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I've got my 9/76 n47 bare bones. I've removed the valve train but I'm sure the liners are good. I'd let it go for next to nothing. I can get some pics over the weekend after I remove the contents of my storage building. It's in the way back section. I've got 6 heads and 2 Zs.

Two common areas here. The starter switch as mentioned, or the deteriorated crimp and loose/dirty spade connector that attaches to the spade on the starter. I’ve cleaned the femaile spade on the end of the wire and still had this bad behavior, only to find out there was only one crusty strand of the wire still in the crimp. Remove the spade connector, strip back and clean the wire strands, and re-crimp to a new spade connector

I had a Datsun 510 with this issue years ago. When hot, I would turn the key and get a click noise from the starter. It would usually start after off/on with the ignition key several times. One time it would not and I tapped on the starter solenoid with a hammer, and then the car started. I replaced the starter solenoid and resolved the issue. But, I recommend trying what others above advised first.

Yeah, i have seen more than once overhere locally that people asked for a chassis s30.. it always made me laugh.. if i could get me one i would buy it! I got enough parts to make me another one! (On the other hand i have to much work already and feel to sick to work on another car so... don't offer me a chassis please! 🤒)

@Mark Maras @Patcon thanks for your opinions guys, appreciate the honesty and its reassuring you somewhat agree with my decision. I will wait and see where I stand financially and motivation wise before I decide to outsource the paint side, I like the idea of having them do the paint prep and then we come in and finish the actual painting. yep they have come to see the car, figure has 5 numbers, and was around what i was expecting Yeah I understand why some would abandon this chassis, and if a clean chassis came up i would certainly take it. but that's not going to happen, not where I am, unfinished projects are as rare as rocking horse $^!#. And at this point I think all chassis' deserve to be saved.

I can't seem to find the tutorial site, but it might be a good idea for you to scoot the board with the black sweeper track down a bit so that the sweeper arm is going over a fresh/flat/non-ground down track. All you do is loosen those 3 screws that hold the board to the afm housing and push the board down towards the bottom of the housing a tiny bit. Even the tiniest amount will get the contact points out of the carved area.

So i have outlined the whole plate, it does extend underneath and is on both sides

I still have and sell the repair kits for the breaker plates in the matchbox distributors

I still have and sell the repair kits

If you hear a click from the solenoid and you can see a change on the ammeter, then the problem is not in the ignition switch. It's in the starter. I had a similar problem where my starter was a rebuilt unit installed by my previous owner. Intermittent operation where it made a loud "CLICK", but wouldn't engage the starter motor. Found that the Bendix unit on the stater had been assembled incorrectly by the rebuild company. Been a number of years (and I didn't take any pics), but fading memory says they had installed a spring incorrectly. On the wrong side of something. After seeing the problem, I was surprised that it ever worked at all, even intermittently. Anyway, took it apart, relocated the spring, and it's been flawless since.

One of the best rock and roll groups ever, and FROM THE NETHERLANDS !!!!!! WATCH THIS !! It's a song from ... 1973 !! The band was playing from 1961 till 2021 !!! that's 60 years!! and look the energy that the drummer still has!! WOW!

I think I agree with Mark. Your car looks about what I expected post blasting from what we've seen up until now. I have done this several times now and there is always a bunch more metal work then you really expect. If you can afford to sub out the metal work, I would do it. I've been working on my current project Z for 12 years and have a good bit yet to go. I would encourage you to take the most direct path you can afford to a complete car that you can afford. Then go make some memories with your kids. If you can afford to sub the paint you might should do that too. It's much nicer to have a running car then a long term project. My 2 cents...

Here's the link in question: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56726-heater-core-alternative-escort-core-into-260280/

I've seen that before too. Contact cleaner or Deoxit ia also a good idea. Deoxit is good everywhere actually. https://caig.com/deoxit-d-series/

Yes, Joe in WI rebuilt both. He was super nice and did quality work. The heater core is an aftermarket one I got on Amazon. Was $38 To rebuild my old one I was quoted $450 so no thanks. This heater core requires minor mods to the heater box. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C7TTBM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title The lines needed to be cut and swaged. Not sure if this kit would work. I had a good friend from the forum so it for me. https://www.amazon.com/Copper-Swaging-Tool-Expander-Conditioner/dp/B0BGDV2WRL/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=swaging+tool&qid=1685735219&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExU0dDUUdIVDMxVDRFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjgwNDUwMkE3TTdZMUs2UVJFTCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTc4NjM4MUlFQTBDTjFOSzVYMyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX3Bob25lX3NlYXJjaF9tdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl As far as CaptainObvious’ link, I’ll need to search that when on a computer, on my phone right now.

I think raptor liner and 3M body Shutz are basically the same. To me the advantage to Raptor is the kit comes with its own sprayer that hooks to an air line.

Two similar problems that I've had are a loose pin in the ignition switch, unlikely in your case, and a loose ignition wire connection at the starter solenoid. The last one seems possible. In my case the spade connection seemed to fit well but was not making good electrical contact. I crimped it tighter with a pair of pliers and it was fixed. You could rig up a wire under the hood to supply power directly to the starter solenoid terminal (or use a wrench or screwdriver to jump from the hot cable) and try it when the problem happens. Split the problem in to two parts at the solenoid terminal.

Checking on an order status when I saw this. Pretty Cool. Belong to anyone you know?