Leaderboard

You have a Maxima N47 cylinder head on top of an L28 block. Maxima's had 2.4 liter blocks which would be stamped L24. A Maxima head on a L28 block raises the compression and runs better. I would guess you have the original block from 1975 which would be an N42 with dished pistons. That is not the head that came on that L28 block but you do have the parts for a good running car. Clean it out and get familiar with the car before worrying about the motor. You have a lot of reading to do. And to be clear, do not try and start the motor as it sits, in fact take the battery out of the car while you're working on getting things figured out. Running the fuel pump would be terrible this early.

Hi Site, Good news i found a 69 year old Camaro carburetor mechanic and competition racer. He drove the car and determined there is lack of fuel when accelerating at low rpms. Car shouldnt hesitate when releasing the gas pedal. He also noticed spark plug in cyl one is not burning correctly and lot of fuel on cylinder 4. Unfortunately he is living in Tampa and will not be back until 2 to 4 months so he can take care of the car. He wants to deal with these issues and do a leak down test before taking the head out.

Guys i had installed this ignition switch brand new 6-8 months ago and seems like after installing a new one today from Oriellys the car starts like a dream. In the process cleaned all grounds and wires and a new starter. Planning to keep this new one in. I really appreciate everyone's input. This one could had been a nightmare but at the end turned out to be the ignition switch.

I was kind of kidding. Didn't know that it was a thing. An odd name for a product, must be from way back. https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/wire-rope/aircraft-cable.html https://www.homedepot.com/p/KingChain-1-8-in-x-50-ft-Galvanized-Aircraft-Cable-Kit-with-Clips-and-Thimbles-7x19-Construction-504711/304086908

Careful with those exhaust bolts especially the one on the rear of the engine that mounts the hoist harness plate. You can snap a stud in a heart beat. Soak them thoroughly for a couple of days before attempting to remove the nuts.

Update for you: It is very possible the issue the entire time was bad gas. I drive it rarely and haven't added any gas to the low tank since I was expecting to have to disassemble the rear again - the last time gas was added was (I believe) mid-October when the hose originally blew. I took it out today and it was driving terribly as it always does when the red fuel light came on so I added only a couple gallons to it (again, since I was expecting to have to drain the tank) and the car woke up after about 30 seconds. The AFR numbers returned to where they used to be and its power was back. The car still smells like gasoline which is possibly due to me apparently using 3/8 hose instead of 5/16. The final test will be tomorrow morning when I try to start it and we'll see if it's still a chore or if we are really back in business - I will report back. If the issue really was bad gas all along, I will be incredibly humiliated. On the road fuel pressure numbers: 30 at idle, 34-36 at WOT, 28 during engine braking AFR numbers: 13.8-14.2 idle, cruise 14.7, WOT 12.8 -chase

Odd. Where did you get the switch? I wonder if it was a bad connection that got fixed while you did the work. The extra stuff. You can use your meter to check continuity through the switch from the power supply wire to the outlets. Doesn't really matter, just curious. I finally understand the inhibitor switch circuitry on these automatics now. Never had a reason to dig in to it before. Thanks for the puzzle.

Yes, here #117

Awesome. I suspected the switch from the beginning, but was reluctant to send you there right away because of the recent replacement. Glad you got to the bottom of the issue, and hope you're good from this point forward. If you haven't already... Don't forget to remove the jumper around the starter relay and reconnect the relay. You don't want to accidentally start your car in "D"!

Not a stupid question.....made me go and check it out. Yes it will go high enough😊

Being lazy and not having read the entire thread, I have a suggestion that perhaps has not been tried yet. Replace the spade connector on the end of the BY wire at the starter. It may “look” just fine, you may have even cleaned and tightened the metal contact. I had one where there was only one strand of wire still crimped under the terminal tangs and that strand (like the rest) were filthy and corroded. No way to get enough current flowing to engage the starter solenoid. Snip, strip, scrape any corrostion off of the bare wire, crimp a new 1/4 FM terminal, stuff it on the starter terminal.

We bought an uncoated header for the 510 from Troy Ermish a while back. We added two O2 bungs so we can check the carbs separately and added a Vband fitting at the exhaust end. I sent it off to JetHot over Christmas and got it back this last week. It looks nice!