Leaderboard

Nope. Genuine question. More likely you. I’ve never been to Daytona.

Convenience is correct, it looks like spellchecker got a hold of the word and decided on what I meant.

I took the block and head to the machine shop today. The cylinders look pretty smooth with very little ridge on top, so I am hoping that we just need to do a hone on the cylinders so we can keep the standard size pistons. That way we just replace bearings and rings. The head looked to be in good shape and I am guessing that it has had work done on it previously. The head gasket was a standard Fel-Pro, so the head has obviously been off before. Machine shop will look the head over and fix as needed. Also, looks like the crank has been balanced previously due to the holes and light shaving on the crank arms. Will have the machine shop confirm. Pics below

Yep, still available. ZCD's shipping charge is what makes me avoid them if I can. I know shipping rates are high but they make a little extra. IMHO In my situation, I order local and pick it up for $5 in gas.

Finally had a chance to take a friend's 240Z hood latch apart and measure the length of the cable from the cover at the latch end, to the cable stop at the end towards the latch. For those interested, the measure should be 1-1/8". Mine is now back together and the release and lock are working great.

So over Thanksgiving when Cody and I were working on the car. We were trying to get it ready for startup. Maybe Christmas, we'll see. We were working on getting the alternator on. Well when you change to the 240z water pump and damper that means the alternator doesn't line up anymore... 😞 So we got out the cut off wheels I cut this off the front and dressed it out and move d it to the rear with a washer. In the future we might make a more elegant solution, but for now it works Another problem we created with the 240z water pump is the 510 fan doesn't fit anymore and there's not enough room for a 240z setup. So these ribs inside the fan prevent it from fitting down against the pulley So more air tools I dressed them up nicely and lightly bead blasted it. I had to make the center hole larger by free-handing it. I also had to add 4 new bolts holes because the bolt pattern is different I had to order longer studs from BelMetric too... Two forward, one back... 😉

I have another thread documenting the Wilwood rear brake install I did. In this thread I am going to document the front disc install. I am using the Wilwood Dynalights. The discs are the same front and back but the swept area of the pad is different. The front discs have also been drilled to match the bolt pattern of the hub. The new front calipers are very light. All aluminum. Here it is compared to the Toyota caliper Here is the starting point for my front brakes. I did have the Toyota caliper on and the dust shields have been trimmed Hub has to come off Then the dust shield needs to come off Then remove the bolts from the hub and swap rotors A brass hammer might be helpful to get every thing lined up and seated Everything on the Wilwoods seems to be SAE so there are two different bolts in the kit. The two metric bolts for bolting the adapter to the strut ears and the two SAE bolts for attaching the caliper to the adapter plate The Silvermine logo appears to face outward on these adapters When I first bolted this side up, it bound up against the rotor. So I had to add some washers to space it back a little bit. The metric bolts have plenty of length so that wasn't an issue. I didn't have any pretty washers to use so I used these. Also I had to trim the upper washer because the OD was too large to center over the hole All together It is easier to add the washers when installing the adapter if you know you'll need to I guess you could install it with washers and you don't need them you can drop them out. It's a lot easier to drop them out than get them in and centered over the bolts. This install is on an early series one car. Your mileage might vary...

Would that be the “Dodger” Himself?

Thanks Patcon. Appreciate your intentions🙂

I completely understand, Everyone's situation is different. BMW is a lot farther for me too. Sometimes paying a little more works better for the connivence.

I am thinking I will remove the incoming line from the rear brake device and route it straight into the brass union I bought a R200 flange for the driveshaft from Zcardepot. Looks like it will work good. Here it is next to the old flange I also bought a new rear diff mount. I suspect these are available straight from Nissan

Glad to decipher the horns date code to read S 10. October 69. Hoping that’s the real deal..