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Some of you have dealt with this little annoyance, and I have found a perfect solution. When doing a full restoration, or at least the full interior, you often have to replace the head liner and the A pillar vinyl, as well as the vinyl trim that goes across the top of the windshield where the sun visors and rear view mirror mount. While I won’t discuss the pain of installing these items, what I have found is even more of a pain, is finding the nine M5 threaded holes to put the visor and mirror mount back in. All that fresh painfully installed lovely vinyl, and 9 secret little holes you have to find to poke holes through. Get out the pokey thingy of your choice and start poking until you find them. If you put some kind of thin foam behind the vinyl like you’re supposed to, those damn holes are just a nightmare to sleuth out. Not any more! I put some nice long M5 grub screws in the nine threaded holes, THEN do the upholstery. Then finding the tips of them sticking out is easy! Make little “X” slits to expose them, grab your M3 hex key, back them out and screw in the visor and mirror mounts. Five minutes each! Easy peasy.

Now you tell me!

Well, you wouldn't have to worry about being blinded by oncoming headlights. The gauge lights will have already blinded you. Maybe not. The parking light fuse would probably blow first.

3.4W... There is a "." there, it's just hard to see. No one wants a 34 Watt gauge bulb.

Awesome. Let's hope this is the end of it and it's smooth sailing from this point forward!! Good work!

Nothing dramatic. Run it with the system a little under filled* for a couple minutes with the radiator cap off. Then top it off, fill up the overflow tank to "F", and put the cap on. Any remaining air should (in theory) work it's way out of the system over the next couple heat/cool cycles. I've not found the Z to be one of those cars that really needs a complicated burping process. * The reason for the underfill is if there is a big air bubble in there somewhere it will expand much more than the liquid coolant will. And if the system is full to the top, it'lcould belch out the top of the radiator.

Yeah, I assume the mention about the oil pressure gauge by Mike was simply due to the fact that with the dash out, you wouldn't know if you had an oil pressure issue or not. But if you didn't have any sort of oil pressure issue beforehand and the only reason you were messing around with the dash was to make it easier to get to the HVAC system, then I believe the concern is unnecessary. Glad to hear it worked out so far. Remember that it may take some time for the whole coolant system to come up to pressure. Oh, and I'd approve of a picture of you driving the car without a dash installed. Slow enough to guarantee you weren't speeding of course, since you don't have a speedometer. Hahaha!

No. Just bare incandescent bulbs whose light is turned a green color by a green plastic "lens" inside the gauges. If your bulb glass was tinted green they were replacements for the factory clear bulbs. (I say "clear" but anyone that's looked at stock bulbs after 40 years knows they're anything but clear - mostly smokey brown or charcoal) I don't see the point unless the green plastic lenses were damaged or removed from the gauge. I don't really see the point of green on green (green tinted bulb or green LED inside a green plastic housing) but whatever floats your boat. I know some people got away from the green entirely by removing the green lens from the gauges and using orange or blue LEDs (again, not my thing (bought a Z, not a ZX...) but...).

This old thread might be helpful. It has links to other useful threads also.