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I found this and thought it was cool... so here I am sharing it with y'all

Just thinking through the option of adding a longer duration of time that the piston takes too drop - that would occur with higher weight oil. Probably wouldn't be the way to address the issue, because it would only add say another second or so (just guessing), before the piston would reach the same point of travel (and the needle reach the same point inside the nozzle) where it goes really lean. I found I was able to tighten all of the nuts holding the carbs to intake manifold as well as the intake manifold and header to the engine. Some I was able to tighten nearly a quarter of a turn. I fired the engine up after that, and I got a wildly different AFR at idle. So! It was raining and I didn't want to take the car out. I will revisit and see if I tightening up those things has perhaps eliminated an air/vacuum leak.

I've been busy dealing with life recently, but that doesn't mean I forget spending money on more or less useless automobilia :-) First, the Japanese L-series Service manual. I have it in various language, but never had "the original" one from JP. And since it popped up for a reasonable price, I had to have it. Then i got another Datsun Switzerland price list. This time from April 1980. As usual, you can find all of them scanned in high-resolution for free download, here Some may know my List of various Japanese L6 Intake manifolds, carb kits and Turbo / Surge tank kits. And thanks to a hint, I recently acquired this lovely Japanese printed ad from the very first FET / HKS Turbo Kit. You can read a lot about it in my Intake / Turbo surge tank post, here. Thanks to a hint from Mymechanix, i got a beautiful Differential strap. The originals are usually worn out, and this replacement belt from Aliexpress has the perfect fitments and dimensions. All other alternatives come either in a leather look or rubber, this one is much closer to the original design. Unfortunately the surface is glossy and has some prints on it (see the one on the left) so i will try to sand it down, to get as close to the original look as possible.

Fiberglass repairs on the early scoops are very easy as is replacement of broken mounting studs. I've done several. I currently have one I'm prepping for JDM style headlight covers that has a few cracks that I'll cover with fiberglass cloth before moving ahead.

I love it when a plan comes together! Fully operational below dcoe throttle body actuator for DBW ITB. Mostly hidden!

Thanks Guys, ya CanTechZ I saw the note, thanks again. I had a hell of a time with my first set on installation but that was definitely a "me" thing so Chris was super kind to send me a replacement of the rubber side. I will definitely have a second set of hands with me to preserve the integrity of the the 90 degree joint, plus I'll move the car into the driveway for way more space. I'm really looking forward to installing these seals, and I also have an S30 fuel tank to install as when I restored mine, I have always felt there is powder coat inside the tank that continually fills my filters way too soon so I went nuclear with one of their reproduction tanks. It looks really nice, too. Cheers

Fixed, thank you!