james240

I read a post some time back, can't remember where, but "Old Ford Blue" is about as close you can get out of an autoparts store. I found some and it matches pretty close to the original color. In the post I read, the writer was showing his car, and a judge had asked how he got such a close color mix to the original factory color. Answer - "Old Ford Blue" Zappy Trails:D

I was talking to a buddy of mine that runs a bodyshop school. He told me to just get the black ones, stick them in a block of foam with the heads out and paint them the color you need. He said it's pretty common for body shops to do that on other custom jobs. Now he didn't mention what kind of paint. Maybe someone knows what kind of paint would stick to plastic. I'm going to give it a try when I reinstall my red interior. Food for thought.

There is something about the V8 swap. I've been thinking about it for years. But like many others, I agree if the car is original and clean - preserve it's classic nature. But, if you have the dough, time, and know-how there's nothing so sweet as a big motor in a light car. Look what it did for the AC when Carol Shelby got a hold of it. I've seen some sweet, professionally done conversions, and would jump at the chance to BUY one. What I don't like is turning Z into a full blown dragster, all jacked up with monster slicks. It's like dressing your little sister in a leather teddy - it's not right to do that to a Z. :sick:

I like the idea of the calendar, tee shirt, plate frame, and the coffee mug. The idea of the grill emblem was also a pretty neat idea. James

That's a great tool. I need one of those right now. Kudos to the Z-Nut from St. Louis, MO.

Doug, I asked the same question a few months back. Ken laid out the part you need. I was told that the 5sp from the early 280's (up thru '78) had gearing that matched up better with the early 240s for what that's worth. I was also told that most 5sp trannys need to be checked out before installing them. Apparently, folks drive around in 5th gear and blow out some important bushings or bearings. Now a used 4speeds is reportedly less prone to this damage. Food for thought. Good luck partner!

Another suggestions along Graeme's line of thinking. I took a three foot flat metal bar, drilled two holes that lined up with two bolt holes on the flywheel, and let one end rest on the ground at a slight angle and bolt it to the flywheel. As I turned the bolts off or torqued them on, the flywheel stays put. Same as the man-sized screwdrive method just reduced possibilty of slipping. I hate bloody knuckles.

Hey, if carguyinok just clear coats his '73 over bright metal he could designate it a P-40Z. All that's missing is a Merlin 12 cylinder engine and machine guns.

Doehring, Greetings from Tennessee, You might find it interesting about the old ladies that I brought the 240 from. Their father was a factory race car driver for Gilmore Oil back in the '30s, so these gals were always "racer-babes". Hung out at all the big races and always drove hot cars. Although this car was not driven much, I get the feeling at least one of them "drove" the car. When I test drove it for the first time, this nearly 70 year old lady tells me "it drives real smooth right at 100 mph and needs to breath a little". She was right. Great selling point! Ga'Day, James

Actually, I'm in the middle of doing just this conversion. I have a '73 and I'm installing a '76 4speed. You don't have to cut anything. The fire wall already has an opening for the clutch master cylinder - just take the plate off and mount the master cylinder. You will need the clutch and manual brake pedals. Clutch hydraulic lines (be careful with these). I would suggest a new master cylinder and slave cylinder. You will also need the flywheel that came with the manual tranny. Change out the pilot bushing while your doing this (it's right there). The drive shaft might be a different length so measure it. The distributor on an automatic car is also different - suggest grabbing it also from the doner car. It's a big job - but not impossible. Don't know what the conversion will do to the value of the car. But what's the value to you in driving pleasure and availability of parts. My 2 cents

Well it's my turn, James Burns, almost 40 years old (arggg) and been in love with Z cars since my Dad brought home a new Ice Blue '77 280Z. Been hooked ever since. But I've always driven other cars and just wish about have a Z again. I'm a Safety Consultant for an insurance company and always drive around in company cars (currently a 2001 Dodge Stratus). Married, two grown kids, two grandkids. Live just north of Nashville, TN So in 1999 I get the "opportunity" to buy this very yellow '77 to "refresh" It came with a '76 280 parts car. So I dive back into Z-Land. Well the "Yellow" Z is to eaten with rust so I just sell it for parts but keep the other parts car for it's manual tranny and rearend. And then God shines down on me. I read this ad in the local small town paper -" 1973 Datsun 240 Z 38,000 actual miles - $4,500" Now I don't believe the mileage, but a local 240 is worth looking at. Come to find out the car is pretty clean, original, automatic (can't win 'em all), owned by two old ladies (sisters) from southern Oregon. No rust at all. The mileage is documented. Car runs great. I can't get my checkbook out fast enough. Currently this fine 240Z is getting '72 SU carbs (replacing Weber DVGs), electronic ignition, now has a manual tranny and R200 rearend, and getting a new paint job and new seats. Should be on the road by Fall. Good to be back in a Z ( if it's only in my garage right now)

Thankx 2ManyZ - I've already got the single point distributor - got it with the carbs. But it's questionable so I'm looking for an electronic ignition set up out of a '79+ ZX. Another question - When I change out the intake what needs to be left behind. The '73 intake is plumbed and attached to everything. I'm looking forward to a cleaner looking set up. Any suggestions appreciated. ps: Can't wait to get it going again - better carbs, better ignition, manual tranny - should be quite a difference

OK you Zed Heads, here's the situation. I have a '73, California spec, automatic (which is currently being swapped out for a manual). I'm replacing Weber DVGs with '72 SUs (I have the whole intake and related equipment). The question is should I just install the SUs on the '73 emission laiden intake, or is there an advantage to using the other '72 intake parts? If so which parts can be removed or replace with '72 parts? I live in rural TN and don't have to smog the car (infact the smog pump belt is not even on the car right now).

Don't you hate that. Makes you feel like your going to explode. From what I've learned. Z are like vacuums for smells both exhaust out back and from under the hood. I've heard you basically have to find any holes in the cabin and seal it up. That would include any holes in the firewall, under the shifter, in the floorboards, and naturally the rear deck (primarily for the exhaust smells). As I've worked on my '73, I've systematically replaced gromets and filled them with silicon sealer. Now if you have a fuel leak somewhere along the line, it's going to suck it in. Hope that helps.