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eBay UKDatsun 240Z Ashtray Snuffer Plate Reproduction In Stainle...Datsun 240Z Ashtray Lid Insert / Cigarette Snuffer Plate – Reproduction Part High-quality reproduction of the original Datsun 240Z ashtray snuffer plate, designed to match the look and fit of the f... Datsun 240Z Ashtray Lid Insert / Cigarette Snuffer Plate – Reproduction Part High-quality reproduction of the original Datsun 240Z ashtray snuffer plate, designed to match the look and fit of the factory part found in 1970–1973 models. Precision-cut metal complete with M3 bolts and nuts for easy installation. Fitment: Datsun 240Z (1970–1973) Material: Stainless steel Slotted snuffer design, includes M3 bolts and nuts Ideal for restoration projects or replacement of missing, broken or corrodedl parts

Went on my first road trip of the year with my BC Z club friends. About a dozen of us left from the Vancouver area, I joined from Chilliwack and we made our way to the BC Okanagan. Our original plan was to take the Coquihalla Highway to Kelowna, but a large sinkhole closed that route. We ended up taking the more scenic Hope-Princton Highway. For me it was a 436 mile (700km) return trip. My1970 Zed performed flawlessly, even in high mountain terrain and temperatures in the mid 30's C, (93 F), Our first stop was in Princton, for fuel, and to meet up with a few more Z club members. Here's a pic of a few of us in Princton. Our end destination was Kelowna, where Kelowna Nissan generously us hosted for a welcome event. They put on a great BBQ and offered up some Nissan swag. With other club members that met up with us along the way, there was close to twenty Zeds. The Zed to the left of me is fellow forum member @Chickenman, with his 1976 280Z. Thanks Richard, for the "way home" route ideas. The next morning, quite a few had decided to stay an extra day and enjoy the awesome wineries in the surrounding area. I and others, make the trek back, with most taking the faster, more direct Coquihalla route, as sink hole repairs had been made. I like to take the road less travelled, so I did a solo drive on a longer but more scenic route. This route included highway 5A from Merritt to Princton, that runs beside a seemingly endless series of beautiful lakes. Another bonus was that I was almost the only car on the road, with that route. 🙂 All in all, it was a great weekend. I'm looking forward to the next road trip.😎

The door latches I used Tail light chrome pieces. They weren't very flat. So I heated them slightly to reshape them. I did cause some wrinkling in the finish on the one that was pretty warped. I probably should have sent them back and exchanged them but for now it's fine Bought some washer to hold the trims on Installed Some butyl to hold the lens in The center post of the chrome is supposed to be long enough to go all the way through the back and get another star washer. The posts on my repops aren't long enough for that. So hopefully the lens don't fall out Felts for the bottom lens drains Shop dog More Belmetric Lights in place Finishers Badges, because everyone knows badges make cars run better!! ;)

If a sermon could save even one soul it would be worth preaching. I think you'd find - if you gave it the benefit of the doubt - a smattering of eager listeners in "this crowd" who would appreciate the chance to hear what you have to say. If we don't deserve it, then who does? You might look at the current exchanges on this forum and see members eagerly conversing with what appears to be an Artificial Intelligence 'bot, but over the years some of us have drilled pretty deeply into the story of these cars, the people and circumstances behind them and into their very fabric. I can think of few other open source platforms where this has been made available in the English language. Hopefully (!?) much of that still exists here and is - with effort - searchable for those who are curious and/or passionate enough to know. At the very least, put it out there before you can't. Pro Bono. Thanks.

And I thought it was some hot asian chick who drove a Porsche... O_O

That's a midlife crisis screaming out loud car. I'd end up wearing shoes without laces. 🤪

Gang - I'm also in a classic British car restoration forum and they had a really cool thread idea that I wanted to bring here: Did you buy your Datsun brand new and you still own it to this day? If so, please post the oldest photo of you & your car in this thread, and maybe write a little story about what prompted you to buy it at the time! * Also welcome in this thread are stories & photos from Z owners where another family member (parent, grandparent, etc) bought the car new and it has stayed in the family until present day Looking forward to reading your story! I know @jfa.series1 has one!

Looks like I never finished this thread. I replaced the front yoke and took the propeller shaft to a local shop for balancing. It was there opinion that the shop that did the shortening of the prop shaft did not balance it. When I went to install the shaft into the transmission, the "slop" (the amount I could push the yoke radially) was a lot. As an estimate from looking, I'd say I could move the yoke in any direction about .020". So, that is about a mm of movement radially. It might have been a bit more than that. So, I decided to replace the bushing that is in the tail shaft of the transmission. Looking back on it, I think the bushing developed wear because of the driveshaft being out of balance for the first 500 or so miles I put on the car. I think that the bushing was sacrificial - meaning made of softer material than the yoke. Anyway, after putting the new bushing in (removal and reinstallation of the transmission was required), the new yoke was tight (no discernable movement at all radially). With everything back together, the vibration that caused me to start this thread is gone!

You've got to be kidding!!! Five minutes after wearing that, my wrist would look like this:

What a fantastic shot! That could be a poster.

Here's the latest wiring diagram. I changed the ground distribution scheme to add the dedicated ground strap directly from the battery terminal to the firewall, and also labeled the ground connections that are through the engine metal. Hope this helps depict how the car is actually wired. I also changed one of the wire colors leading to the fog light switch. Might only matter to people in other parts of the world who have fog lights. <V8.0> _obvious 240Z Wiring Diagram 8.0.pdf

Nissan were caught out by changes to motor vehicle 'Construction & Use' regulations with regard to lighting for 1971-up in several European markets. Height from road level was particularly difficult to solve. The regulations even required changes to the illumination of the rear license plate. Of course such regulations applied to NEW cars and many private owners took the opportunity to move these aesthetically unpleasant front turn signals to a position UNDER the front bumper, or - even better - to revert to the configuration that the gods originally intended... A legacy of precedence. You may have heard of Mr James Watt? He found it necessary to use a unit of measurement in order to compare the power of steam engines to that of working horses. Of course he used the IMPERIAL system as METRIC horsepower didn't exist at that point, the Industrial Revolution not being a Continental phenomenon... You may also have heard of Sir Isaac NEWTON? That's him in your Nm measurement. (Posted from The United Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland, a small place off the coast of mainland Europe which used to rule much of the world for a while... LOL)

Built my custom 86 Z31 300zx over 4 years. It took best in show from Pit&Paddock/Meguires at SEMA 2021. The inspiration for my build was the 240z my dad and I restored together. A car that I found as a teemager back in 1993. My dad finally acquired his last dream car, a white on tan 993. Only problem was, he ran out of garage space. He was planning on selling the orange car but just couldn't bring himself to let it go. So he made me a deal I couldn't refuse on the safari gold car. Amazing to have both cars together!! " " " " " " " " " "

You've pretty much answered your own question there. And when it comes down to it, we'd have to judge it as a success in those very marketing terms let alone anything else. The press loved it. The project caught the imagination and support of influential figures in the North American Z 'scene' - including the kind who insisted it was a first for a major manufacturer (it wasn't) and "unique" in the auto manufacturing world (it wasn't). Those same figures still vaunt it today. We've certainly discussed the topic here on classiczcars.com many times over the years and our fellow member @26th-Z wrote what I believe is the definitive essay on the VZ cars. It was - when all is all said and done - a big deal in the story of the Z car's mid-life crisis. But as is often the case, the hype and commentary from offstage created unrealistic expectations. The misleading term 'Factory Restoration' was thrown around a lot and many swallowed it whole, including members of the specialist press. The VZ cars often get judged as though they were intended to be 100% factory correct concours restorations when that was clearly never the case. You can see the same thing happening in the current BaT auction. LOL. Another bunch of answers to your "why are the Vintage Z valued so highly?" question in there. It's the kind of people appearing in that video - and mentioned in it - who are part of the hype. High profile figures in the old Z car world, but often too the Typhoid Mary-like spreaders of bad information. Whilst looking in the engine bay of a VZ car we get the words 'Nickel' and 'Cad' plating thrown around (its mostly Zinc...) and a false story about the commissioning of re-pop braided hoses (Nishi san of Revive Jalopy in Japan was responsible for this and for many other previously unobtainable parts too). We even see a modern fuel filter pointed at as though it is some kind of ancient relic. Some typical 'Mr K Lore' thrown in for good measure when discussing early cars/chassis numbers. Larry Chen asks "why is it that the US got the early cars and how come Japan didn't get the early numbers...?" and Jaffe's answer talks about the '240Z'. Japan did get early cars (they got them earlier than the US too...) but the problem here is the congenital misconception that the 'US 240Z' is something over and above the whole S30-series Z family as conceived, planned, designed, styled, engineered and produced before the end of 1969. To the point that anything else is some kind of afterthought. We get Katayama's "PUSH" related as a one-man quest to get 'his' project made rather than the more realistic scenario of him lobbying for influence on something that was already happening. Apparently Mr Carl Beck ('Z car encyclopaedia') "can tell you how many went to England, Australia and its all very limited...", but there's no mention of Japan in their 'Z car' story. You can look at pretty much any volume - and non-volume - selling sports car of the 60s and 70s period and see the same story; volume sales in the USA. But I've yet to see any Triumph, Austin-Healey, MG or Jaguar being vaunted as 'Made Expressly For The USA'. VW shipped just shy of 400,000 Type 1 Beetles into the USA in 1968 alone, so 'Made For The USA'? Mainland USA was the biggest single potential market for just about any product of the period concerned, but I would like to credit at least some US consumers as being sophisticated enough to see through all the "we made this for YOU" type sales slogans. So, why are the Vintage Z cars valued so highly? It's in large part due to the influence of the kind of people who had eight of them, and sold six of them to somebody who now has eight. Larry Chen will make a video about them! People listen, and look up to, movers and shakers like that. Our old BaT friend Larry Stepp (he's a BIG fan of the classiczcars forum) made a prediction the last time this current BaT auction VZ car was up for sale. He said it would be worth 250k USD in a few years. There's the hype. It's not so much to do with the physical details of the object (which is not too shabby, to say the least), it's the perceived kudos and status within a fairly small cohort of people who are looked up to as sooth-sayers and mystics. Buy "one of the 37" and - hey! - maybe you'll even get the pleasure of putting the hose clamps on 'the right way round'...

If it's possible, try contacting the people who placed these six figure bids and ask them? I can understand the emotions behind an auction, but there's got to be good reasons why these cars are selling in the high digits. In my opinion, this kind of money is only spent by people with the cash to do it. Unless they have inherited the money, they are likely very smart with their life choices and will have a valid reason to throw six figures at such a car. It typically won't be a whim and they will not do it unless there's some kind of investment value. BTW, "value" is a subjective term and doesn't always equal money. ;)

About this Vintage Z - As I recall - this one first showed up for sale about 20 miles North of me. New Port Richey or Holliday Florida. A friend of mine went to look it over, and reported that it was very poorly cared for. The next time we saw it, was its first sale on BAT. My fiend remarked that it had been very well detailed for that sale and looked 100% better than his personal inspection. Now we see it again, with an owner that put some significant funds and I’m sure elbow grease into it - to bring it up to better condition. Will the customer modifications hurt its market value? Not as much as the current market itself, the mod’s might hurt it a little as most collectors don’t want to mess with fixing anything.

While at a car show this past weekend, had a very interesting conversation with a gentleman. His parents opened a Datsun dealership in Moose Jaw, Sask. The year was 1966, he said that the family home was on the same property and he grew up working in the shop. He remembers the day the Datsun Training trailers pulled into the yard and all of the mechanics spent a week going through the courses. He gave me three of these plastic bags, he says he has lots more Datsun stuff . I am working on getting a chance to go shopping through his collection.

This pic is from a mid-1970 car. I believe it is original. (I have no reason to believe otherwise):

I didn't trust my ability to hermetically weld the tank. So I assisted a friend while he tacked it together. He then took it to a mutual friend with a TIG welder and finished it up. At this point, I poured more Red Kote into the tank and allowed it to flow over all of the seam. I let this sit for about a month to cure. Then, I sealed off all of the openings and blasted off the remainder of the external paint. Interestingly, there were dozens of small hidden rust spots beneath the paint. You couldn't see them through the paint. But when the media hit it, the paint would flake off, revealing a brown rusted spot. After blasting, ready for paint. I primed and painted it with Rust-oleum automotive paint in rattle cans. It turned out decent. No one will be looking at it. Note I didn't remove the original rubber blocks. They were stuck on really well, and not damaged. I did remove the original foam rubber piece near the sender hole because it was falling apart. I replaced it with a similarly-sized piece of 1/8" (3mm) thick EPDM rubber, just to make sure nothing would rattle. You can also see where I masked off the factory marking, just in case anyone might ever care if the tank was original. Lastly, I leak tested it by putting a few gallons of gasoline in it and allowing it to sit on each edge for 30 minutes. The sun was out, so the tank heated up and pressurized, which was a good sign. I'm happy to report that I've reinstalled the tank in the car, and it works fine. No leaks. And no more plastic gas can bugeed to the rear shelf.

Huge thanks to Charles for coming over and helping me get the tank back in. It feels indescribably good for her to run under her own power with a complete fuel system. I'll circle back to my fuel tank restoration thread with an update. But in brief: cut tank open, bead blast clean, drill spot welds for screen canister, cut suction pipe to access screen, remove screen, Red Kote everything, reassemble, slosh more Red Kote around seam, bead blast outside, paint. Easy, lol. Tank restoration thread: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68742-efi-fuel-tank-restoration/?&_rid=30865

So we worked on the 280z some more yesterday. Put the restored tank back in it and added some fuel. Fuel pressure came up after cranking but wouldn't come up in the "On" position. Cranked up first time. Bolted some wheels on and went for a quick spin!! 20250613_194943.mp4Don't know how to add a video...??

I think both those GMBs are aftermarket and agree that an Aisin with the cast iron impeller will be as close to OE that you'll find today unless you can find one using the part number on this box.

The integral lower turn signals are too low to meet regs at the time. So the left and right valance have impressions but no holes and the signals are moved to the bumper

I never had any pushback and I have friends getting work done there now.

So I received my chrome work today. Most of it looks pretty good. I have a few things I'll ask about. Its expensive work! I have no idea how I ended up with four drivers and two passenger?? Two ash trays 2 sets of visor brackets & three cig lighter rings Four buttons for hatch locks and 2 gas doors I need some help ASAP! Is this a Datsun part?? I'm thinking no...

Don’t worry Ji-hye, I drive a Porsche as well and they haven’t treated me bad…

I had the weirdest accident! My truck was parked in my driveway. The instagram model across the street was parked in her driveway. Nobody in either truck. My daily is a 2024 Tacoma TRD Off Road. Hers is a 1998 Ford Ranger. Her truck popped out of gear rolled out of the driveway, across the street, up my driveway and in to the front end of my truck. $3000 damage, all cosmetic. The only thing my wife says is “only you could get hit by a damned instagram model!” My rental is a Nissan Rogue. I am struck by how much better the transmission feels!

The 72 FSM has the colors. In @kats connector it does not show a Br or BrW wire. It shows two GW. This may be the correct orientation:

Anything to help another gearhead! Rust areas are the most important hidden item on these old cars.

Thank you Mike. If anyone from this forum wants one I'm sure I can arrange a sensible discount. Because the cost to ship to the USA is quite expensive if a few people wanted to club together i can send in one go.

Oh, I totally get it and agree completely. It's just odd that Datsun put out a document that seemingly delineated the timeline. Sounds like they were trying to differentiate between the two and put a stake in the ground as to "when". So here's a thought... Maybe that VIN of 21001 would be better interpreted as "We've been making changes over the past couple months, and as of VIN 21001, here's a list of what we've changed so far. Moving forward, all the cars will have these changes incorporated." Maybe that's a better way to think about it instead of "As of this VIN, we will be making all of these changes from this point forward." and changing all of them overnight at that VIN.

Quick one today. After working out some kinks in the wiring (thanks @SteveJ) I’m nearly done with it. I refurbished the wiring for the tail lights this week. I’ve always planned to rework the arrangement to be more like (but not exactly like) the euro tail lights. I’ve read a ton of stuff about these cars getting rear ended, so I wanted to make it as clear as possible that I’m braking. I still plan to add a third brake light, but I think this is substantially better than the original US tail light configuration. Driving lights are the outside top lights only. IMG_4744.mov IMG_4745.movTurn signals are the outside bottom lights only (thanks to @w3wilkes for the flasher recommendation). Brakes all of the top lights. Now I have to figure out what I’m going to do with the front turn signals. These LEDs are so bright that when the driving lights are on you can’t tell they flashing from more than a couple feet away. I’m wondering if there’s a way to make it cut power to the driving light wire only when the turn signal is working.

I never knew they made a black 240Z? Learned something today!

😝

That's the same as mine, door guards and all. Your paint looks a lot better though as mine has never had a respray. Yours's is my good vs bad comparison.

I accept paypal. at chaug@bis.midco.net. 30.00 for the bearing retainer that goes in the breaker plate. I make them for the 74-78 electronic pickup distributors and for the 79-83 matchbox distributors. Both come with 6 new ball bearings 35.00 for a stator magnet. 60.00 for both as most distributors need both the retainer and the magnet. Free shipping to lower 48 USA I will know what the money is for when it is sent to paypal. You can also email me, or text me at seven zero one-471-fifteen thirtyfour.

Her name was Elizabeth.

@dutchzcarguy those are funny! The Richard Pryor baby is my favorite but it's a little coarse for all members. Héy Site, that picture reminds me of those vid's about the farm from Jeremy Clarkson, diddly squat farm.. (on Youtube) where toddlers play the rolls of all the people in the series!

I doubt that hairline crack is the source of your problem, That crack probably doesn't go very deep. Hopefully it's just a surface feature. So, the first thing I would check are the nuts on the top of the strut insert (down in the recess in the top center of the strut insulators). If one of them has worked their way loose (or were never tight to begin with), you would get a noise like what you describe. And you can't just "check for play" with the strut assembly off the car. That spring will extend to take up any available play. There would only be play with a load on the strut that has partially compressed the strut insert. So was this noise always there, or is it something that has developed over time?

If someone is looking for an original Bosch version of the 280Z auxilary air valve here is one in NOS condition. Its for a 1976 Porsche 924, but it's a very similar system. Marktplaats≥ Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88) — Motor en...Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924 ('76-'88)Lucht by-pass regelaar Porsche 924-Porsche 924, 2.0liter-Voor koude start regeling (lucht)-Bosch-Getest en

Thanks John! It is nice to start thinking about plates and car insurance after all this time! Sixteen years... 😮

I have lights. No one is going to not see this thing. These LEDs are significantly brighter than the lights on my Subaru. Unfortunately, somewhere between testing it on the bench and installing the dash, the speedo and tach illumination stopped working. I think the main branch of wiring coming out of the dimmer is messed up. I also don’t have any blinkers for some reason. That one is going to be harder to figure out. Worst case scenario is that I made a mistake in the engine harness.

Thanks guys. I will add that dedicated wire. Even though there is a path through the alternator and you don't really "NEED" that ground strap for the system to work, I was a little uncomfortable counting on pass through the alternator case as the only way for current to get back to the negative battery terminal. Hmmm... Now how to depict that on the diagram that makes it clear... ☺️

1971 United Kingdom market HS30 'Datsun 240Z' with low recorded mileage. The usual inaccurate salesman's flimflam in the Bonhams write-up, but a nice car: https://carsonline.bonhams.com/en/listings/datsun/240z/62327cfd-fa98-45e5-9035-b38d20db87e2

Just for completeness, the Nissan part number is 48750-E7705.

IMO, The ignition key should not be your problem. It merely turns a blade that connects to the ignition switch module. I would just order the switch itself which mounts to the back side that’s held in with two small screws. You are going to end up with mismatched keys. Original set to unlock the doors and the new set to start the car. Just a suggestion

The seller said he could see holes for an AC system. So he assumed that it had had AC. Who knows. It almost broke 100. 95. The winner didn't play the small bid game, every bid was a big jump. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1970-datsun-240z-133/

They have this kit and one with several more pieces, which I assumed was for 280zs.