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They defiantly are related. I received the same email notification. They warned me to disregard the expected delivery date. They said the A2Toys delivery date was always too optimistic. BTW, I bought two sets. I haven't installed them yet but they were much better than I expected. The weatherstrip and the welt strip both looked factory. The aftermarket is far too thick.

Maybe it's not the fuel system at all. The recent work there might be drawing too much attention. Failing fuel systems usually give a clue since the engine dies due to low pressure. There's usually sputtering and low power before shut-off. Your clues seem electrical . Since you have lots of time while waiting for things to cool down you should be able to get out a meter and/or some noid lights or test lights and check the things that need power and ground. Check for power at the coil, power at the injectors, injector activation when the engine is spinning, and spark. Narrow the possibilities down. If everything checks out then you'll have to consider the dreaded but not unheard of ECU failure. I've mentioned before in long past posts that I had a 78 ECU die on me while I was giving it a test run. Just died instantly, restarted, after a few seconds, let me drive another mile, then died again. I put the old 76 ECU back in and everything was fine. After that adventure I always carried a spare ECU behind the seat. The other common failure point is the ignition module. But you'll get pointed that way if you have no spark.

Glad to see you back @Racer X. I understand it’s been quite a journey for you. I hope you are doing well friend.

I figured. But it was worth a look!

Actually I need to refine the testing. With the battery disconnected... Remove the R wire from the relay and see if you have continuity between the R and WR wires. If you do, it might be that the combo switch is not opening the contacts. If #1 shows continuity, disconnect the wire going into the combo switch and re-test continuity between the R & WR wires. If you no longer have continuity, that implicates the combo switch. If you still have continuity, you have a wiring issue. If #1 shows no continuity, check for continuity between the B & S terminals with the R wire still disconnected. If you have continuity there, the relay has a problem.

So I did a little thinking and looking and I have a theory.... This time a little less knee-jerk. If the brake light only comes on in the LOCK position, my theory is that you plugged the connector onto the back of the ignition switch 180 degrees out of position. I don't have a harness here to see if that's physically possible or if things are mechanically keyed, but if there is no key, you might have done that? I admit, it would be unlike you to do something like that, but who knows... In a flurry of hurried activity, not lining up the unpopulated connector cavity and all that? And if you did, it can cause exactly what you described.

I'm not exactly sure how you wired it, but I think it should be something like this. (See below. It looks right.) S - 12VDC+ (This should be the R or RY wire from the fuse box) S1 - low beam ground at combo switch S2 - high beam ground at combo switch B - 12VDC+ fused L1 - low beam positive L2 - high beam positive Now, I took another look. It seems like that is how you wired it. So, I would disconnect the battery and look for continuity between the S & B terminals with your wires landed. If it is, then disconnect the WR or R wire and test again. If the relay checks out fine, move to the combo switch. Just my 2 cents.

Don't cut the choke cables. Loosen both cable attachment screws at the carbs. Push and pull the choke lever a few times. Is it easy or difficult to operate? If it's difficult, lube the cable and lever mechanism with oil. I pulled the carb end of the cables up, and sprayed WD 40 or CRC lube into the cable sheath ends and let gravity pull the lube down along the length of the cables. Then I looked to see if both nozzles were all the way up, pushed the choke knob forward and connected the cables to the carbs. Good luck and tell your Dad not to worry about the Canal.

Nope. I can't figure out what the issue is. Bad batch of OEM filters which are too thick? Something wrong with my air cleaner housing? I don't know.