Leaderboard

So a quick update... I finally got the doors seals last week. They have to be signed for and nobody was ever around and I was having a hard time getting a re-delivery lined up. Anyway, I got them and put them on last Saturday. They are really nice!!! I had the precision seals and you really have to slam the doors. The new seals are nice and very soft. The door closes really nicely now. You do have to be careful when tucking the seal into the windlace that you use a dull enough tool as they will rip if you're not careful. Also one of my upper corners is coming apart but I will reglue it. It is much easier to do if you have some help. The seal wants to come back out of the windlace if you don't have someone there to hold it for you. Overall, really pleased and well worth the money!

I'll pass. You are mistaken on items 1 and 2 so you already have discredited yourself. If you care to belabor the point, you can refer to the earlier pictures here which show you are incorrect. If you doubt the authernticity of this motor, I can show you my personal vehicle which has been in the family for 55 years and is well documented showing the same thing.

MAPP gas isn't MAPP gas anymore. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas#:~:text=MAPP%20gas%20was%20widely%20regarded,America%20that%20still%20manufactured%20it.) My induction heater works nicely, especially in a tight spot.

I tried my MAPP Torch and it was not even close to getting the exhaust manifold red, so I think I will pop for the Induction Heater.

This is the first I've heard of these "s30world" door seals. I too have the Precision one's now. Looks like this is the way to go!

If an oil galley plug was loose or missing there wouldn’t be any oil pressure, and there would be a huge oil leak. There are two plugs, one at the front of the block and one at the rear, to plug the holes where the main oil gallery is drilled from the front to the back of the cylinder block. The one on the front gets covered by the timing chain cover at the front. The other is on the back of the block, and is directly in front of the forward side of the flywheel (or flex plat if the engine is mounted to an automatic). There are no other plugs in oil passages in the cylinder block. The crankshaft has plugs where oil passages get drilled to carry oil from the main bearing journals to the rod bearing journals. In my experience not many machine shops remove them when performing machine work on crankshafts. Oil is picked up from the crankcase by the oil pump, sent through the forward passage to the oil filter, then goes through the reward passage, some going to the passage that feeds the crankshaft main bearings (and ultimately the rod bearings and some squirts through a small opening on the upper side of the big end of each connecting rod to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons) with some bypassed to pressurize the cam chain tensioner, and some going to the cylinder head to lubricate the cam journals and the valvetrain. The L series lubrication diagram:

It only takes 6 years... finally, I can test drive my car ?