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I don't think that that diagram is for a 1978. Pre-78 Nissan did have a water temperature switch for the dual point distributors. But 78 uses the single point distributor. And the EGR system uses a heat activated siwtch. The quickest way to narrow things down is to get the voltage measurements from the coil, both positive and negative posts (the coil circuit could be overheating and going open), and the injectors. If it cranks but doesn't start those two elements are most likely to be the cause. No spark or no fuel. Carry the meter and/or noid lights in the car. Measure voltages then insert a noid light if you have injector power. A bad PCM is still a possibility.

Nothing is sacred anymore.

I advise removing your phone number from posts. That only invites scammers and spammers to track you down.

Could be the neutral safety switch or the relay. I converted mine to manual and jumped the wires at the trans harness. If you find you need a relay I possibly still have mine if you can’t find one.

There is mention of a click when the key is turned, even when the starter does not engage. Can we get some clarification of the location of that click? In the original post, it was said "I just hear a click at the starter" and then later it was described as "click heard under the passenger side relay panel". Can we narrow that down to either a) at the starter itself, or b) over by the passengers feet?

This is a no crank situation when hot, on an automatic. Other than the obvious (wires, fuses, and connectors, etc) here are the components involved: Ignition switch Ignition relay Starter relay Inhibitor switch Starter The starter and ignition switch have been replaced recently. Doesn't guarantee that it's not the problem, but hopefully unlikely.

Maybe cleaner connections now. So more voltage reaches the gauge. So more heating?

No worries! That's great. I was going to suggest that. I did the same thing with one of my locks This should have the correct wafers https://www.ebay.com/itm/204248503359

240z hidden drive by wire actuator for my ITB setup. This is design number 4. This plan utilizes a Efi hardware actuator. The goal is the same length arm to the bell crank and distances from shafts and the rod. So the rod passes through the firewall evenly and doesn’t walk from left to right. This will mount to the pedal plate and the steering box mounts. So behind the firewall Prior designs walked too much in the hole and I don’t want that.

Are you on your flip phone again?

Phoned a friend! Haha!! Glad to help.

I certainly enjoy the obscure information you bring to the conversation, Alan.