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This is a little bit wide of the mark, but how about this Z on an album cover...

Sorry for geeking out. I was on a roll. 😄

I suspect that JAlex's problems may be the result of poor local fuel quality combined with local high-temp conditions. Not sure that any of us are qualified to provide proper guidance on that combination. Maybe not even Nissan. It may prove difficult to find qualified tech help in Panama. That said, I hope the new mechanic proves to be up to the task and this will end with JAlex piloting Panama's best Z on his local streets and highways.

After exchanging emails several times with Chris at s30 it was determined that the initial gas tank shipment was lost. They finally resent it about a week ago and now they estimate that it should arrive the first week of May (per Chris in today's email). Twelve weeks after my initial order. It's a good thing i wasn't in a big hurry. They say they have added the door rubber strips and emergency cable to make up for the inconvenience. I'm out of town for two weeks starting tomorrow. I'll post an update if/when this thing shows up. Rodger

Since you're in experimentation mode and you have fabricating skills, you might remove the factory mount and fab up a new mount that gives the desired angle. It wouldn't need to be super strong or made for permanence if you're only evaluating cruising speed. Keep the strap in place in case of breakage. It could be a solid mount. If the angle is perfect but the vibration is the same, then you can start looking elsewhere. The RTz mount either gives a certain angle with the GM mount, or it gives a range of angles in use with the snubber, as the diff nose moves up and down. The GM version is an actual mount, the snubber version is essentially a solid strap. p.s. have you considered mounting a camera under the car to see what the diff nose is doing while driving? Maybe something is moving. Or, looking back at your pictures of the crossmembers, why don't you just shim the crossmember mount downward with some washers. Perfect the angle, take it for a drive. then you'll know if you should go further.

Bottom line that’s not the way the engine was designed unless he thinks you had a defective thermostat.

Leaking oil pan gasket? And... Mismatched hardware holding the slave cylinder on?? From you? Stickler for details? I'm shocked!!! Hahahaha!!!! 😁

Any chance of correcting this thread title's 'J30' to 'S30.world'? Might help future searches...

I agree. In spite of my overall frustration with the order it was a class move on their part. Rodger

Restoring the hubcaps. I decided to freshen up the hubcaps a little. 3 were a faded gray, and 1 was a darker color, almost blackish gray. My first step was cleaning the area between the chrome and the paint. The tape line. I used 0000 steel wool. Then I degreased it and applied 1/4" fine line tape all the way around. It really helps to see so I used these magnifying goggles and a headlamp, and a good light. Once I had that tape on, I used a wider tape and continued around until it was masked off. Same for the center cap. Then I used a scotch Brite pad and scuffed and cleaned the old paint. Blew it off with air and degreased the old paint until the rag was clean. It took several cleanings, but this is a very important step. Then when the wind quit blowing, I gave them several coats of the Datsun Gray paint purchased from California Datsun, great stuff! An hour later, I removed the tape. It came off easy, pulling at a right angle to the paint.

Have you heard of @zclocks on this site. He’s pretty much the expert on these clocks. I’d reach out to him and see if he will take it on.

Cleaning out my shed of Z items. Free to the first person to pick up in Johnson Lane, NV (Reno/Tahoe area). Set of 4 Epsilon 3 piece wheels with black centers. Wheels were setup in 1982 by Mark Morris Tires in Portland, OR for a 1981 280ZX. I've also run these on 3 different 240Zs over the years. The mounted tires are too old to use and will need to be discarded. The wheels have blemishes expected after over 30 years of use. They still clean up good enough to use as is or restore. NOS Ansa resonator (rear muffler) for a 240Z. This muffler mounts horizontally (dual outlet), not vertically. These were popular on 240Zs during the 1970s. EDIT: Added photo of the wheels on my last 240Z.

My brother likes making them, and i am not from the U.S. but thank you for this site! It is going to be handy i reckon.

When I rebuilt that old slave cylinder, I included an internal spring. So now I have both internal and external. It gives me guilty pleasure thinking that the two of them are battling it out on my car right now! Hahaha!! 😄

North South it’s still Carolina!!😂

Thanks @Patcon I had not seen that before. It's on order. If heat is a problem maybe we can get a 2fer😃

Hahahaha!! I've been called worse than stickler as well. And that was just today!! 😄 I'm confident with your attention to detail, that stuff I noticed has already been addressed, or will be in the near future.

You could look at the RT mount and customize the diff angle

I know you had a heat problem when in Panama. Did you also have that problem after moving to Europe? Maybe just a lower temp thermostat rather than no thermostat should at least get your engine to warm up a little quicker. On the PCV and thermostat, both should be readily available at any auto parts store. Both thermostat and PCV are very easy to replace.

Too funny. That's what I get for buying someone else's project. BTW, I've been called worse than stickler. Lol.

CO, the condensor on my coil is connected to the + post along with the B/W wire. Also, a condensor is on my alternator as you pictured.

Save the date if in the area or interested in a road trip...ECZN is an easy three day event wrapped in the Carlisle Import and Performance Nationals in Carlisle, PA. Get those Zs ready for Carlisle East Coast Z Nationals (ECZN), which is held internal to Carlisle Import & Performance Nationals. Save the date if in the area or interested in a road trip. ECZN is an easy three day event wrapped in the Carlisle Import Nationals inside Carlisle, PA Fairgrounds. Over 18,000 attend the import nationals and the Maryland Z Club hosts ECZN social evening and drive on Friday... Then enjoy Saturday festivities at Carlisle fairgrounds. Nissan/Infiniti paddock for ECZN attendees with car show awards, raffles, special display vehicles and more. Thursday Evening May 15 – Happy Hour Hotel Bar – Homewood Suites by Hilton Carlisle Friday May 16 – Hang out at ECZN Tent / Fairgrounds / Corn Hole Z Cruise around Carlisle – Planned Route End at Desperate Times Brewery at approx. 5:30 pm Social time at Desperate Times: 5:30pm – til ?? Other bars downtown Carlisle — on your own Saturday May 17 – Carlisle Fairgrounds for ECZN People’s Choice Car Show Registration from 8am to 10am Voting 10am – Noon 12 noon ballots turn in Awards Raffles 50/50 3pm Register for Import and Performance Nationals select club East Coast Z Nationals and then register for ECZN, its only $10. Website and registration: www.eastcoastznationals.org #eastcoastznationals #Nissan #Nismo #zcca #zclublife #marylandzclub #whiterosezclub #datsun #ZCCR #s30 #s130 #z31 #z32 #z33 #z34 #rz34

I found an old thread with several of us iin it. I feel kind of dickish reading my old comments. Hopefully I've mellowed. The 6801 has come up before, I'd forgotten about it. I also pulled up the 79 and 83 EFI ECU wiring diagrams and they seem essentially the same. Odd though that the 79 diagram doesn't show the O2 sensor circuit to the ECU. Just interesting that they apparently added the microprocessor to what had been a processor-free system. 1979 Uploading Attachment... 1983 Uploading Attachment...

Thanks much guys. That certainly explains why there isn’t an internal spring. I kept seeing the later version, and was pretty sure I didn’t loose it.

Your analysis of the parts is correct... Resistor, zener, capacitor - Those three parts are used for power supply and regulation*. They are relatively easy to source, and other than the zener voltage, the specs are relatively unimportant. By that, I mean... You could use a 180 Ohm resistor or a 150uF cap. Within reason, the values don't matter. The resistor will dissipate less than half a watt, so a one watt resistor would be fine. Composition (wirewound, metal film, carbon... Doesn't matter.) Crystal, and control chip - Those two are not easy to source. Hope that your problem is not one of those two. The HD44001 control chip does not appear to be available. Probably designed for the application and sold only to the clock manufacturer. And I would try hard to not mess with the crystal. The frequency is a little unusual, and even if you can find another crystal with "close enough" frequency, it's not guaranteed that it would work paired with the electronics inside the control chip. They are used as a shunt regulator system with the cap as a filter. System has about 30 mA quiescent current and therefor a little less than that in compliance.

Not bad. There are still good Z project opportunities popping up out there. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-357/

The odometer clicked over 500 miles on Friday night, so I took the valve cover off yesterday and did both the leak down test and adjusted valves. Here were my leak down percentages: #1 = nearly 4% #2 = 2-3% closer to 2 #3 = 4% #4 = 4% #5 = 3% #6 = a little over 1% For my Iskenderian cam, the valve lash is .006" on the intakes and .008" on the exhaust. I set each so that the feeler gauge was a snug fit while the engine was cold. All of the cam lobe surfaces looked great! The next time I fire it up and get the oil warm, I'll change the oil. Today, I removed a portion of the exhaust and the driveshaft and measured the angles of the front engine dampener and the pinion flange on the differential. I believe I will be able to lower the transmission rear crossmember to bring the engine/transmission assembly to the same 87.1 degrees that the pinion flange is at. I will just need to add shims between the transmission crossmember and the car body. Oh! And I just remembered that I should check the angles in the horizontal plane (not just vertical) as well.

I found the angles today of the front dampener and the pinion flange: I measured these with the car on the lift. The rear moustache bar is locked in solid - there is no vertical movement at the mounting location. Same for the front diff mount. So, I don't have to consider suspension movement (doing this with the suspension loaded). The angle at the differential pinion flange is 87.1. And the angle at the engine dampener is 89. I should be able to drop the rear of the transmission, hopefully a small amount, to get the angle at the dampener to match. I am glad I didn't use the original motor mounts, which were shorter, and would make this problem worse.

ECCS was first used on the 430-series Nissan Cedric in Japan (June 1979). ECCS stands for Electronic Concentrated (Engine) Control System. Electronically-controlled (via an ECU) injection was introduced on a 230-Series Nissan Cedric 'EL' model at the 1970 Tokyo Motor Show: Nissan was actively using a system ECGI (Electronic Controlled Gas Injection) back in 1971. Nissan group affiliate Diesel Kiki licensed the Bosch D-Jetronic system patents and re-engineered it to use with double and triple sidedraught throttle bodies on competition cars:

Don't forget the "black box" or the "voodoo" part. "Dr. Bosch's Black Box of Analog Voodoo and Wizardry". That's what makes the engine go vroom. * "DBBBOVAW"

Yesterday I gave #957 an overdue wash/detail, top and bottom. I've had six months of ownership, and been caught in the rain a few times during the 700 miles I have put on her so far.

Some of you have dealt with this little annoyance, and I have found a perfect solution. When doing a full restoration, or at least the full interior, you often have to replace the head liner and the A pillar vinyl, as well as the vinyl trim that goes across the top of the windshield where the sun visors and rear view mirror mount. While I won’t discuss the pain of installing these items, what I have found is even more of a pain, is finding the nine M5 threaded holes to put the visor and mirror mount back in. All that fresh painfully installed lovely vinyl, and 9 secret little holes you have to find to poke holes through. Get out the pokey thingy of your choice and start poking until you find them. If you put some kind of thin foam behind the vinyl like you’re supposed to, those damn holes are just a nightmare to sleuth out. Not any more! I put some nice long M5 grub screws in the nine threaded holes, THEN do the upholstery. Then finding the tips of them sticking out is easy! Make little “X” slits to expose them, grab your M3 hex key, back them out and screw in the visor and mirror mounts. Five minutes each! Easy peasy.

My guess is that the Datsun garage dash is supplied by Vintage Dashes. Perhaps they got a bulk order discount at the time. I know that Jay, owner of jdmcarparts.com, distributes his parts to Motorsports and other Z suppliers. I think Vintage Dashes does the same thing. Not a lot of people out there making Dashes. Datsun Garage dash may be a blem. Also, FWIW, I love the Vintage Dashes. I have assembled and installed 4 of them and they look great. I have done 2 Just Dashes and they are good, but do not maintain the shape of the original dash. I was not happy with how they shaved the foam over the 3 center gauges. The foam was thicker in that location than the original. I posted pics of the difference on one of my blogs here. Both companies use the same black plastic overwrap and have the same grain, which is different from the original but not a big deal. Only nerds like me pay attention to material textures. Also, I can relate to your windshield loss. I accidentally dropped a head onto an original Z windshield when working in tight quarters at my old house. I was crushed.

A few months ago, I created a differential cover to go with the KAAZ LSD I installed last year. I finally got around to installing the cover and as fast as I filled it, the gear lube leaked out. I'll pull the cover and see if I can figure out what I did wrong but for now, I'm going back to the original cover for now. I'm guessing there is a problem with the mating surface. I'm not necessarily posting for advise as much as I need to vent. Hopefully my other little projects worked out better so I can get my Z back on the road. Other projects I'm finishing up include a freshly rebuilt 5-speed, oil pan gasket to stop the oil leaks (I hope), DIY engine splash shield, and fabricating plastic inner fender covers.