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Well I got my prototypes in for my passive cooling on my Efi hardware throttles! These will be between the heat shield and the throttle bodies. Also it will be a nice and clean way to run the return fuel.

I am sure I will build a motor at some point and may go turbo at some point. It will probably have 300-350HP at some point in the future. We have some great mountain roads near us and the stock brakes don't like those long twisty downhill sections. They would always get hot and smell. These should stay nice and cool no matter how hard I push! 😉

Remember that the FPR should maintain a 36.3 PSI difference (balance) between the fuel pressure and manifold pressure. Your manifold pressure (vacuum) is lower at idle and under low load so fuel pressure is that much lower than 36.3 PSI. (at 10 PSI of vacuum the FPR should be maintaining about 26.3 PSI on the fuel) At heavy load the manifold pressure decreases, so to balance, the fuel pressure increases. (so, at 1 or 2 PSI vacuum, the FPR should be keeping fuel pressure at 35.3 or 34.3 ish respectively) Once you go to a positive manifold pressure (boost) the FPR should add that positive value to the fuel pressure. Ask me how I know. 🤭 This may not apply but it's always something to consider. A long time ago as an apprentice plumber I learned about fluid pressure and rate of flow. Two pipes: 1/8" and 1/2" - they can have the same fluid pressure applied, but the 1/2" pipe will always be able to deliver a higher volume of fluid. This may apply IF there is an unseen obstruction inside the fuel pipe or tubing. Pressure may read at an appropriate value but the system may not be able to deliver the volume needed at certain times. The pressure will only show a decrease when the demand outstrips the ability to supply. (this happened to me as my fuel supply hardline was over 1/2 plugged with corrosion inside at a point near the firewall - difficult to diagnose and pinpoint)

Well if you want to play numbers I received a total of 3 door shells from RC. Of the three 2 had catastrophic problems with 2 critical mounting points. The first passengers door with the hinge hole in the wrong place and the drivers door with the latch holes in the wrong place. The drivers door also has the ledge being too wide so that the door panel won't go on. I do a ton of reverse engineering of castings in order to design new tooling. Customers come to me with a part to recreate and my first question is "what were the original tolerances on the item". If you don't know that then it really is a crap shoot. So let's talk about the door shells. Nissan designed the stampings, hole locations and assembly dimensions to fit within a certain criteria. Those three items need to work with the manufacturing tolerances of the window movement mechanism, the latching mechanism the body assembly tolerances etc, etc. If you don't have that data then you need to reverse engineer a large sampling of items over several production years to develop your own targets. Or you need to redesign the part to work in a more tolerant way. Max said he slotted mounting holes. The problem is if the mounting surfaces of the tracks are in the wrong plane all bets are off. If you look at how Nissan designed the window mechanism they are relying heavily on the mount surfaces to be in the right place. Think about the overall size of the door and how just one of the mounting surfaces being slightly off could affect things. Hats off to whomever funded the stamping dies for taking the chance on this but whomever is responsible for engineering the actual assembly needs a spanking. If I was consulting on this project I would have strongly recommended using overseas for what they do best, in this case cheap stampings, and then onshore the components for assembly where you have much more control. And again I would have designed the door shell stamping to be more forgiving. So if I'm so smart why didn't I have the good sense to fully assemble the doors before I ever thought about painting them:) Sigh.

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You keep using the term "skin". In common usage, the term "skin" refers to just the outer layer of sheetmetal which is stretched over the door frame pressing. Nissan used to supply replacement door 'skins' (which they called Door Out"/outer, and also whole door units. They are two different things. What's being discussed here are not just door 'skins', but complete replacement door units.

Thanks guys. Just found the post someone made showing the tool they made to trip the catch. Should have searched harder here. Thanks for your responses.

Probably the best bet is take it somewhere and put it on a lift and go from there. Numerous articles here.