Leaderboard

Not a fun job, but got it just about wrapped up. I did have to drain the radiator, remove the lower hose, remove the alternator, and completely unbolt the large compressor bracket. It was a two person job to hold the compressor up while lining up all the bolt holes to re-attach the large steel bracket. Now that I've done it, I could do the job in half the time (isn't that always the way?). A fair amount of time was spent assessing how to tackle the job. Thanks for your input guys.

Reading through the whole thing - she gets to the POT input at post 57, after all kinds of futzing with the AFM. Seems like I should leave the AFM alone, and just do the POT. Important details, post#66 Edit - forgot to say - I wish RadioShack still existed - I used to get all my electronic projects odds & ends from them. I guess there just were not enough of us to keep them afloat 😞 EDIT - in post 57, she says: "Anyway, I ran upstairs and grabbed a 5k variable resistor and plugged it into the temp sensor connector. That let me tweak the mix manually. I found that the best mix was achieved in a warm engine with a resistance of 2,550 ohms, while the temp sensor's resistance had dropped to 240 ohms. Thus the mix could be richened about right by adding 2,310 ohms in series with the sensor. Interestingly, I think I remember the value of the previously added resistor being 2.2k, so apparently someone else had been down this road before me. I'm sure at one time it made the engine run very well, and then it got wonky again with age and deterioration." I only ordered a 1K pot, I'm wondering if I should get one that goes at least into the 2K range....

I would never do that to a 1970's car.. these early ones have/are made of, very thin steel and will bend like a banana.... Get yourself a later 280z chassis at least!

Thanks to @siteunseen for linking this in the bad AFM thread - bumping it so I don't have to search for it, as I'm going to follow her layout, wiring the pot at the ECU harness just have to recheck the two pins for the sensor - 13 & the ground - looks like 16, 17, 35 & 5 all tie together so I'm not sure it matters which I use Edit - never mind, forgot that this is placed in series, not parallel 🤪

The potentiometer I have is almost a toy now that it's corrected my below 2,500 rough running. When I'm on the interstate I can dial it around and run cooler temps at higher speeds and also better MPGs. It's a better than futzing with the radio knobs like the old days. I have a love/hate for my smartphone. Cost me $5 at Radio Shack years ago. Good read here...

Back to the duct work. Had to do this before the steering wheel & glovebox got back in. This is the diagram I found for the AC ducts Driver's side doesn't match the vent I bought listed as being the driver's side, and no way the one I bought will work on the DS. The one I bought listed as pass side is correct for the DS - I found two captive nuts set into the over steering column section of the dash frame. The duct is significantly shorter than the illustration, which threw me off while I was trying to figure out where either vent could fit. pass side ducts. I will have to mod the glovebox, as the AC duct sits into the glovebox area, due to the offset of the non-factory evaporator box width Trying to fit the vertical port on the right - just not going to work so I need to locate another horizontal vent bracket the the vent is supposed to attach to found a pic online of what the right side bracket for the vent should look like

Don’t forget to check the coupon tab and save an extra 15%😂😂

There was an error in my list. I can't remember when I found out. This one should work better: Amber 1157 LED (front turn signals) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CZ1GRJY

8hp more on a TR4? Thats what, 50% more horsepower?

I'll take a look sometime, but I hadn't registered any issues. Maybe I've just been of the mindset that I enjoy seeing the gauges at night.