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Keep it as it is

There's nothing to manage. It's just a single thread in which to talk about Z's that are being sold or have sold. As opposed to multiple individual threads. If you read back through the posts you'll see that the concept works. Even Mike has commented here.

I would make sure that you have ~ 36 psi of fuel pressure. The whole system is designed around that number. The vacuum switch is probably for the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. Vacuum advance is turned off on the manual transmission cars in gear 1 - 3, I assume for emissions. I would just bypass the switch and run full time vacuum advance. The stalling might be because the plug has fallen out of the bottom of the AFM. That happened to me once. Those funky wire clips on the plug are hard to get fully seated and they didn't leave much slack in the harness under there.

This one particular thread is what keeps me coming back almost daily. It's not the only reason I visit this site, but it is my favorite thread.

I got the LM-2 hooked up today and made one run to log some air fuel ratios. The situation right now is basically idle: around 10.5 cruising at around 70 mph is about 16.5 to 16.8 giving it a decent amount of throttle to accelerate: above 17 Of note, I have the front carb fuel level set by the "wet set" method and the back carb set by using a 14-15 mm length of a nail and blowing on the inlet (air will not flow with the specified length nail between the roof of the float chamber cover and the float). Since it is rich at idle, I am going to redo the front carburetor float level to match how I set the rear one. I am hopeful that will lower the level in the front carb and consequently, lean out the ratio a bit at idle. Assuming I do get that result, I will then unscrew the mixture screws equal amounts to attempt to get lower AFR's at cruising and under throttle. If I recall correctly, they have been unscrewed exactly 2.5 turns as they sit now. My rpms signal is not recording well. I need to try a couple of things in the LM-2 manual to see if I can get that registering correctly.

It is a great Data Base - At some point in the very near future, someone will apply the right technical skills with the best AI tools - and we well all how important and useful that Data Base could be. I'd say leave the thread alone and keep building the data base. Also keep in mind that "the thread" should not be confused with "the people" that respond. The discussion thread is very useful even if some of the people that respond are not.

Nope. Look for ATL before the end of the decade, at least that's what my sources are suggesting. Here's the ZCON site: https://zcon.org/conventions/2025/

The front right and the back right hooks are the same part. Starting here, I put a couple of posts that you may want to have a look at. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/63087-restoration-of-bringatrailer-240z-hls30-35883/?&page=50#ipsMenu_elcomment_659473_menu

The memory is swirling with details of tow hooks, but I would like to point out that from the point of view of originality, the presence of tow hooks is optional. First remember they are tie down hooks, not tow hooks. They secured the car to the boat they came over on. Memory of past discussions suggests there was a Nissan order to dealers that they be removed before selling. Correct me if that’s wrong. Seems from the many Z’s I’ve seen, most still had “some” so I suspect many dealers didn’t bother. So it would appear to be “Correct” to have them or not on a restoration. If you could somehow know if they were there or not on delivery day for your particular car, then you would know to either include them or not to make it “right”. Then the issue of what particular style was installed at each of the four spots comes up, but I think that was covered in some other thread. I made a coat hook rack for the back of my shop door out of some of the ones I have laying around. Probably sacrilege to some. Too bad.

The hook on the right in the first pic was the malformed one. Now, it has been squished back into its original shape. Paint chips (of course) resulted from the work done to it in the vise and the hydraulic press. These particular hooks were used on both the front right and back right of the car. The left rear hook (on the left) is not quite symmetrical. Notably, the angle of protrusion from the body is greater. Looking at pictures of other 240z's rear hooks, I believe this is correct, and could have been intentional because of the exhaust system. Note the hooks on the Franklin Mint 240z which appear, to my eye, to be at different angles like mine: I didn't take detailed pictures of the engine compartment light rebuild. However, for this original light, I had to remove the original wiring by undoing the solder connections, glass bead blasting, plating, etc. and I had to buy a toggle switch (off eBay) to replace the original, broken one. I also purchased a replacement lens and gasket from 240zrubberparts.com. Front struts - nuts have "9" on them: I was missing one of the compression rod sleeves. Discontinued from Nissan, I found that Zcardepot.com had an OEM one for about 9 bucks. But having to wait for that stopped my suspension assembly progress for now.