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It's quite hard to pin a current market value on a 432 or 432-R, but - in Japan, where the majority of them reside - they can change hands privately for stratospheric (in S30-series Z terms) figures. The 432-R is often valued at three or four times that of a 'normal' 432, but there's a limited data reference as so few Rs are sold 'on the record' and in public view. Japanese buyers and sellers can be very secretive (most individuals are circumspect with regard to their personal financial circumstances) and quite a few of these cars have been owned by people who are now of senior age, coming to the end of their safe driving life. That's a situation that can be taken advantage of by younger family members, friends and/or people in the old car business. @kats can tell you of a case late last year where a genuine 432-R, owned by an elderly gentleman, was bought at an unusually low price (by somebody in the right place at the right time) and was very soon being 'flipped' at a three or four times multiplied figure. Sad that the elderly vendor didn't get a more honest buyer. I feel that it's important for these cars to go to good homes, which I guess is not always about money. And that's something we can also say about this 'PS30-00218' for sale via Takeey's. It may well have a cloud over its authenticity (which all hinges on whether it's chassis number has been altered or not...) but it exists, is an attractive car in it's own right - nothing wrong with a 432-R 'tribute'/'replica' - and as long as any new owner knows exactly what they are buying, and the price paid reflects that, then OK. It just needs to find that 'Mr Right'.

Finally got my car back from a long repair and restoration cycle. Paul Krimmer (Z Car Guy Cinci) did a fantastic job of restoring my 72 240Z back to "Better than New"condition. I purchased my 72 back in 2012, and it came equipped with a 2.7L motor, Schneider Stage 2 cam, headers, 5 speed and limited slip rear end. Last June I was taking pictures at the Mid Ohio Race Track, and my car was hit from behind during a noontime parade lap! Other guys insurance paid for the damage. When the car is the shop during the winter months, more things I wanted fixed for a long time finally got done. The original riveted-on side trim strips were deleted, entire car including air dam and engine bay completed a glass-out respray in "Arrest Me Red". Looking forward to the driving season - lots of activities coming up.

Hi Steve, This is a well-known - perhaps I should say somewhat 'notorious' - car with some er, baggage... I have it down in my notes as having a "re-stamped" (re-engraved?) firewall chassis number, and there has been a fair amount of gossip about the car between interested parties over a few years. I have photos of the car from when it was for sale in 2018, so it's been knocking around ostensibly 'For Sale' for a good few years now. The website you link to is actually for a somewhat parasitic forwarding company, hoping to get in on the sale of the car and the shipping/handling thereof and taking a margin from both seller and buyer. Best to look at the car with the actual seller, well-known Japanese old car vendor 'Takeey's' based in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka prefecture. Here's their website: http://takeeys.com/index.html ...and here's the car for sale (price = 'ASK'...) on the Takeeys official site: https://www.goo-net.com/php/search/spread.php?baitai=0600834&area_cd=15&goo_car_id=700060083430240917001&ef_flag=1 Chassis number 'PS30-00218' is a genuine chassis number, but - more specifically - it is a known and official chassis number for a PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R', the very limited production super lightweight variant of the 432. Genuine 432-Rs are on another level in terms of rarity, desirability and market value in comparison with 'ordinary' 432s. However, there are question marks around this particular car. You will note that Takeey's are not claiming it in writing as being a genuine 432-R. They are selling it as a '432', which it almost certainly is. The question is whether a standard 432 has been 'sexed up' with many 432-R specific parts and details and has - nefariously - assumed the identity of 'PS30-00218' which was a genuine 432-R. We can spot many 432-R specific details and parts on the car (console delete, trans tunnel-mounted ignition switch, plain vinyl trans tunnel cover, spare wheel well delete, 100 litre tank, etc etc etc - there are too many to list) but only a genuine 432-R would have the super lightweight type bodyshell with its thinner gauge sheetmetal. Almost impossible to fake that. @kats will be able to tell you much more than me, and perhaps a little more diplomatically!

Re-listed Hitachi SU carburetors About $590 USD or $850 CAD https://www.ebay.ca/itm/375833935475

Here’s what popped up on a “memory “ page of me driving it from Dallas to Chicago. Good times.

I would "vacuum " that out with an electric fuel pump. Then analyze what you take out for a diagnosis...

I have two 2400 valve covers, one from the original motor and one that the owner sent. I was not happy with the painted valve cover, although it looks pretty, as it would get dinged by the ZCON judges as not the original finish. Also, it's not the original finish. So, I just decided to clean up the original valve cover. I am much happier with that. Looks much better. Pics below

So a quick update... I finally got the doors seals last week. They have to be signed for and nobody was ever around and I was having a hard time getting a re-delivery lined up. Anyway, I got them and put them on last Saturday. They are really nice!!! I had the precision seals and you really have to slam the doors. The new seals are nice and very soft. The door closes really nicely now. You do have to be careful when tucking the seal into the windlace that you use a dull enough tool as they will rip if you're not careful. Also one of my upper corners is coming apart but I will reglue it. It is much easier to do if you have some help. The seal wants to come back out of the windlace if you don't have someone there to hold it for you. Overall, really pleased and well worth the money!

I did something similar on mine a few months ago but with a blow torch: Heat till red hot around the manifold, cool the threads a little with pb blaster, little pressure on the threads with wrench. Repeat for about two hours until all were loose. It caught fire several times, but I did this outside surrounded by snow.

The exhaust manifold will be a bit of a project. I don't beleive that the air galley will be salvagable as the attach fittings are pretty rusted onto the manifold. I will soak these in rust penetrant for a couple more days, but most likely I will need to cut off the air galley, remove the fittings and re-tap the holes.

The body is now at the weld shop and the replacement panels from KF Vintage have arrived. The welder, Larry, said the panels were very good quality and nice thickness. Panels are now being installed. Pics are below. Work is being done by L&L Restomods. https://www.llrestomods.com/

Maybe the crap in the tank is too large to pass through the filter screen in the tank. It just blocks it up instead

A friend sent me a link to this 432 for sale. https://www.beforward.jp/nissan/fairlady-z/bx082542/id/10304275/ I would appreciate @kats and @HS30-H commenting on this one. I'm surprised at how few photos and most of poor quality for a 432. Does it look like a legitimate 432? Is this where the market is on 432s now?

Hi, I wondered myself many times what is that wide red stripe (as big as the 2 of your stripes together) and it's still a mistery, i would LOVE TO FIND OUT! I have never seen your combination of red and (what once was) white.. I asked it here on the forum and there was never a answer. Nobody knows.. Maybe it has to do with the composition of the metal of the camshaft. I think D1 (on the rear end) stands for a standard camshaft in 1972 datsun 240z's ?

Okay, auction going live today Friday 3/28 at Hemmings.com and ending Friday April 4 at 6PM. Check it out!

Hello guys, My 240z has had Fenton mag wheels for about as long as i have the z. They are vintage i had them restored but they where never really wobble free in the steering wheel. Im tired of it and i want a new set. I believe my current et is about -10 or -12 6J. New wheels in 14 inch are for some reason very hard to find. If anyone has links or tips for wheels let me know. I found these here in the Netherlands, but how does that fit? My tires are just new 195/70/14 so i want to put them on my new wheels. https://www.rrwheels.nl/Webshop/Velgen/JR-Wheels-JR19-14x7-ET0-4x100-4x114-3-Gun-Metal-Machined-Lip-JR19147040073GML?_gl=1*1lnpsoo*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhYS_BhD2ARIsAJTMMQYjrdrV1uoWUoH-JPr48noPlqm8ACaUM83a714piBIyVVkLIDfB_04aAqfUEALw_wcB

HLS30-00042 arrived this afternoon for a complete restoration. Boy, this an early one, complete with the original clear rear window. It's a little beat up, but most of the parts are there. I own HLS30-02614 in the same color, so by the time I am finished they should be looking like twins. The motor runs, which is great, but it will undergo a complete rebuild. Amazingly, the head still has the overspray on the lower portion, which is pretty rare to see. I will see if the machine shop can leave that intact. There are still a few wire clamps in there and the owner has a metal fan (and a number of other key parts), so we should be able to get the engine bay looking like the original. Looks like the hood has been replaced by a later series that was orange. The drivers side door may have been replaced as well, as there appears to be blue paint under the Safari Gold re-spray. Also, the rear panel under the rear bumper is pretty beat up and front bumper is missing. We will need to get one of those. Rear bumper looks to be in pretty good shape. Both headlight buckets are fiberglass and cracked. Both fenders are pretty rusted out in the standard places. Rear hatch panel is also rusted out (as usual) and will need to be replaced by the body shop. The interior will need to be completely restored as most items are severely cracked or worn. The original dash has just one crack in the middle unfortunately. Not sure if that is repairable, I will have to look into that as the single crack is about 2 inches long. The seats have the original vinyl material which is cool, but not usable obviously (from the pics). So the plan here is to completely strip the car over the next two weeks and get the body to the body shop ASAP as that is typically the long pole in the process. I am estimating about 6 months for the body shop to complete all its work. While the body is out, I will send the block and head to the machine shop to get that all in order for me to re-build. All the undercarriage parts will be sent to the powder coater, and all of the nuts and bolts will go out for re-plating. I will re-upholster the seats, clean up the wiring harnesses and replace the connector housings, and then start re-assembling items as they return from the shops so that once the body arrives, everything will be ready to assemble. I will post progress on here and pics as things move along. As always, feel free to comment.

I'll pass. You are mistaken on items 1 and 2 so you already have discredited yourself. If you care to belabor the point, you can refer to the earlier pictures here which show you are incorrect. If you doubt the authernticity of this motor, I can show you my personal vehicle which has been in the family for 55 years and is well documented showing the same thing.

MAPP gas isn't MAPP gas anymore. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAPP_gas#:~:text=MAPP%20gas%20was%20widely%20regarded,America%20that%20still%20manufactured%20it.) My induction heater works nicely, especially in a tight spot.

I tried my MAPP Torch and it was not even close to getting the exhaust manifold red, so I think I will pop for the Induction Heater.

This is the first I've heard of these "s30world" door seals. I too have the Precision one's now. Looks like this is the way to go!

Image for the topic.

I stumbled back on this post after seeing old pix of my white 240z. Now @gusbo 's pix have expired. Rats, would love to see those pix again.

That seems like the best approach, but they are a little pricey. I saw that you used one on the intake manifold tube fitting and was intrigued. I've used a torch and ice cubes in the past, but it was not very effective on the manifold because of its size I think.

I have been delinquent in posting updates, but finally have a little time so here goes. I will break this up into several posts so the pictures won't be overwhelming. It took almost 5 weeks to get the engine parts from Motorsports, but once they arrrived it gave me all the hardware I needed to finish the engine. The shipment was delayed for the stock piston rings. The motor went together pretty smoothly with no hiccups. The only item that was odd, and I'm guessing it's an early car item, is that the timing chain did not have the two timing links, 42 links apart. There was just one bright link and it actually had a clip feature on it so that it could be easily removed. Can't say I have seen that before. I did not take a pic of it, but may show that in the future. Pics of the engine are below.

I would use a small electric fuel pump and some hose sections and maybe a small tube section and pump it out into another container. Diesels can get algae in the tank but I've never heard of that in a gasoline car...

Any young kids around? My next door's 5 year old put gravel in my Nissan D-21 p/u fill hole. Cost his Dad some money too. Maybe a Snickers bar in there?

These cars didn't have coated tanks when new so they get "gas varnish" whatever that is. I coated both of mine with Red-Kote after a good cleaning but that's a lot of work. Until your ready for that just keep the fuel level at half a tank and enjoy the ride. Here's a couple of things you could read over... https://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm https://www.google.com/search?q=gas+varnish&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 EDIT: Some gas stations have ground water leaking into their old tanks so sometimes they will get moisture causing rust but if you keep fuel in it the rust won't happen, it takes oxygen and moisture to rust.

Selling rare OEM SU carburetors, including the manifold and heat shield. More info on ebay listing:https://www.ebay.ca/itm/375833935475

That’s rust in the tank. Are you running a pre-filter before the pump. Fram 33003 is an in line 3/8 filter that’s clear.

Hey Mike, Thanks for that information! When I posted them, I only found one other listing on facebook or something for 1100. That's what i based the price on. Let me know a price that sounds more attractive.

Yes, they are Hitachi's, a lot of people mistake them as they look alike. I've got a nice story about those! Our King had his own garage with at the head a master technician.. That technician Jan de J. came one day at 93! to me to buy a ReVox Tapemachine and saw the 240z standing on the driveway.. As he said that's a nice car i asked if he wanted to see the engine, offcourse he reacted and i showed him what's under the hood.. He pointed at the carbs and he said AH.. 2 BIG SU's that's nice and i had to correct him.. No i said these are improved SU's! They are Hitachi HJG46W! Also called roundheads.. you better avoid the flatheads hitachi (HMB46W) carbs as they are very difficult to tune.. There are some differences between the SU's en these Hitachi's.. what they are, i don't know as i never had some SU's in my hands! ;-) I'm sure these differences are in the details..

I want that cone.

I installed the new exhaust clamps today. As is often the case, I had to modify them to fit the pipe that slips over the header collector. The clamps were for 2.5 inch diameter, and while the headers have 2.5 inch outlets, the merge pipe that slips over top of those has an OD of 2.665". The "T bolt" clamps that were supplied originally were not heavy duty enough to clamp the slip fit connection tight enough to eliminate leaks. These new ones are strong enough, but I had to use a die grinder to slot the holes for the bolt and trim a bit off of the aluminum spacer to achieve a larger overall installed diameter when on the pipe: One of them still leaks a tad, but the other seems air tight. I will mess with the one a bit more some other day. With that done, I went about the main task of the day, which was to get some baseline AFR readings. Stock N27 needles, new nozzles, remanufactured carbs, in sync, etc. Mixture screws are turned down 2.2 turns. Here is idle: Let's call it 10.2 - 10.4. Here is steady state cruise. I will note that at a steady cruise on a very slight incline road, the AFR is a bit leaner than steady steady cruise on a perfectly flat, or very slightly declining road. Also, my RPM are only being recorded properly at idle. Any revs, and the signal is getting lost. This run is basically cruising in third gear at something above 3000 RPM Let's call that 16.2 - 16.5. And finally, a near, if not full throttle pull in first, and second, and part of third: This This one is harder to read. Wish the RPM signal was recording accurately. That said, looking at the above and recalling from watching the AFRs while accelerating with near full throttle, I was surprised to see numbers in the 12's and 13's. I am near certain that the two drops in the AFR line above (I put yellow notes at 4 and 9 seconds are shifts from first to second, and second to third. So, "pulling" in second under near or full throttle (look at seconds 6 through 9), I am seeing 12.9 to 13.4? I think I will work on getting the RPM signal attenuated and then I need to make some more full throttle runs. Perhaps I should do a leak down as a check to see if the engine is fully broken in. I've got about 280 miles on it, and until today, hadn't given any full throttle. That's why I was surprised with those AFR readings - I had only been applying moderate throttle and when doing that I am definitely getting lean AFRs. Transitioning from cruise to part throttle acceleration, I am generally seeing 16.9 to 17.1.

Great article Alan, thanks for sharing and thanks for the ride-along.

Are they SU? They are Hitachi's! so.. name them as such..Thank you.. Hitachi made these under license of SU.. but they are different then su carbs so they are not su they are japanese hitachi carbs. I'm sorry is i sound angry but i'm tired of correcting.. all the time..🙊

https://www.totalzparts.com/product/datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-engine-cooling-fan-clutch-new-made-in-japan/?srsltid=AfmBOorqLoh_Q70OaVbY33ZwcmzCbYfHbiDxb_eAgjnf4Rlx4LtaLxcpWrM

If an oil galley plug was loose or missing there wouldn’t be any oil pressure, and there would be a huge oil leak. There are two plugs, one at the front of the block and one at the rear, to plug the holes where the main oil gallery is drilled from the front to the back of the cylinder block. The one on the front gets covered by the timing chain cover at the front. The other is on the back of the block, and is directly in front of the forward side of the flywheel (or flex plat if the engine is mounted to an automatic). There are no other plugs in oil passages in the cylinder block. The crankshaft has plugs where oil passages get drilled to carry oil from the main bearing journals to the rod bearing journals. In my experience not many machine shops remove them when performing machine work on crankshafts. Oil is picked up from the crankcase by the oil pump, sent through the forward passage to the oil filter, then goes through the reward passage, some going to the passage that feeds the crankshaft main bearings (and ultimately the rod bearings and some squirts through a small opening on the upper side of the big end of each connecting rod to lubricate the cylinder walls and pistons) with some bypassed to pressurize the cam chain tensioner, and some going to the cylinder head to lubricate the cam journals and the valvetrain. The L series lubrication diagram:

It only takes 6 years... finally, I can test drive my car ?

Hey Bill! I will tell you all I know, I just need some spare time to seat and write. Thanks man!