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First drive in 13 months. There's so much great info in this forum. A lot of the credit for the milestone goes to you.

Really well put! Being in Financial Services, I see this all the time. Especially when the Private Equity and Venture Capitalists get stuck in. It’s all about ROE and ROCE rather than maintaining brand values / quality is an after thought. The R is return which by definition means profit and if you’re not raising prices or organic market share the you get it through cost cutting. All acquisitions must be seen to add synergistic value and better returns and the fastest way to make a CEO look good for their acquisition is to cut cost. “Cost of quality” AKA returns rarely makes it to shareholder reporting ;) Now then back on topic. I’m now worried !! Will report back when I get mine.

I'm not a fan of front bumper overriders. It makes the front of your Z look like an awkward teenager forced to wear headgear.

That's like an air bag. It might help but it adds weight.

Looks like they sold out to the Holley conglomerate. It's the way the industry is going. Once the big guys own them the cost-cutting starts. Some of the smaller names seemed to benefit but I think that in the end everything averages out to mediocre. https://www.linkedin.com/company/aem-performance-electronics/ https://www.holley.com/logos/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holley_Performance_Products in 2018, Lincolnshire Equity IV, L.P. sold Holley to Sentinel Capital Partners who merged the company with its Driven Performance Brands

I have been bitten several times now (you'd think I'd learn...) by oxygen sensors that fail in the first few hours of life. I typically buy the AEM 30-4110 kit from Amazon, good price, shows up quick, blah blah. After a few rapid sensor failures, and me telling AEM, and them quickly sending new sensors under warrantee, and me going and buying "real" (more real??) Bosch sensors, I now have some details to report so you can determine if you get similar "bad" sensors.

It's in my other reply. I did not use a return when I went all rubber. I wanted to do exactly what you are suggesting in order to keep the rail and the fuel return, but it wasn't needed in the end. I never even unbolted the rail. I simply abandoned it in place.

I ditched the rail completely and went all rubber. It was a game changer. I wanted to do a trial as you suggested in order to keep the steel rail isolated from the head, but I never took the time since the all rubber method worked so well. My plan was to isolate the brackets from the head with a good isolating material. The material used for carb spacers should work well if you can find something similar. You need to make sure the bolt is also isolated. 3D printed isolators would be a good proof of concept if you have any access to a printer. The spacers would be super simple to design.

In my opinion if the fuel return is working properly, the fuel will not get hot. The rail is bolted to the cylinder head on my '72. I think an electric pump that pushes fuel constantly through the carbs and then back to the tank via the return line would keep it from getting too hot. My 2 cents only. I'm no mechanic just an observant knuckle buster.

I made a set but they extended the crank out too far so I'm trying again. I think I can get it down to just over a 1/2 inch extension. These are hand milled so they take maybe an hour to create. I will likely become more efficient by the time I make 3 pair but please, no more requests.

Might find it in a bearing cross-reference somewhere. https://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/electrical/alternator/12v-60a https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bearing-ball~23120-65004.html This popped up on the Google. Read the description closely. 17 seems right. Has the Nissan number shown. https://smithcoelectric.com/products/5-4700-new-bearing-17mm-x-47mm-x-14mm-17x47x14

I like that coil on plug setup!

24hrs in a pan of Lye (sodium hydroxide) then a heat gun and a putty knife. I call them mud guards as that's all they are really doing.

AEM was a low cost alternative 15-20 yrs ago, they've been going down hill since then, their digital gauges are junk as well. I guess it's the Amazon business model, keep selling the same inferior stuff and most people will just throw it out and not complain.

I vote NO...😬 As it only ads weight to a car and i much more like the clean look of the bumpers even without those ugly "bumperettes" ... It does not belong on a "original" car as it was a typical usa dealer's addition.. But hey... it's your car, your decision! 🙂

I had issues with an AEM wideband myself . The O2 sensor was bad and the gauge would go full lean after running the engine for juts a minute . They send me another one and mad me cut the old one in half and send them a pic of it cut in half . Got another sensor - same freaking thing . This time they said they wouldn’t warranty it - only get one sensor . Googled all this and read of the many complaints of customers . Bought a different brand sensor and no issues

So lets show the real vs fakes. Here are the two business ends. Bosch on the left, fake on the right. The Bosch sensor has that graduated heat coloring, a zip tii holding the sheath material over the accordion boot. The fake is shiny polished. And has no markings. The Bosch sensor has the markings you'd expect Lastly the wiring length of Bosch sensor is much longer.