jcdozier

2ManyZs is asking the right question - what kind of oil are you using? halz's explanation of viscosity change applies to single-weight oils only. If you are using a multi-grade oil, you shouldn't see a significant pressure change with temperature change. A 10W30 oil, for example, will "act like" 10W at cold temperatures and like 30W at operating temperatures. That "constant viscosity" quality is why multi-grade oils are recommended by the manufacturers for four-cycle engines. Single-grade oils are typically used only in two-cycle engines (lawn mowers, etc.) or for special applications. I agree with 2ManyZs that a 10-20 psi drop indicates an internal problem that should be checked out before something bad happens.

I replaced the old points-type distributor in my 71 auto-trans 240-Z with a Mallory Unilite distributor. No change to the timing was required. As part of the conversion, I also installed a Mallory Promaster ignition coil and a set of Mallory's spiral-core, suppression-type spark plug wires, (I think their brand name was Sidewinder). Installation instructions provided with the distributor and coil were clear enough for a bonehead like me to follow, and the car has run well - once we remembered to re-connect that little green-white wire, the tachometer even worked.

As I read your post, the 1-2-3 cylinders have good compression, strong spark, dry plugs with no smell of gasoline. That all sounds like no fuel is getting to the cylinders. Air flow through the front carb doesn't necessarily mean there is also fuel flow. That the 4-5-6 cylinders are running well says the timing probably isn't the major culprit. I suggest checking the fuel lines to the front carb and the carb itself.

Alfadog: The storage bins do point to a Type-II car, despite the 1970 registration. As EScanlon noted in an earlier post, "Items or features of the car that are not easily removed or replaced are easier to use to "type" the car than items that are a known weak spot and hence easily and commonly replaced". When one considers what is more easily replaced, items such as the rear hatch, the seats, the doors and the center console do come to mind. The interior rear deck, where the bins are, doesn't seem as likely a replacement. Since you haven't been able to locate the MVSS tag that lists the build date, (perhaps an indication that the quarter panel, including the door pillar, has been replaced??) I guess all one has to go on is the "replacement logic". I suggest you check the door detents. pillar vents, retractor pockets and the vapor recovery tank. Then look at how many, (and what kind of) Type-I and Type-II "indicators" you have and make your judgment call. Good luck.

Alfadog - I don't know about the right-hand-drive models, but the Zs here have a metal plate above the door latch on the driver's side that has the build date on it. EScanlon - looks like you understand some of us aren't real bright and have some bad habits - thanks for your patience. Your "registered as 1970" logic parallels mine - if Type-IIs weren't built until 1971, then a 1970 MUST be a Type-I, (or rather, started life as a Type-I). Your point about replacement parts is well taken. I know my Type-I has had a number of parts replaced that weren't from another Type-I. If Alfadog can't find a build date, perhaps some guru like Carl Beck can shed some light using the serial number?

I've added my $20 to Mike's fund, and I like EScanlon's suggestion that donors be identified, either by the "Supporting Member" tag or some special icon. However, I suggest we make sure we don't do anything that looks like we're creating an elite clique here, something that might discourage new members. What may be "Hey, it's only $20" to some could be "Holy Mackerel - $20?!?!" to others. I place much more importance on growing and maintaining an active membership participation than on some personal ego boost, and I suspect that thought is shared by most of us. I think we should by very clear that the $20 is a VOLUNTARY DONATION and not a membership requirement. I also think we should clearly point out that paying the $20 doesn't get the donor any special privileges other than the identifier on his or her member heading. Enuf' Soapbox.

Perhaps someone else knows a high-tech and/or easy way to check for cracks, but I used the old-fashioned Mark-I eyeball on my 240-Z. Put it up on jack stands, crawled underneath and started cleaning/inspecting. One of my sons and I did a "running-gear re-furbish" last summer. We pulled darned-near everything out from under the Z, cleaned everything up, replaced all the old rubber bushings with polyurethane, swapped out the 30-year-old springs (Suspension Techniques), replaced strut inserts (Tokiko), etc. and painted everything that didn't breathe. With everything out but the engine and transmission, I was able to inspect the underside pretty well. I know there has to be a better way than the Mark-I eyball method. Thanks for asking the question - I'm looking forward to the answers from the pros.

ALFADOG: Just when I'm getting comfortable with right-hand-drive Zs (HS designators instead of HSL) having their "own" serial numbers, you tell us your 240-Z is a Type II. Your Profile lists a 1970 240-Z. Since the Type-I Zs were built into early 1971, I'm getting confused. It has long been my understanding that ALL 1969 and 1970 Zs were Type-I. My Type-I 1971 240-Z (HLS30-17559) was built in 12/70. Do you have more than one 240-Z? Am I wrong in thinking that all 1970 240-Zs are Type-I? This isn't some kind of metric thing, is it?

XYZ: The Z caliper has two pistons - one for each pad - the Toyota 4WD caliper has four pistons. The calipers you want for the "upgrade" are from 1979-84 Toyota 4WD trucks. The swap requires cutting the backing plate (also called the splash plate?), which I did with a Dremel tool. The "S"-shaped brake lines on the caliper will also have to be bent slightly to line up with the brake hose bracket - not a problem so long as you do it slowly and carefully. I did not change out the rotor - I don't race or autocross, so I don't need the additional heat dissipation provided by slotted or drilled rotors. I did change out the rubber brake hoses to steel braided hose, but only because I wanted the stiffer feel. There is a good brake article, including the 4WD conversion, on the Z-Car Club of Washington's web site. Go to www.zccw.org/tech/ then open the "Brake System" section and click on "Z-Car Brake Systems & Modifications".

In reading through the posts, I note 2MANYZS comments about brakes. I did the upgrade to Toyota 4WD front calipers last year. It's a simple upgrade, even for the mechanically-challenged like me and doesn't have to cost much either. MSA now has an upgrade "kit" for about $300, but I just got used calipers from a Toyota 2WD truck and rebuilt them. Used calipers, new seals, etc. and I was still under $150. The caliper upgrade was part of a general suspension "project" in which we replaced the springs, the strut inserts and all of the old rubber bushings with polyurethane bushings. The 1971 240-Z handles much better now. JIM DOZIER

In addition to EScanlon's response, I have had a couple of direct responses as well. One suggests a problem between the positive connector on the coil and the tachometer, the other suggests the diode in the tach is shot. This is a warmer-weather problem, but I will post the fix when I get it done. Thanks for the input.

I also agree with 2MANYZS. Since you're already painting exposed undersurfaces with POR-15, why not continue on to the fender wells too? The only rust my 1971 240-Z has ever had has been in the fender-well area. (Just a personal preference, but I think black looks good in the fender well.) JIM DOZIER

My Type-I 240 is still the original "gold" - often referred to as "mustard". Not what I would have chosen had I bought it new, but after a few years I have come to like it. My boys still laugh and say it looks the color of something found in a baby's diaper, but they don't get to drive it. JIM DOZIER

The tachometer on my 240-Z maxes out (i.e., 8000 RPM) when the ignition is turned on. Reads zero when ignition switch is in the "off" or the "acc" position. I suspect a grounding problem, but haven't yet begun the search (it's mid-forties and windy here today). Whilst I wait for a warmer day, has anyone had (and fixed) this problem? BTW, the car has a Mallory electronic ignition - has been working well for months. JIM DOZIER

In his ZTherapy video-tape, Scott Bruning offers a simple, no-tools method of setting the needle "height". Insert the needle with "excessive" shoulder exposed and tighten the set screw just enough to hold it in place. Put the piston in place and press down until it bottoms out - the needle will bottom out and slide up in the piston to the "correct" position. Carefully remove the piston and tighten the set screw. I use this method with my SU's and the car runs great.