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Haha!! So we're gonna be rebuilding your engine in the parking lot at zcon!! I call dibs on working on the timing chain and stuff!

I have friends and tools local in TN. So if I can get there I should be good. 😉

That turd has to get you both TO and BACK from zcon remember! Unless you're thinking that once you make it, you'll just stay there!

I will award you a big chocolate chip cookie for all the hard work we've read about and seen pictures of, turd looking valve cover deduction = 1 chocolate chip. There's a quart of milk waiting at the finish line.

The fuel pressure on the outlet side of the pump should not be affected by the routing of that hose. Assuming, of course, you didn't kink anything. I wonder if maybe you've got air in that line which somehow can't get purged out because of the routing. Not sure if that's a thing, but maybe something to think about and look into?

When my nozzles started sticking in the down position, I removed the carbs and found the #1 bar warped. The ends were not parallel to their attachment points. A slight twist with two pairs of pliers on the bar realigned the ends of bar #1 with their mounting points. That ended the problem with the nozzles.

Nah, the only things I replaced were my 20 year old hoses

I am installing their interior kit instead of vinyl and if I recover the seats I will use their kit. I'm not too concerned about wearing through the color. Pretty much all of my cars have leather and I've never worn a seat out. And I love the smell of real leather!

It is my understanding that the bar #1 that is connected to the bottom of the jet need to be bent to make the needles not stick. Although I am not totally certain which way to bend it to prevent binding when the choke is applied

Yeah that must be frustrating.. i didn't do that a single time with the restore from my 280zx... i drove home after the MOT (APK overhere) and drove very carefully.. i was afraid i hit the carport so i drove it more to one side.. the side the goldwing was standing... i put a dent in my 280 with the chrome bumpers of the cases on the goldwing! Pfff.. sigh.. 😀 You had to take out the headlights.. that was easy.. my 280zx .. i bought it with a 2nd windscreen in it.. it had a little crack in the window.. nothing bad.. repair it later after reinstall.. later i saw that it had split the window while in storage.. (2) then i bought one second hand, the girlfriend of my first painter broke it while cleaning her house but said later i have never seen a windscreen here (I can show you the date i brought it to them in my log! (3) then i installed a new one and a college from the painter just let it hit the cowl somewhere i had not seen it but when installed it splitted on any points in the left down corner! (4) !! So... my 280zx has it's 5th !! windscreen.. and.. if someone try's to brake it i'm losing it.. i probably get my hunting rifle out and.... you guessed it!! So don't be annoid/ frustrated.. it comes with the trade.. Oh.. and Please!! ...clean that valvecover.. it looks like a turd in that beautiful enginecompartment!!!!!

Here's a pic I hoovered from the web some time ago. Not my car:

Save them in case your "gas pedal" knee gives out.😎

In response to questions and requests on how to recover Z car seats I thought I would put together a post outlining my experience when recovering the driver seat in my ’72 240z. The job took me around 8 hours from start to finish but I worked in 1 or 2 hour increments. Stretching and fitting the covers is the hardest part and will give your hands, arms, and shoulders a workout. This is a job that anyone can do and is a worthwhile job to tackle yourself as many shops can charge $300 - $500 in labor to recover a single seat. The key is to take your time and walk away if you get frustrated or tired and constantly check your work to see how everything is fitting. If you are not happy with how things are looking, stop where you at and see what you need to do to correct the issue. *Please note, I am not an expert or professional of any kind and this is the first seat I have ever recovered. This is written as a guide and your situation may be different. I am not responsible for any damage or injuries caused by someone taking on this project. If you doubt your skills or capabilities in doing this job please contact a professional. Materials Synthetic Leather Seat Covers from Ebay - $200 shipped to my door New Seat Foam Sets from Classic Datsun - $310 shipped to my door 100pk of hog rings from Amazon - $7 shipped to my door Semi-gloss black Krylon spray paint - $6 at parts store 15ft roll 1/4 inch thick foam - $15 at local fabric store 3M Heavy Duty Spray Adhesive - $8 from Home Depot Tools KD-Tools Hog Ring Pliers 2pk, straight and 45 degree from Amazon - $36.81 (These are totally worth the money and very well made) Needle Nose Pliers Traditional Pliers Channel Lock Pliers Heavy duty wire cutters Assortment of flat head screw drivers Assortment of Phillips head screw drivers Small hammer Socket Set Assortment of medium sized clamps Utility knife with new razor blade Pneumatic rotary tool with fine wire brush attachment Super Clean degreaser Paper towels Vacuum cleaner/Shop Vac Remove the seats from your car and move to a location that gives you plenty of space to work and offers some protection to the surface you will be working on since the seats have studs on the bottom. My living room with its plush carpet, TV, and air conditioning was the best spot for me. Assess the seat and if anything broken. If it is make appropriate plans to repair the broken parts. As you can see my seats were in a pretty sad state but were complete and functional. The foam had collapsed in the bottom cushion causing you to instantly sink about 6” or more once you sat in the seat. I could tell by the cover the seat had been recovered before due to the lack of vent holes and it did not match the passenger seat. Disassemble the seat by tilting the top cushion all the way forward. This will take some of the pressure off the bolts as you remove them since the right hinge is spring loaded. Take some time to inspect everything as you go along. It is also a good idea to take notes or pictures just in case you do not remember how everything goes back together. My seat was shedding its potato sack material in between the springs but for the most part all the hardware looked good. I started by disassembling the bottom cushion first. First you will need to slowly pry up the pointed tangs at the back of the cushion with a flat screw driver. This will reveal some more tangs that it covers up. Then gently pry up all the tangs around the perimeter of the cushion, pull the material up from around the tangs, and lift the seat and spring assembly out of the cushion. Inside the edge of the cover is a thick wire. Remove this wire if you can, you will need it later on.