Nutz

I haven’t been on the forum in a while but just noticed your post. That’s exactly what I did. Looks perfect.

they are 5x14 . two are stamped 11-71 one is a 74 and one is a 75

i have a set of steel wheels in my garage if your interested. they are undamaged but would need to be cleaned up an painted matt

you may try replacing the rubber fuel hoses in the ingine compartment. I have a 72 and my hoses were so old they were letting air in the lines and the fuel pump couldn't draw enough fuel. I figured it out after replacing my fuel pump. Hope this helps

I have a set of front bumper guards from a 72. I would have to find them in my attic but I think they are in good shape. Matt

I had the same problem with my head light bucket. What I did was I used a very tiny drill bit and drilled numerous hole around the perimeter of the broken stud so I could pull it out of the fiberglass. Then I went to ace hardware and bought a metric screw that matched the broken stud. I then used a file to file the head of the screw into the shape of a rectangle so I could then use fiberglass resin to glue the new screw into the existing hole. The rectangle shape was an attemp to prevent the new screw from rotating in the hole after being glued in. I have had the bucket off numerous times during my current restoration process and not had any problems. Good luck .Matt

steve, That's just the kind of info i was looking for. Do you have the fiberglass one they sell or do they also have a steel one?

thanks for the replies, Nomake The valance on e-bay is the part I need but it is a little bent up. The valance can be seen from the outside of the z as well as from the inside when the hood is open so you would have to apply bondo to both side of the valance. 280z valance A 280 z valance would fit on a 240z but it has a slightly different shape, it has a cut out portion in the center that is not on 240z's. see attached pic. There is even a difference between a 260 and a 240 valance. The 260z valance has a much thinner lip on the front than a 240z.

Hey all, I am trying to locate a center valance for a 72. I have been watching e bay for a month or so with no luck. Also i have trolled most of the usual retailers of z parts but no luck. Does anyone out there have one they want to sell? thanks matt

stephen, I dont really have any advice for you other to say good luck with the issue. I am in the process of getting my car ready for paint and can tell you that adjusting the hood hinges where they attach to the body of the car should be your last resort. It is quite a process to get everything to line up once you loosen those hinges. I can also tell you there is very little forward/aft adjustment available by loosening the hood hinges. good luck Matt

Bruce My numbers are not set in stone. Also, neither are my su's.

Carl, The car is a rolling chassis. The car has been stripped of paint and has a coat of PPG primer on it. I am sure it will need lots of block sanding to straighten it out but all of the hammer and dolly work is complete. The underside and engine compartment have been completed. I would like to spend $3000 on paint and $3000 on the engine rebuild. Also i would like to thank you Carl. Approximately five years ago you were gracious enough to let me come over to your house for a half day to show me the inns and outs of z cars. We even went for a ride in your white z. I have been nutz ever since. Thanks for your help then and now. Matt Before during and after pics below.

Esmit208 Thanks for the reply and the compliment. It has taken two years to get the underside complete. I am anxious to move the project along. That shop sounds like what I am looking for. I will give them a call on monday. What did you have them do for you? Matt

Hey guys, I am looking for both body and engine shops in Tampa. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I am in the middle of a complete restoration of a 72z and want a quality paint job. Also, as far as the engine is concerned i am looking for a place that has experience with high performance rebuilds I have recently finished the restoration on the complete suspension and undercarriage and am ready to continue the project. Please see pics of progress below Matt

Thanks but I am really looking for a picture of the right rear brake line. Also, the 72 and 73 set up is different. 72's have the proportioning valve mounted in the rear as well. If someone has a pic of the right rear line even off the car that would help. Thanks

Hey guys, I need some help. I just spent the last hour looking at pics in the photo gallery without finding what I am looking for. I am in the process of reinstalling the rear brake lines on my 72z but cant figure out what I have got wrong. Does anyone have a good pic of the how the rear brake lines connect to the proportioning valve and three way connector? Thanks Matt

I am installing new wheel bearings in my front hubs on a 72 z. My question is what direction does the inner seal face? There is a grove on the seal and i dont know if it faces the engine compartment or towards the wheel. Any help would be appreciated.

thank you guys for taking the time to answer my questions. On the first stub axle did grind off the peened portion of the nut and it still snapped. It must have been already is a weakened state. I intend to have my engine rebuilt by rebello so I think the stock stubs should be adequate. I'll let you know what happens when I remove the other nut. Also, a pair of new ones would cost about 500 bucks so I would prefer to find a more economical solution.

thanks for the responses, Before I attempted to remove the hub nut I consulted every z manual I have about how to remove the nut. The service manual says to not remove the caulking whatever that means. the clymer manual say do not disturb the peening. On the atlantic z car website there is an informative tech tip concerning spindle pin and hub nut removal. That site recommends grinding the pressed part of the nut off before removing. I still have to remove the other hub nut. Any suggestions?

hey all, Ok, i could shoot myself for my latest problem on my 240z. I am undergoing a full restoration and I am in the process of redoing the suspension. Last week I was removing the hub nut on the stub axle and while attempting to remove the nut I snapped the stub axle in half. This by the way was after spending two horrible days removing the spindle pin. Does anyone know where I can get a new axle at a reasonable price? Thanks in advance Matt

Hey all, I have a couple of questions concerning the front control arms and their bushings. First, are the left control arm and the right one interchangeable with each other? I took my control arms to a local shop to press out the old bushings and i think they pressed in the new poly busings backward. The short side of the new bushing is on the wrong side. second, the new poly bushings dont have an outer metal sleeve like the original bushings did. Is that how all manufactures of the poly bushings make them? Thanks, matt

I should have also stated that I did not attempt to return the valance to bad dog z parts. I had the valance for approximately a year before I attempted to fit it to my car. I do not fault bad dog at all.

I bought a valance from bad dog z parts and it did not fit my car. I have a 72 but the valance I received had mounting brackets that were too narrow. In addition the valance had the previously mentioned small lip. I have no idea what year it fits.

Steve, Thanks for the follow up on the MSA headers. I am going to purchase a different brand due to your info. By the way that is an awesome looking engine! Did you polish the valve cover and carbs yourself? Matt.

The valance that I have has a lip that is approx. 1/4 inch wide. I am starting to believe that It does not belong to my car. It is not badly damaged but I would prefer to have an unmolested one. Matt