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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/22/2024 in all areas

  1. Here we go again, "series 1 series 2" . What is the production date? I promise this will be my last comment on this subject.
  2. Any chance that you have the pump installed backward? They typically have a check valve on the outlet end. Also, if you wire it backward it will spin backward. If it was mine, I would disconnect the hose from the tank and see if fuel flows freely. If it does, then reconnect it to the pump and disconnect the outlet side of the pump. Gravity should fill the pump and fuel should come out of the outlet of the pump through the check valve. That would be the priming step. Once it is full of liquid it should push it up to the filter and rail.
  3. Update on the wonder U-joint tool. Today I went to use it to do a Z driveshaft u-joint for the first time and much to my dismay, it is too big! By this I mean the U shape receiver area that you place over the end of the yoke (where the cups sit) slips right past the yoke. Barely. Useless… Dang. Unless you have a welder I just ran a couple of beads along the lip to make it smaller, and it worked just fine. Now I haven’t tried it on the half shafts to see if I made it too small now, if I did, I suppose I’ll have to get another 10105. Oh well
  4. Which pump did you get? You ID'ed the old one but not the new one. There's no reason to start the engine to get the pump to work. It will flow fuel all day if battery power is supplied. You can do that by removing the yellow wire at the starter solenoid and turning the key to start, or by taking the cover off of the AFM and moving the weight off of the fuel pump contact lever with the key on.
  5. Deal breaker. That'll eliminate the 'Serious Collectors' (TM). 🙃
  6. No question this is a very very nice example. Still….this is a different market today. First - it is NOT a Series I example. Won’t bring Series I money. The question is how much will the non-original items on this 240Z hurt it. Fog Lights - holes in the lower splash panel Head Light Covers - holes in the fiberglass nacelles Ash Tray modified Faded carpet in the rear deck Electric Fans at the Radiator (plus wiring and relays) Wrong Fuel Pump Wrong hose clamps on the fuel lines Wrong Fuel Filter Missing Battery Cover Clutch Master Cylinder non-original Non original muffler Spark Plug Wires??? Should be original with this mileage but can’t tell
  7. I don't think it's getting anywhere near $100k this time. Liquidity has been sucked out of markets and all classic car prices are down. I wouldn't be listing without a reserve in this market.
  8. Actually you have the simplest version of the ignition modules, with just one coil control circuit. You can try the swap in the engine bay, next to the coil, without doing anything to the factory module except unplugging it. Edit - actually disconnecting since you don't have a plug. EuroDat's mod is the slick, looks factory, swap method. But there are clues that you haven't mentioned. You've talked about RPM and the lazy tach needle the next day but haven't described what the needle is doing while it's running poorly. That's a good clue. If the needle is not steady and following engine speed correctly then that's a sign of spark problems. The other common electronics problem is the ECU solder joints. The test for that is to bang on the side of the ECU when things are acting up and see if there's a change.
  9. Hell of a day today. Left home with the Mrs. at 9am to head upstate for the annual Volvo car meet. We got about 30miles north & then the pickup died. I tried to fix it, but there was no spark & I had no parts to fix it on the spot. SO, we got towed back home around noon. I still wanted to get up to Ithaca for the meet, so repacked the C30 & left on my own, the Mrs. had had it. I got about 2 hours or so into the drive & then this happened Single lane traffic through a construction zone, basically we were all on the shoulder. Section of roadway heaved, broke the Tesla in front of me, I moved over as far as I could without hitting the concrete divide, and got the broken wheel & a bent strut tube Just a little extra camber I put the space saver on it & drove the remaining 90 miles at 40-45mph. That was excruciating, but at least I made it, and ppl up here were able to source a strut tube, so I can change that tomorrow, if all goes well. I'll have to drive downstate on the space saver, which won't be fun, but at least I won't need to be towed all the way home.
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