Leaderboard

You should like the way they are stored Mart. They fit better in the bin.

Looks like I’ve found a nice doner peice for the left side inner fender extension? Where both bumper and headlight buckets attach. Will continue to for now avoiding the entire front clip replacement

Or you smell gas from another source, not the canister...

Any screw in the vicinity will probably be a match, they're not special. Look around under the dash and try a few.

I don't know. I did determine that the fuse holder I used was actually the version rated at 20A (based on the AWG) - I must have swapped out the 20A for a 30A fuse, so maybe the combined draw of all the consumers off the switch was just too much, it definitely overheated. So, I've re-wired the Ignition switch feed (from Shunt) via the Midi fuse block. Using a 40A fuse to match the value of the fusible link previously replaced with the inline blade that melted. Sectioned the supply plate Approx 3mm wga Red/Blue to match original ignition switch feed (Red-White) from shunt to 40A fuse MTA Midi fuses & power supply crimp terminals Replaced (White) feed wire from fuse block to Shunt, approx 3.5mm wga Brown - mine looked iffy. Sliced it open to look at where the wiring was kinked. Actually in better shape than the insulation appeared. I had bought some 7.8mm Female spades of the type used on the Datsun, thankfully. Used 60A Midi fuse - original link was 80a, according to chart. Feed line from main fuse block is 80A labelled so I don't forget what feeds what (have to figure out what the 3rd one is for) l

That's normal. The hose that leads to the gas tank is not directly connected to any vacuum source. Maybe try picturing it this way... The carbon canister is like a big open top bowl full of small rocks. No lid. And there are two tubes stuck deep into the bowl of rocks. One of those tubes goes to the intake manifold and the other tube goes to the gas tank. You can't ever pull a vacuum on the bowl because it's open on the top. There is no lid. There is a third tube involved, but that third tube doesn't go into the bowl at all. It just actuates a valve switch on the tube leading to the intake manifold. Not sure I'm helping or hurting at this point.

I can't find a good thread about reflowing the solder joints, even though I said there were threads on the forum about it. If you have a good eye and/or a magnifying glass you might be bale to see the cracked joints. Apparently they are on the line of 35 pins where the connector connects. This thread has a lot of good info and pictures, in general. The line of solder spots on the right -

I finally got around to sliding back under the car to take pictures.

Before abandoning the original metal work, I’m heating/dolly the metal to try and get back to original shape, first run through, smoothed out virtually all of the “marks” in the inner fender….. fortunately, I have access to a nice “tip of inner fender, “? The section that is adjacent to headlight “scoop”.