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While at a car show took this photo of a really nice car in the parking lot of the hotel I was staying at. Ok maybe it’s my car.

Made some more progress on the heater box a couple of weekends ago Core Adding foam I don't really care for the white foam showing, but I guess it doesn't matter I stripped this and have since replated it. I have also softened the Oring in detergent, but haven't tested it yet

So lets show the real vs fakes. Here are the two business ends. Bosch on the left, fake on the right. The Bosch sensor has that graduated heat coloring, a zip tii holding the sheath material over the accordion boot. The fake is shiny polished. And has no markings. The Bosch sensor has the markings you'd expect Lastly the wiring length of Bosch sensor is much longer.

Looks like they sold out to the Holley conglomerate. It's the way the industry is going. Once the big guys own them the cost-cutting starts. Some of the smaller names seemed to benefit but I think that in the end everything averages out to mediocre. https://www.linkedin.com/company/aem-performance-electronics/ https://www.holley.com/logos/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holley_Performance_Products in 2018, Lincolnshire Equity IV, L.P. sold Holley to Sentinel Capital Partners who merged the company with its Driven Performance Brands

I like it . Like that little weight matters now Mart.. the car only has 150hp, today's 1.2 have that...

One time when I was assembling rear bearings, I went through all sorts of gyrations to prevent assembly force from going through any of the bearing balls. I've since decided that it wasn't worth the effort. On subsequent jobs, I've found that the press fit category of the outboard bearing race into the hub bore was a relatively light press fit and didn't require a lot of force. I'm assuming that Datsun designed it that way.

While you’re at it 🙂 - take your dremel tool with the biggest drum sander you have and clearance those areas I highlighted . Installing the larger exhaust valves will have a harder time breathing with the shrouding of the chamber . Etch a line from the HG and sand a nice radius to allow them valves to breathe . The engine will appreciate it .

I finally finished the distributor. The cap clips were tough to get plated properly. I did them 3 times. They will have to do... On another note, is there a source for the plug and boot for the module? The one I have is pretty ratty

I have been bitten several times now (you'd think I'd learn...) by oxygen sensors that fail in the first few hours of life. I typically buy the AEM 30-4110 kit from Amazon, good price, shows up quick, blah blah. After a few rapid sensor failures, and me telling AEM, and them quickly sending new sensors under warrantee, and me going and buying "real" (more real??) Bosch sensors, I now have some details to report so you can determine if you get similar "bad" sensors.

Item 50 in the FSM illustration (exhausts through the rotating chrome grille, Item 80). Cutting and then gluing the foam pieces around the duct's inside surfaces is finicky work. I can only assume that Nissan decided the benefit outweighed the additional manufacturing cost. You need to use open-cell foam for this location.

I agree. Time to find a better alternative. Even their pictures on the amazon page that show various shots of the equipment, shows one with the Bosch sensor, and one with the fake. During one of my discussions with AEM, they said “whatever is shown on our website is exactly what you get” and they had inconsistent pictures then as well. Just looking today they show a clearly non-bosch sensor FAE brand, and bosch depending on where you look. To be fair, I purchased their 30-0319 X series controller for use in my latest EFI project and it came with a Bosch sensor, and has been working great all summer. It’s the one that just has the little controller box inline, no gauge, and you use it’s CAN bus (or analog) output to feed into your ECU for AFR data. I have also purchased stand alone Bosch sensors from Amazon and gotten the real thing at a decent price. This is typically what I buy to replace the shitty AEM sensor.

AEM was a low cost alternative 15-20 yrs ago, they've been going down hill since then, their digital gauges are junk as well. I guess it's the Amazon business model, keep selling the same inferior stuff and most people will just throw it out and not complain.

I vote NO...😬 As it only ads weight to a car and i much more like the clean look of the bumpers even without those ugly "bumperettes" ... It does not belong on a "original" car as it was a typical usa dealer's addition.. But hey... it's your car, your decision! 🙂

Actually you have the simplest version of the ignition modules, with just one coil control circuit. You can try the swap in the engine bay, next to the coil, without doing anything to the factory module except unplugging it. Edit - actually disconnecting since you don't have a plug. EuroDat's mod is the slick, looks factory, swap method. But there are clues that you haven't mentioned. You've talked about RPM and the lazy tach needle the next day but haven't described what the needle is doing while it's running poorly. That's a good clue. If the needle is not steady and following engine speed correctly then that's a sign of spark problems. The other common electronics problem is the ECU solder joints. The test for that is to bang on the side of the ECU when things are acting up and see if there's a change.

So far I have not found the smoking gun, but I am really toying with replacing the coil and doing the GM HEI mod to bypass the TIU. However, I am a little hesitant to try to wire it up, as it seems the 1976 TIU is different than the one in EuroDat's excellent instructions, which is based on a 1977 model. I guess back in the 1970's and 1980's the changes from MY to MY were substantial instead of minor and cosmetic like they are today. As you noticed, the coil looks pretty well aged. I'm not sure if it is the original coil, but maybe it is a contributing factor. I think one of my next steps will be to test the coil according to the FSM. It is not hot to the touch after driving.

So while out for a walk the other day and guy stops me and asks “are you the person with the 240”. He says he has a front bumper bar that he bought from the local dealer when they were getting rid of old stock in 1975, so I looked at it and bought it. It has never been installed and the chrome is in awesome condition. There is still a part number tag on it. Now to decide if I want to install it as my car has the rear one already.

I had a bunch of parts plated professionally a while ago and noticed that the hardened ones came back very different than the non-hardened parts. And not in a good way. I'm guessing it comes down to the amount of carbon in the base steel. Seems the extra carbon makes them harder to plate? Those distributor spring clips would certainly be a higher carbon content than the typical hardware used on the Z.

Ok Thanks. I have one of the brackets and didn't know where it mounted.

Now this isn't anywhere near a proper port n polish but I thought I would smooth out the combustion chamber since the seats are coming out anyway, opened up the exhaust runners a bit so at least the ports match better. Still have to grind down the fresh air pipes in the manifold. Also clearenced the cylinder walls for the new intake valves. This car surprises me again and again how pristine most of the parts are, once you get the crud and minor rust off.

Starter spins quickly, battery fully charged. I do believe that the timing may need a slight amount of adjusting, not sure enough to keep it from starting. Maybe things will be different during cooler weather...

That would keep the fuel in the line at radiator temperature while the car sat. Probably around 150 F, guessing. Not good. Besides that, if the problem is after the car sits, it's most likely the float bowls boiling dry. Do you have an electric fuel pump or mechanical?

Finished the steering wheel. sanded the epoxy, primed & painted reinstalled the horn contacts & pad retaining ring Back in the car

Old wooden? No, no, skis were pretty sophisticated by 1969.

I liked the roof rack, a very cool item from that period.

So I set up the gauge with my power supply and a variable resistor. It's interesting to me to watch the power supply ammeter while I'm doing the demonstration.