's why I also founded the German platform www.datsun-autowerk.com. One big task was to describe the Goertz story a bit better and in detail (www.graf-goertz.de) . I learned a lot from this forum and talked to Alan and Carl. One thing in particular interested me: How early did the newspapers start telling this fairy tale? I came to the following sources: USA: Car&Driver in 1978 (full article: https://datsun-autowerk.com/dokumente/zeitungsartikel-car-driver-november-usa-1978) UK: Car magazine in 1970 And Germany? In the land of the count? So far this was rather unknown. However, I found two newspapers from 1974 in my archives that report on the 240Z and, according to my research, mention Goertz for the first time. I'd like to show you photos of them - I think others will be interested, too. But if you know any other German and/or European sources before 1974, I would be very happy for photos of them! Many greetings, Florian auto motor und sport - 01 1974 "Für das Styling des 240Z ist Graf Goertz verantwortlich – jener hakennasige Adelige, der in den fünfziger Jahren den BMW 507 zeichnete." "Count Goertz is responsible for the styling of the 240Z - the hook-nosed aristocrat who designed the BMW 507 in the 1950s." Full article: https://datsun-autowerk.com/dokumente/zeitungsartikel-auto-motor-und-sport-02-1974-de rallye racing – 02 1974 "Schöpfer dieses ganz und gar unjapanisch aussehenden Autos ist der Deutsche AIbrecht Graf Goertz, ein Industrie-Designer. Er lieferte den Karosserieentwurf für diesen erstmals 1969 vorgestellten Sportwagen." "The creator of this entirely un-Japanese looking car is the German AIbrecht Graf Goertz, an industrial designer. He provided the body design for this sports car first introduced in 1969." Full article: https://datsun-autowerk.com/dokumente/zeitungsartikel-rallye-racing-02-1973-de-gewonnen-im-k-o-system-ein-italiener-aus-tokyo

If it helps here is a link to a recent discussion where I shared a hi-res TIF file of the FSM chassis drawing above. Hopefully it might reduce strain on your body guy's eyes.

Well, that's depressing.

3D test printed. Now off to Cnc cut.

Yeah, you're gonna have to want it. It is a pretty car though. I would have to have a lot of money to be comfortable driving that car around. I know many high end cars really don't get driven much but cars typically like to be driven at least some...

You're not going to like the actual fix: There are adjusters on the back of the gauge for both low and high ends of the needle. Ya, back of the gauge - so getting your fuel gauge to actually represent something close to the amount of fuel in the tank would require removal of the gauge. Then you need to empty the tank and set the "E". Then you have to fill the tank and set the "F". Then you have to reinstall the gauge. In 10-20 years you'll have to do it again because the resistance of your wire and connectors will have changed... And that's why my fuel gauge shows 7/8 full when absolutely brimming with fuel and WAY to the left of "E" when my fuel pump starts sucking air.

To add: I'd venture to say that most designers are influenced by other designs and designers. Take as an example Gandini/Guigaro and the Miura. There are only so many unique ideas out there, and if someone claims the S30 is a derivative work, they could at least acknowledge that the S30 designers picked some great designs to be influenced by. Imagine if they had picked a VW bus, or a Renault 2CV as their styling cues. Many enthusiasts who spot an S30Z seem to know exactly what it is, and don't say, "Hey, what is that- a Jaguar?" In that sense, I'd put forth that the S30 design can be categorized as having staying power on its own merit. A automotive journalist friend of mine has traced many such rumors back to a single article-of-origin. It's very common, and speaks mostly to the laziness of some writers, who perpetuate the rumors with their own "articles-from-a-prior-article" [EDIT: HA! - an even more clear-cut case of "derivative work"]. Even today, I see articles crediting Goertz with designing the Toyota 2000GT, long after stories of any "involvement" on his part have been debunked.

143,000 Euros equates to $157,500.

As the float rises, the resistance drops. If you are sure the sending unit is registering low, you could bend the arm down on the sending unit. I would go slow on that, though.

Hi Florian, and welcome. Well, for sure it had to come out of Goertz' mouth first. Apparently he was telling anybody who would listen that *he* had 'designed' the Z as soon as it debuted. We can even see him hanging around the car in photos from the 4/70 New York International Auto Show. Networking and hustling... From the Feb '74 Rallye Racing article: "The creator of this entirely un-Japanese looking car is the German AIbrecht Graf Goertz, an industrial designer. He provided the body design for this sports car first introduced in 1969." Coincidentally, I came across a similar "un-Japanese" quote earlier this week in a YouTube clip. But what does it actually mean? If the styling of the S30-series Z is "un-Japanese", then what does a 'Japanese' car look like? There has to be a thesis for their stated anti-thesis. The quote I saw came from somebody who was convinced it was Goertz' creation. We know it wasn't, so I wonder if knowing that would make it any more - or less - "un-Japanese" to his eye? At the very least it is a stupid thing to say, at worst it verges on xenophobia. Underestimation of Japan and the Japanese can often be sniffed between the lines in that period, and that will - in my opinion - have bolstered Goertz and his rather tall stories. The inference is... the Japanese didn't do it. And not only that, the Japanese couldn't have done it even if they wanted to. Sorry, I don't think I can help with any earlier sightings of Goertzlore than the 1970 CAR Magazine example, but thanks for bringing the topic up again and allowing me to stick another pin into my Goertz voodoo doll.

One of the cars is for sale: https://suchen.mobile.de/fahrzeuge/details.html?id=366060965&damageUnrepaired=ALSO_DAMAGE_UNREPAIRED&isSearchRequest=true&makeModelVariant1.modelDescription=datsun&makeModelVariant2.makeId=18700&maxFirstRegistrationDate=1984-12-31&pageNumber=4&scopeId=C&sortOption.sortBy=relevance&fnai=next&searchId=a6a3af8f-b628-7e6d-a498-7a4d5baa2451&ref=srp

A few years back @rossiz grew tired of screwing around with his EFI and installed SUs on his 280. It ran great and no more tow trucks after the change until an accident brought another one.

WOW.. what a noise that thing makes, what was the rpm in the video? 2000, last seconds going to 3000 rpm? Does not sound very nice! Sounds more like you had a box of cutlery on top of a very shaky engine! sigh 🙊

Let some good shop do the engine !, and rebuild the head also properly, horrendous valve clatter ! A proper shop will replace these and polisch the cam, or replace the cam, this will stop the rattle with proper valve adjustement.: Datsun 240Z 260Z 280Z ZX 1970-83 L24 L26 L28 Valve Cam Rocker Arm | eBay My L24 is silent, no rattle can, it's a common myth L series rattle, but that's BS

Hi Martin, yes, this thread will wake dogs and open old wounds. But I don't want that. As I said, my only interest is to find the first publications in Germany and Europe. I think everything else has been said 100x anyway. 🙂

Yes they can be a pain in the ****. I think, when my 280zx injection starts to fail, ever.. i go to 2 simple carbs or Jenvey injection.. i think theire site is on www.jenvey.co.uk or jenvey.com? It's not cheap i think but you will get out of the troubles! I don't know how much experience you have with carbs but they are fairly easy to put on the L28, and we can always help you if you don't understand the service manual. get the 240z manual and take a look at those carbs, they work also on your L28.. AND no computing stuff!! A BIG plus!! AND... if you do it yourself, you later on understand the technology and can fix all the problems that may occur! Also be proud to have done it yourself.. I was affraid to fail at making my own steeringwheel.. well now look at the little pic on the left of this reply.. (Working since 2007!)

I just looked at the seals in the Precision Kit I bought from ZcarDepot. You comment above did not register until I saw that the lower seals they provide have a square profile, and no bulb. Where did you buy the bulb lower version? I don't care for these ones, they don't sit flat at all in the channel I was able to remove the hatch (with assistance from a neighbor), clean up the channels, prime & paint the upper outer channel, install the inner hatch seal, and the top outer seal. Had to get the hatch back on as it's going to rain overnight & tomorrow morning base coat & clear side channels Test fitting the hatch seal. took a couple tries to get the correct orientation. Also had to drop the seat belt reels to get the seal inner lip properly tucked under the plastic trim at the top sides overlap ridge that gets the glue had to notch the seal inner lip where the hatch brackets attach to the hatch opening Glued in with weatherstrip adhesive. With it in-situ, I worked the lower run first, then the left side, top & finally the right side. After that I put the upper side buffer blocks back in. Then I put the upper outer seal on. Hatch & louvres back on It will all have to come apart again at some point, I found that the hatch screws were not fully tight & the hinge was pressing into the rubber seal cup on the pass side, creating a rub hole on the inner side. I sincerely doubt that was the cause of the water in the hatch/cubby area, seems much more likely the lack of proper hatch sealing was the culprit.

Very unlikely they are related. Start a new thread on the fuel gauge, and I'll give you some tests to run.

Xray--I know what you mean. I used to have a '72 and used that adjustment to make the seat height fit me. Unfortunately the 280's don't have it. Just switching from the old, sagging 30 year old driver's seat foam to the passenger's seat foam has made a nice improvement. And now both seat bottoms have the "tuck" near the front of the seat--looks and feels much better than what I started with. Bob