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Yes, that is the general concept I was thinking, if I know the percentage more fuel that I need, then I just need to do the calculation properly to back that into the increase in annular area needed to achieve that. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Annulus_(mathematics) "a little lean" at cruise is desirable. That is, lean enough to reduce gas consumption, but not so lean as to cause any noticeable surging. 14.7 at cruise would be a good choice. Yesterday, I noticed that my exhaust joints from the header to the pipes are not sealing well - they leak. So, I need to resolve that before I can take new baseline AFR readings. I have some new exhaust clamps coming today that should solve the issue.

Just saw a '71(?) on CNN

Thanks Mike. I did not know how to do it correctly and appreciate your help. I’m Lenny, the owner for last four years. I bought it from the gentleman who purchased it directly from Wheeler Dealers.

I do not know if the afr number to the fuel supply is directly relatable I dont believe a super lean afr is 0 fuel and pig rich is an Afr of 1. Its a ratio so an afr of 1, is 1 part air to 1 part fuel. How is each part measured? What is the unit? Stoic is 14.7:1 So if you're at 16:1 your fuel needs to go up by 8.8% I believe, maybe, possibly...

Oh, and the reason I posted that video is that it can help give you a good idea of where your pistons are under different conditions. Making it potentially easier to figure out where along the stations you need to make adjustments. Like for example... Just because you are at WOT doesn't (necessarily) mean that you're running at a station way down at the tip of the needle. It depends on the amount of air flowing through the carb, not directly on pedal position. If you have a small camera, you could rig it up to take a similar video of the carb slide on one of your carbs. Might be informative. And about the AFR numbers you're getting... I'm no carb expert, but I've generally found that the SU's run rich at WOT, not lean. Maybe your rebuilt engine flows a whole lot better than stock? Maybe it's something else. It doesn't sound like a vacuum leak to me. That would be more pronounced at idle. A problem with the slides? Like dampers not working right or weak springs? Fuel supply compliance? What happens if you pull back on the choke lever while you're driving? Does everything clear up and look better? Just thinking out loud. ☺️

I assume that with enough equipment and calculations, you might be able to predict what would work "right out of the box", but that's way above my pay grade. I would do the same as Patcon and use the AFR numbers as guidance as to which general part of the needle needs to change. Here's a great video of how the pistons in CV carbs operate. This is a motorcycle, but the concept is the same. You can tell by the sound how much he's into the throttle, and you can see what the pistons do in response. I love this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR63vrfhwr8 I don't have time to really work on any details right now, and probably won't for a couple days. But, just for starters... Is there any chance that you're running into a fuel compliance issue? By that, I mean, maybe your fuel system is able to provide adequate fuel at idle, but once you start loading the engine, maybe you're sucking the bowls down? And if you let it idle for a minute before shutting it off, the bowls refill before you get the chance to check them? I consider it a long shot, but just maybe? Something like the banjo filters are partially clogged perhaps? Long shot, but I have to ask.

I've collected some parts again recently, so it's time for another update full of random bits and pieces. Reader RIP260Z pointed out that the Pump diaphragm is missing in the American Mikuni rebuilt kits which I got recently, but are included in the Japanese Mikuni rebuild kits. Luckily, I was able to find a guy in Japan who sells all OEM Mikuni / Solex parts individually, and I ordered plenty of parts, that were still available - Including the Pump diaphragms and many wear and tear parts like springs, etc. Speaking of Mikunis, I also found an original Japanese Solex NPHH44 service manual. I had a Copy of it before, but this is an original one, which is very nice to have :-) And on the left side, you can see an original German PHH44 manual. This is a completely different manual for the original Solex PHH44. Those were used on the NSU TT and TTS and the BMW E10, 2002, etc. if I'm not mistaken. The manual is quite useless, as the NPHH44 Mikunis / Solex don't have too much in common with these, but nevertheless it's cool to have a reference to the "original" design of these, with some German explanations. The explanation of the working principle in the German book is really cool, with all those hand-drawn graphics. The biggest part of the various deliveries was this Center console: It's made by VintageDashes in the USA. After he explained how he made it and so on, I decided to give it a try, despite the big price-tag. So far it looks very promising, but i have to check the details. I will compare it with the OEM console and the one from ResurrectedClassics which i also have in stock, soon. I found another Datsun Switzerland pricelist. This time from February 1978. As usual, I scanned them all in high-resolution, and you can download my whole collection here, for free. And then another useless, but cool part. The Eaglemoss-spareparts box. Which belongs to the kit, but sadly was missing in my set. If you want to know more about the eaglemoss 1/18 Fairlady set --> read here, and here. Aside from 2 empty binders (for the magainzes) and the original tool-pouch, my set is pretty much complete, now :-) I already have the next bunch of parts waiting in Japan, a delivery from Nissan directly, and I've worked a bit on the car too and did some research, so you can expect more updates again in a few days. Oh, and I also got a free heavy-duty grinder for my workshop, and cleaned / restored it a bit this week. If this is your kind of thing, then read the full story here.

I'm the only madman in the Netherlands that drives a datsun 240z on wintertires in the Netherlands hahaha!! Get LOTS of thumps up 👍 with these cars especially in the winter! (I did/do this just because putting in a new floor in a 240z is much easyer than in a 300zxtt! 😁) My 240z is ready to take another restore now after 25 years of (Mis)use.. haha.. The dealer wants to buy that one also haha.. we'll it's for sale as i'm to ill to take up another restore. I'm left with the almost ready 280zx restore..pfff.. (May buy me another cabriolet or something in the future.. who knows..)