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Got tires this week

It's quite hard to pin a current market value on a 432 or 432-R, but - in Japan, where the majority of them reside - they can change hands privately for stratospheric (in S30-series Z terms) figures. The 432-R is often valued at three or four times that of a 'normal' 432, but there's a limited data reference as so few Rs are sold 'on the record' and in public view. Japanese buyers and sellers can be very secretive (most individuals are circumspect with regard to their personal financial circumstances) and quite a few of these cars have been owned by people who are now of senior age, coming to the end of their safe driving life. That's a situation that can be taken advantage of by younger family members, friends and/or people in the old car business. @kats can tell you of a case late last year where a genuine 432-R, owned by an elderly gentleman, was bought at an unusually low price (by somebody in the right place at the right time) and was very soon being 'flipped' at a three or four times multiplied figure. Sad that the elderly vendor didn't get a more honest buyer. I feel that it's important for these cars to go to good homes, which I guess is not always about money. And that's something we can also say about this 'PS30-00218' for sale via Takeey's. It may well have a cloud over its authenticity (which all hinges on whether it's chassis number has been altered or not...) but it exists, is an attractive car in it's own right - nothing wrong with a 432-R 'tribute'/'replica' - and as long as any new owner knows exactly what they are buying, and the price paid reflects that, then OK. It just needs to find that 'Mr Right'.

Hi Steve, This is a well-known - perhaps I should say somewhat 'notorious' - car with some er, baggage... I have it down in my notes as having a "re-stamped" (re-engraved?) firewall chassis number, and there has been a fair amount of gossip about the car between interested parties over a few years. I have photos of the car from when it was for sale in 2018, so it's been knocking around ostensibly 'For Sale' for a good few years now. The website you link to is actually for a somewhat parasitic forwarding company, hoping to get in on the sale of the car and the shipping/handling thereof and taking a margin from both seller and buyer. Best to look at the car with the actual seller, well-known Japanese old car vendor 'Takeey's' based in Hamamatsu City, Shizuoka prefecture. Here's their website: http://takeeys.com/index.html ...and here's the car for sale (price = 'ASK'...) on the Takeeys official site: https://www.goo-net.com/php/search/spread.php?baitai=0600834&area_cd=15&goo_car_id=700060083430240917001&ef_flag=1 Chassis number 'PS30-00218' is a genuine chassis number, but - more specifically - it is a known and official chassis number for a PS30-SB 'Fairlady Z432-R', the very limited production super lightweight variant of the 432. Genuine 432-Rs are on another level in terms of rarity, desirability and market value in comparison with 'ordinary' 432s. However, there are question marks around this particular car. You will note that Takeey's are not claiming it in writing as being a genuine 432-R. They are selling it as a '432', which it almost certainly is. The question is whether a standard 432 has been 'sexed up' with many 432-R specific parts and details and has - nefariously - assumed the identity of 'PS30-00218' which was a genuine 432-R. We can spot many 432-R specific details and parts on the car (console delete, trans tunnel-mounted ignition switch, plain vinyl trans tunnel cover, spare wheel well delete, 100 litre tank, etc etc etc - there are too many to list) but only a genuine 432-R would have the super lightweight type bodyshell with its thinner gauge sheetmetal. Almost impossible to fake that. @kats will be able to tell you much more than me, and perhaps a little more diplomatically!

Update to this thread is that Chris at s30 has responded. He said I should have received the tank long ago, checking the warehouse to se what happened. shipment is insured. Fingers crossed.

To SteveJ , unfortunately i have to agree with your language joke as being right on. There is another one about two Americans visiting England and having trouble understanding the locals. They finally said to the person "we don't speak English, we're from America". And so it goes.

You can reach out to them on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/s30.world

The one above goes down inside the speedo cog housing, the O-ring goes on the outside where it slides up into the transmission from what I remember. espirist shows it here: I found a picture of the O-ring I'm thinking about. Uploading Attachment...

Maybe this seal? https://www.thezstore.com/product/3008/factory-speedometer-pinion-o-ring-small-70-86-240z-260z-280z-280zx-300zx There is also an O ring that I think goes in the cable end. IIRC

I needed to tweak my hold down bracket a bit but this Noco NLX24 look and fits great! Yes, it’s a Group 24 but the top is 12mm smaller in both directions so it needs shimming. I bought a sheet of 6mm thick rubber and sliced shims for the top, which I held in place with some RTV. I cut the leftovers into pads to raise the battery 6mm so the bracket is horizontal. Fits like it’s supposed to be there. I just need to get the ground strap back on, which will be a cinch since this has four posts. Good stuff.

I ordered them from Godzilla Raceworks about 4 years ago. The distribution center/configuration department is in Orlando Fl. I received them in less than a week since I’m right next door so to speak. Godzilla originally said it might be a few weeks if they didn’t have the Swift springs in stock. The paper work/instructions were very thorough. I disassembled the shocks and cut the tubes. Took them to the metal fabricator next door and he welded them for me. Can’t remember if it’s front or rear but it’s crucial because they were marked L/R.

I had to educate myself on Swift springs. Found this helpful. Sounds to me like it would be worth the extra cost. Found this one with good Coilover 101 info too.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/9457218524394324/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking=%7B%22qid%22%3A%22-82326136670945814%22%2C%22mf_story_key%22%3A%2275032482911560762%22%2C%22top_level_post_id%22%3A%2275032482911560762%22%2C%22commerce_rank_obj%22%3A%22%7B%5C%22target_id%5C%22%3A75032482911560762%2C%5C%22target_type%5C%22%3A6%2C%5C%22primary_position%5C%22%3A1%2C%5C%22ranking_signature%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22commerce_channel%5C%22%3A1000%2C%5C%22value%5C%22%3A0%2C%5C%22upsell_type%5C%22%3A103%2C%5C%22candidate_retrieval_source_map%5C%22%3A%7B%5C%2229969350039319002%5C%22%3A3099%2C%5C%229321956344592424%5C%22%3A3099%2C%5C%229385868504802216%5C%22%3A3099%7D%2C%5C%22grouping_info%5C%22%3Anull%7D%22%2C%22lightning_feed_qid%22%3A%22-82370666948524824%22%2C%22lightning_feed_ranking_signature%22%3A%22374976621229495474%22%7D

The reason I originally went with coil over shocks was I removed the ridicules bumpers off of my 78 280z and replaced with them with the 240 series style. I removed the bumpers/crash absorbers and that weight itself, with the stronger springs allowed the car to raise well over 2”. I could have gone in a different direction but the coil overs gave me the opportunity to dial in the height. The Swift springs from Japan gave it a softer ride. It handles great and glad I went the route I did. Considerable fabrication involved. IMO well worth it.

Do you like them? Is it a noticeable upgrade?

$100 each sounds like a bargain! Good luck with the Spring cleaning.

Yeah interesting to watch your baby during this auction! Hope you can get to the reserve mark. A few more days to know for sure! But hey I am partial to the color... not sure what this guy has against yellow.. lol

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167422525202 Mount Spacer Reproduction parts for both sides. Replaces the below OEM 96404-E8700 RH aka 96404-E4100 96405-E8700 LH aka 96405-E4100

Ok, I solved the second one https://www.amazon.com/OAUTOO-165pcs-Assortment-Chrysler-Toyota/dp/B0C5VB83XN/ref=asc_df_B0C5VB83XN?mcid=52195ebd89f3349f9f7232da7174862d&hvocijid=13820313418102357919-B0C5VB83XN-&hvexpln=73&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=721245378154&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13820313418102357919&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010452&hvtargid=pla-2281435179258&psc=1 Any ideas on the first problem??

That’s the idea! I was given one of theirs jump starters as a joke/gift a while ago. It is kind of amazing. I picked this up with their Genius 10 trickle charger, which will work through the cigar lighter in cars where it’s not switched.

Sweet!

A friend sent me a link to this 432 for sale. https://www.beforward.jp/nissan/fairlady-z/bx082542/id/10304275/ I would appreciate @kats and @HS30-H commenting on this one. I'm surprised at how few photos and most of poor quality for a 432. Does it look like a legitimate 432? Is this where the market is on 432s now?

Hi, I wondered myself many times what is that wide red stripe (as big as the 2 of your stripes together) and it's still a mistery, i would LOVE TO FIND OUT! I have never seen your combination of red and (what once was) white.. I asked it here on the forum and there was never a answer. Nobody knows.. Maybe it has to do with the composition of the metal of the camshaft. I think D1 (on the rear end) stands for a standard camshaft in 1972 datsun 240z's ?

Okay, auction going live today Friday 3/28 at Hemmings.com and ending Friday April 4 at 6PM. Check it out!

One of the cars I worked on this winter have an older set of Z-Therapy rebuilds on it, so when I got to the point of putting the carbs back on, I didn’t look too closely for problems. But as I was syncing and setting up mixture etc, the engine would randomly change idle, always upward and sit there unstable as hell. Blip the throttle, fool with the choke and it would settle down. Then off it would go again with very little provocation. Finally realized I was just grazing the little fuel hose on the bottom with a tool or finger while working on them, it would set the idle off on one of its fits. What I was doing was shifting the nozzle around in its tube, creating clearance and a vacuum leak when it sat just so. I’m waiting for new nozzles from Z-therapy now, should solve the issue. The back carb is much better and doesn’t exhibit this behavior. Other carb sets I have laying around, from which I was going to snitch parts, are all worse. The nozzles literally rattle around in the tube. So expand your mantra when you help yourself or others decide on SU quality and vacuum leaks. It’s not just them shafts that get worn.

I used a 6" cotton polishing wheel (from Harbor Freight) on my bench grinder which turns at 3500 rpm. The polishing compound is the "Brown" compound also from Harbor Freight. I was a little worried about burning, but it didn't seem to be an issue at all. There was no paint involved, just sanding and polishing.