jcdozier

High miles. Burns oil. Sorry, but IMHO that isn't much to go on for a vote, much less a recommendation for spending big bucks. I agree with 2ManyZs and suggest you do a little "investigative" work before you decide where to spend your money. The questions about originality and about engine numbers are important to a lot of folks, including potential buyers down the road. Personally, I don't care about restoring my 240 to original condition - I'd rather make the occasional "improvement". However, I've stayed with the original engine only because it's an original numbers match (convoluted logic perhaps, but then I don't usually care what any one else thinks about what I do or why I do it). High milage suggests 2ManyZs analysis is correct and you'll need to do some piston/rings/cylinder work. There is an outside chance the oil consumption is mostly due to worn valve seals - a thorough compression test (dry and wet) can give you an indication. Put some oil in the cylinders, and if the "wet" test is better than the dry test, you may be able to save some bucks by just doing the head work. (If I'm wrong here, I'm sure several other members will weigh in with corrections.) JIM DOZIER

I've had two cars shipped coast-to-coast (CA to SC) and the cost was $800 for the '71 Z and around $900 for the '67 Mustang. You can search the web and find several auto movers to choose from - sorry, but I don't remember the two different ones we used . JIM DOZIER

Royce's idea of adding a gallon of old gas to a tankful is a good way to work down your "old inventory", but take heed of his recommendation - DO NOT recyle if you have a fuel injected car. "Old" gasoline gets its distinctive smell from the absence of the lighter, more volatile components - they evaporate over time. Moreover, some of the additives degrade and can lead to gummy deposits. One gallon (no more) in a tank of "fresh" gasoline will be diluted enough to eliminate problems in the relatively larger "openings" present in a normally-aspirated intake system. I wouldn't take the chance with fuel injection. JIM DOZIER

Ditto 2ManyZs on the adjustable strut inserts - they're an unnecessary expense for a non-track Z. (I have non-adjustable Tokikos on my '71 Z.) You may want to consider replacing all of the old rubber suspension and steering bushings with polyeurethane. The poly will give a slightly stiffer ride, but the overall handling improvement is more than worth the trade-off - and IMHO they will meet your "firm but not harsh" criteria. Once installed, you can forget about replacing them for years and years and....... JIM DOZIER

I use a dash cover. Don't have a source - one of my sons gave it to me. Held in place with velcro strips. My seats were garbage when I got the car, so I don't have an answer how to keep them "new". I have a friend that swears by (BY, not AT) Lemon Pledge furniture polish for his vinyl dash. Must be the lemon oil??? JIM DOZIER

BUMMER, Daniel ! You're right, insulation can work both ways. I understand the heat transfer "stuff" (I did stay awake MOST of the time in ChE Thermo class ) and also understand that the "heat entrapment" problem could arise. (Driving a hundred miles and then parking in direct sun for a few hours in August might do it.) However, I haven't had any problems so far. I agree about the intake heat shield - no Z south of the Mason-Dixon line should be without it:finger: . JIM DOZIER

Good job, Guy. BTW, the early Z's didn't come with the tank-mounted electric fuel pump, just the mechanical "sucker" mounted on the engine block. I wouldn't think vapor-lock would be much of a problem in the UK, but in the southern reaches of the US the 100+ degree days can cause problems. It may help to insulate the fuel rail - I've seen small-diameter tubing insulation on some of the auto parts sites. My '71 is a "pre-electric", with only the mechanical fuel pump. I wrapped the fuel rail with aluminum foil, shiny side out, ("real" insulation is on my to-do list, albeit near the bottom). Doesn't look very professional, but I don't have vapor lock problems. There is no doubt also a way to insulate the carb bowls, but I haven't tried. JIM DOZIER

After the new brake components, don't forget the seat belts . The windshield is harder than even a Z-driver's head . JIM DOZIER

I didn't know there was such a thing as a non-ineterference engine until a few weeks ago. Whilst at a Goodyear store with my son I saw a wall-chart listing interference and non-interference engines. Unfortunately, the early Z engines weren't listed, so I don't know the answer to your question. Since Goodyear had the chart, maybe your local dealer can answer?? JIM DOZIER

Like 2ManyZs, I didn't know there was such a thing as a non-ineterference engine until a few weeks ago. Whilst at a Goodyear store with my son I saw a wall-chart listing interference and non-interference engines. Unfortunately, the early Z engines weren't listed, so I don't know the answer to your question.

ED: 10pm sounds like the "graveyard" shift. I did that years ago when I lived in SF - north over the Golden Gate through Marin and over the Richmond-San Rafael bridge to the Richmond refinery. Going to work was a breeze (more than 10-15 cars, though) but the ride home with all of the folks commuting into SF was a whole 'nother experience. Good luck with the engine. JIM DOZIER

Daniel's post is spot on. All of those neato bells and whistles aren't much use when you're breaking new ground through the woods 'cus the brakes didn't work. A complete brake system "refresher" should be first on the To-Do List. It will likely be near the bottom of the Expenses List, and can be the best money you ever spent on your Z. JIM DOZIER

You can't "overfill" - any excess oil will overflow inside the "pot", seep down the sides of the piston, and be sucked into the intake along with the air/fuel mixture. (Another reason not to use brake fluid.) You can, however "underfill" and lose some of the dampening effeciency. OBTW, in addition to Beandip's and EScanlon's lists of bad things about brake fluid, it is also one of the best paint removers known to man. So, for those who like to paint stuff under the hood, there's yet another reason not to use it, (especially if you're like I am and often have the oil running down the sides of the carbs when putting the plunger in after "topping off"). I have used both 20 weight oil and ATF in my SU's, and can't tell the difference. Currently have ATF (I think). 20 weight is sometimes hard to find, but ATF is a great substitute. DON'T use a multi-weight oil! JIM DOZIER

A California freeway with "...about 10-15 cars in 17 miles."?? What time of the night do you commute to work? JIM DOZIER

Here are a couple more sites to check - both have "cars for sale" listings: www.zdriver.com www.zcar.com I hope you are willing to travel to get your car. Ones in "original rust and filler free condition" with a clean interior are apt to be pretty scarce in and around Virginia. It may take you awhile, but don't give up - it's out there somewhere. JIM DOZIER

I'm well past the 33yo cut-off (59), but I hope to have a few more good years - I'll need them at the rate my 240-Z "refurbish" is progressing. Joined the Navy out of high school in 1960 and spent 8+ years as a Common Enlisted Swine in the Submarine Force - SS-338, SSBN-625, SSBN-611. Sometime during my second hitch I grew up enough to know I didn't like being a second-class citizen, so I applied for college. Got my BSChe from Clemson Univ. in 1974 and went to work for what is now ChevronTexaco. After 25 years in the San Francisco Bay Area, I took early retirement in 1999. Currently living in Clemson, SC with my two sons - a senior at Clemson and a welding technology stident at the local tech college (divorced nearly 20 years ago, and yes, I was the single parent). Picked up my 1971 T-I 240-Z (built 12/70) in 1990 - it apparently lead a rough life. I've spent lots of hours "reversing" various po's work and still have some to do. Next "project" is to swap in a Maxima overdrive transmission. JIM DOZIER

The Z Barn (www.zbarn.com) should also be a good source for the fan shroud and the splash shield - I'm assuming you wouldn't mind used (and relatively cheap) instead of new (and expensive).

I have Hooker headers and a 2.5" exhaust system on my 240. - I like the sound. - The headers are prone to warp, (this isn't just a Hooker problem). - With a stock L24 engine and E-88 heads, the HP/torque improvements are minuscule. If you want HP/torque, look around for an L28 block and newer heads, perhaps the N-42. With that setup, headers and bigger exhaust systems will provide better performance.

I second 2ManyZs post. It looks really nice in the picture and 75K miles is a plus, but there are LOTS of good early Z's out there that can be had for much less than $10,000. What's $6.000 or $7,000 "special" about this one ??

This is a frequent subject on the various Z-car forums. Carl Beck has a nice write-up, complete with pictures, over on the IZCC site - look in the technical section. www.zhome.com

I just use plain old carb cleaner and shop rags (sometimes paper towels as well) to clean the linkage. For lubrication, I use the same lithium-based grease that we use around here to pack wheel bearings. The current can is Coastal Uniplex Hi-Temp Grease - I believe my son picked it up at the local NAPA parts store. (Back of the can says it is suitable for, among other things, backhoe hinge pins, so if you also have a backhoe.........).

Hmm, "...a belated mechanical sneeze..." isn't one I'm familiar with. If you hear pinging or a clatter, it could be dieseling. Since you're using the lower grade fuel, you could confirm or eliminate dieseling easily - fill the tank with the expensive premium grade. The higher-octane fuel won't auto-ignite and the engine won't run on without spark from the plugs. If it is dieseling (commonly called spark-knock), we can get it weaned off of the premium fuel over time by "dosing" the fuel with Techron. I don't use a lead additive in my '71 240-Z. However I do add the detergent additive Techron, (a concentrated form of the mouse milk blended into Chevron gasoline) every two or three fill-ups because I don't have ready access to Chevron Gasoline here in the hinterlands :mad: . To be open and honest here, I worked for Chevron (now ChevronTexaco) for 25 years. I took my retirement in a lump sum and rolled it over into an IRA, so I don't get any financial benefit from folks buying Chevron products. I use Techron because it is arguably the best intake system cleaner on the market. (I use either Texaco or Shell motor oil.)

To follow up on 2ManyZs post, if the car is NOT running at a normal idle, you may have a dieseling problem and not an electrical/ingnition problem. (Although the worse after idle than after driving isn't a typical dieseling symptom). Is the run-on smooth or rough? What grade of gasoline do you use? Do you use a fuel additive, such as Techron?

MIKE: You might also try the Z Barn in Maryville, Tennesee - 1-800-247-2795. They claim to have acres and acres of Z's. I've done business with them before and have had only good experiences. www.zbarn.com

I know I may be preaching to the choir here, but IMHO the throttle linkage should undergo an annual cleaning and re-lube. It's not good to just re-lube the moving parts - they should be cleaned off first. As we drive we get all kinds of crap, crud and corruption flying around under the hood, and over time the moving parts of the linkage collect a lot of it. I use a lithium-based high temperature grease, the same "stuff" as used to pack wheel bearings. With so many moving parts and connectors on the linkage, there are abundant opportunities for friction and even binding. One often overlooked potential source of trouble is the alignment of the plastic "cups" at the ends of the several linkage shafts (the ones the plastic balls pop into - I know here's a "proper" name for them but I forget the nomenclature). They are adjustable, and if they aren't aligned right they can produce extra friction. I had a misaligned one pop apart on me - suddenly having a "floppy" accelerator and no engine control is a sure attention-getter.