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Awesome. I love it when a plan comes together. If you get energetic and want easier trimming of the gauge position, use a 200 Ohm pot instead of 2K. It would be less sensitive and easier to adjust.

There's no fuel in the cabin so if that's where you smell it it's gotta be the weatherstripping. Easy way is to extend the tailpipe, maybe turn it down too. The rear hatch is usually the suspect. If it's under the hood, most likely the cold start injector if everything else is right. You can make a new gasket out of a cereal box or gasket material. I used Fruity Pebbles or Coco Puffs, can't remember? Stay away from bran.

So this one - if anyone else wants to do this. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tt-electronics-bi/93PR200LF/5957450

And let me guess... You've never seen Aircraft paint remover either:

I'm thinking theres a fuel vapor leak and its being pulled into the cabin in the same way as exhaust does with that vortex that forms in the back or via the firewall as my grommets are old. Either way its definitely a gasoline smell and not exhaust which is why I was curious about the gasoline vapor smell. My garage also smells like fuel when the car sits in there overnight. That said, if we're talking about cereal box gaskets, I'm more of a frosted mini-wheat guy and heres why - stick with me here - it's the only cereal where you're not hungry after about 30 minutes. That cereal has substance, I'm tellin ya, with sugar infused to make it palatable.

Looks very nice … I was thinking the same but got lazy before they powdered it. Getting the powder off is a pain. It is a pretty heavy layer.

Here's what happens to the inside of the ignition switch after it switches the starter solenoid a bunch of times: And here's what you should do about it (note that this is for the manual trans. The auto already has a relay, but as mentioned above, they didn't wire it like this):

What year is your car? You should be able to move the clutch release lever by hand slightly. If it has a return spring, remove it first. If it's an adjustable slave cylinder, make slightly looser. Also before you do anything, you could crack open the bleed screw on the slave. If a little fluid squirts out the system is holding pressure. It should drip but not come out under pressure

Y/B goes to the oil pressure. I opted for the easy way out today - instead of bench testing like I described previously, I looked up how to wire the "trimmer potentiometer" that @SteveJ put me onto. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/tt-electronics-bi/93PR2KLF/2408753 I didn't know how to wire it up, but found something online that said to hook the middle pin to the wire of what I wanted to attenuate. I left the dash wiring alone. Instead, I removed the spade corresponding to the Y/W wire from the 4 spaded plastic connector. Then I took a new piece of insulated wire and put an identical spade on one end and put that into vacated spot in the 4 spade connector. I stripped a bit of the insulation from the other end of that wire and soldered it to the center pin of the trimmer. Then I soldered the original male spade attached to the Y/W wire which is bolted to the gauge to one of the other pins in the trimmer. I didn't snag pics, but I will. I found that when I used a small screw driver to adjust the trimmer to "0", the temp gauge worked as before. When I just barely moved the adjustment to just off of zero, the needle on the gauge dropped. The needle was super sensitive to any adjustment, but I got lucky on my 4th try to find something just off of "0". I drove around the neighborhood and watched as the needle came up to the line near the middle of the sweep of range and sat there. 🙂 I replaced all of the gauge bulbs with led bulbs while I had the center dash panel out again. So, now I just need to button up things.

Those numbers look great. Here's hoping it was as simple as bad gas!! Hope it doesn't come back!!!

I looked at an early car here and the oil pressure sender uses the Y/B. So the Y/W must go to the temp sender. I'll update my diagram.

Hi Site, Good news i found a 69 year old Camaro carburetor mechanic and competition racer. He drove the car and determined there is lack of fuel when accelerating at low rpms. Car shouldnt hesitate when releasing the gas pedal. He also noticed spark plug in cyl one is not burning correctly and lot of fuel on cylinder 4. Unfortunately he is living in Tampa and will not be back until 2 to 4 months so he can take care of the car. He wants to deal with these issues and do a leak down test before taking the head out.