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I am very tired and sore. What I thought was going to be a three day job ended up being two weeks… because I am a perfectionist. 😕 The installation of the left door window was no big deal, but I wanted the glass to be as clear as I could get it, so I spent six (!) days working the scratches out of what was a B+ window when I pulled it out of a wrecked car a year ago. I used a combination of diamond polishing pads and cerium oxide, which works well, but there is a learning curve. The right side should only take a day now that I know what I’m doing. It’s now a solid A grade, but I came a little too close to the Nissan etching, so that’s less crisp than it should be. All told there are two 1/4” scratches and some light swirls that I couldn’t get out without risking distorting the glass. Not bad. Acceptable I guess. Installation was not hard, although I should have brought a second set of hands. I have some alignment issues with the rear corner sticking out and not sliding back enough without help from outside, but I don’t feel like dealing with that right now. New seals, new hardware, and tons of grease.

I’ve piddled around with SCCA in the ITS class since 2001… with a 240z Still competitive on most tight tracks. Converting to EP class as a 260. The other stuff is just a collection of this and that….had 37zs in my backyard at one time….. parsed down to a dozen or so now. A Z was my first car I purchased at 17 in 1982, Diseazd with them every since!!

Thanks!!! I love seeing other Zs and what has been done in the past, for inspiration of sorts to keep effort at high level…… Bumping into a fellow car/zguy from Greenville, sc “Clay Beacham” has triggered interest on my part to finally work on on few zs I’ve drug home over the last 35 years. I will post some pictures of progress on this car as well as the other 4 I’ll be working on. Your welcome to drop by anytime shops a mess. My oldest son claims I’m a prime candidate for adderall, but it’s awful late in livfe to try a different personality!! David

I worked on the car for a lot of hours today. I adjusted the brake pedal the proper way: I ran the bump stop all the way in, and threaded the rod into the clevis until I had the right measurement from the firewall/floor to the top surface of the pedal pad. That was 206 mm. Then I threaded the bump stop out until it moved the pedal down 3 mm. Net was 203 mm. Then I adjusted the clutch pedal the same way, setting it even with the brake pedal. I took the car for a short drive. The brakes and clutch work very nicely. When I got back, I put the car on the lift and check all around for leaks. The temperature sender nut needed to be tightened. I was getting some weeping there. The differential fill plug needed to be tightened - there was a drip there as well. The valve cover bolts also needed to be tightened. Some oil was making its way down the right side of the engine at the back corner. I also had a slight exhaust leak at one of the joints, so I tightened all the exhaust clamps. I had not tightened a couple of the clamp sufficiently. Lastly, I painted the tail light finishing panels and installed them. I used the BFM0360 Ford Dark Shadow grey (and matte clear). Comparing it to my NOS license light, the Dupli-color paint looks a bit lighter than the original color, but it is reasonably close.

37 Zs! Now I can tell my wife I don't really have that many!! 🤣 I bought my first car, a black 240z in 1986 at 17 y.o. too!

Looks like the answer is yes. I found this online: Georgia Code Section 40-2-41.1(b): So requirements are: You register like normal. $20/year. You get the current Georgia license plate. You keep the current Georgia license plate in the vehicle but need not display it from the rear. The historical license plate must be within 4 years of the model year, so if it's a 1985, then you can run a plate from 1981-1989.

Both sanding/polishing of the glass and installation in the door, dealing with alignment issues are things I did only months back. Getting scratches out of glass requires a lot of time and hard work. There are some tricks to follow for alignment. If I recall correctly, I found that getting the front sash aligned and secured first, while leaving the nuts on the back one loose was best. The back one wanted to be in a more horizontal orientation. I believe that one primarily sets how level the window is in the door - in relation to the top of the window frame. I was able to get the top edge of the window to align in parallel with the top part of the door frame. The front sash controls the fore and aft location of the window, but it also determines the path (angle of travel inside the door) the front of the window follows when going up and going down. For whatever reason, I found that I had to install a couple of thin washers between the sash and the metal inner door structure (on the left door only). That moved the front of the window outwards just a touch and fixed my alignment problems.

My son thinks I need Adderall too…….Good luck with the restorations…..like I said, the most satisfying part of owning an early Z.

Pulled out this car after a long slumber. I purchased over 20 years ago in Orlando area from original purchaser family. Windshield shows last inspection in April 1981… Original windshield, 4 side windows dated 12/69. Hatch glass 3/70. Interior all there. Hoping to do a light refresh/clean of interior,drop the suspension, clean and paint. Engine needs to be rebuilt….”matching numbers”. Dog legs being replaced small rust area under drivers seat between alignment “flap” from rear body and floor 2”x2”. Green Tan…. My favorite combo… Wet blasting hood revealed surprisingly…. A virtually perfect hood..!!!!

That orange is a peach, it's a state symbol maybe even the state fruit although Governor Kemp is pretty fruity.

@Broman This is from Humble's restore book. Ditzler Duracryl DDL 2862 Argent with quite a bit of suede additive 1 pint DDL 200 units DX265 300 units DX 264 Thin 100-150% and spray fairly dry Regulate air pressure to the high side https://www.xenonzcar.com/s30/hubcaprefinishing.html Towards the end you'll see a hyper link about the paint as "recipe"

My body and paint guy (Chuck’s Frame Shop) has been in the frame and paint biz for 50 years. He is a perfectionist with all of the right gadgets. I don’t know what that particular frame alignment device is, but he had a blueprint of the 240Z specs taped to the door when installing the new clip. He said the finished product was perfect to spec…..probably better than original.