Leaderboard

PRP has new (to me anyway) options to rebuild or replace your door belt moldings. WFP4410-70 kit with LH and RH rubbers only. Install on your exist WFP4411-70. LH and RH complete with SS strip with new rubber 70-72 WFP4411-73. LH and RH complete with SS strip with new rubber 73-78 Not sure what the difference would be….. Summit seems to have good pricing PRP.COM is $161 for 4411-70 vs $95 at Summit

Security. Usernames are published in each post. But email addresses are not. So, by moving to an email login this eliminates 50% of the information that hackers can use to try to get in. (other 50% is the password)

I have done a few, some with the brake vacuum connection on the end and some with it on the top. Once you weld up the holes, to make it look good you have to go with the polished look and if you fill material is not close to the same alloy as the tube you will always see them as they have a different shine.

Go all the way and remove the shaft mounts too, by using a throttle cable.

I did the same on balance tube for my 71. Grind the lumps off and had it welded up

Great product, great price, great service!

I have a small interference with my new headers and the intake manifolds. Has anyone else run into this? Here's my new shop helper! Already found the tools and the shiny exhaust. 😉

Typical? I'm amazed how you can reach into someone's mind a read their most inner thoughts. My comment was not predicated on the accuracy of the document itself, but simply how an offer to the Z community from a long time member was treated. It is apparent that tact is not your strong suit. Mike has built a business and spent much time and effort creating reproduction parts to keep our Z cars on the road. The fruits of his labor are actually tangible, and are not just S30 esoteric factoids meant to bloviate.

So I debated trying this or not. I'm glad I did though So the water tubes in the intake manifolds have been there for 50 years; steel in aluminum. They are 19mm (3/4") I don't have a flare nut wrench that large. But I took the propane torch to it and they came out! This is the end of the water tube. There is a rubber o ring that goes against a conical seat at the bottom of the hole. Then I used the induction heater to try to get the nuts off the pipe They came off which was great! That tool is really impressive in what you can get apart. Then I bead blasted these parts I'm glad that I did because the tube has a pin hole. I believe this would leak because the seal is a the bottom of the nut at the seat. This pinhole would be inside the nut. So I found a piece of tubing. I couldn't find anything on Amazon but I found some 10mm OD 8mm ID tubing on Ebay. So I have 20" of that coming. I will try to replate all of this in the next few weeks I pulled the studs out of the manifolds too. And this is what I had I degreased then and put them into the bead blasting cabinet. After the first pass, I turned the air pressure down to about 60psi and blasted them again. This is how they came out. I'm really pleased they look this good! Then I treated them with Sharkhide. Before and after