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So thinking about it a little (trying to add a little value to your original question), there is no way the factory taped every one of those hubcaps before they sprayed them. I'm guessing they had some sort of mask(s) they laid over the top before they applied the paint. Have you got a spare hubcap that you would be willing to cut apart to use as a mask? You could carefully cut away most of the metal and leave yourself seven masks. One for each of the triangle holes, and two large rings. Lay them on top of your unpainted hubcap and spray it. Take the metal masks off, and your're done. Not the easiest thing, but if you've got a rusty spare that you would be willing to destroy, it might be easier than taping four of them!

Cap't. Attached are two pics - one that I have had chromed then masked, and the other as it came off a parts donor. I got one set off a '71 and the other a '73. No idea what mixing and mingling in the 40+ years prior, but yes they are both quite different from the ones we've seen on other posts. Doing my best to add to confusion!

Crossman Pellet gun back in the day.

Back on the C30 - New clutch master arrived yesterday - normally only takes 2 days via USPS from CT, this one took over a week. Anyway, the weather has not been conducive to working outside, either way too cold or snowing. Today it was sunny & 34º, so I took advantage of that to put the car back together Sold under Sachs brand - unit is the same manufacturer as originally installed - FTE - just with metal rod instead of the plastic mine had test fit in painted bracket So, the bracket & MC cannot be installed as one, even without the pedal in play. I had to insert the MC in the firewall opening first, then position the pedal bracket, then set/lock the MC in the bracket. Left side mount points are tricky to access Pedal set in bracket Link rod bushing set into pedal With that located, I attached the hydraulic line, feed tube & switch connector Immobilizer switch harness routed Over-center mechanism in place - I used a tie wrap to hold the spring compressed, then set the mechanism & cut the tie wrap Then I bled the clutch - had to remove the airbox, and the rad hose/engine harness support bracket to access the bleeder With the bleeder valve open, I drop the tube into a container of brake fluid & stroke the pedal until there is resistance, checking the fluid level & topping it off after a few strokes. After that I re-installed the steering column & shroud, under dash panelling, instrument cluster, surround, steering wheel & airbag.Finally, I forgot to remove the set screw I used to locate the airbag contact reel spring, so I just cut it short. Not going to hurt anything as is.