ktm

I had a set of Bad Dog frame rails and sub-frame connectors installed. They were installed by the late John Coffey when he owned Beta Motorsports. Z's are a little special with the floor pans given their unibody construction, so I can't really recommend anyone else right now unfortunately.

I had the reserve originally at $20k. If you were watching the auction, it hit $10k on Day 1 and then just sat at $10k until the last hour. Ramped up to $14k in 30 minutes and then sat until the last 10 minutes. Went from $14k to $17.5k in a blink and I lowered reserve to $17.5k. It then jumped to $19k.

Well, it "sold" for $19,000, so I would say that it did well. The bidding got really fast and furious in the last 30 minutes.

The time has come to sell my car and I have listed it on Bring A Trailer. The auction is NOW LIVE at the following link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-88/ It is a 1972 240z with an LS1 swap. Please spread the word if you know people who are looking for such a swap.

SteveJ, THANK YOU again for that link which confirmed my understanding. When i measured the voltage on the back side of the actual combo switch itself (not the pins), sure enough the right rear was 0 which confirmed the issue was in the switch. When I disassembled the switch, the right rear contact was black with carbon scoring and the rear rocker arm was not in contact while the front was. Some quick scrubs with emery paper and bending the contact fixed it.

Steve, thank you for that. It is as I thought (green feeds the T/S relay that turns to white that feeds the combo). I am measuring directly to ground from the input plug. I made a jumper between the turn signal plug and the harness plug and was grounding out to the chassis. It measured 12v when no load was applied and 0 with load applied. It is **has** to be the combo switch as the white wire is coming out of the T/S flasher to the combo. The power is fed INTO the flasher from the hazard. If all turn signals work but the left rear and I am getting 12v there, then it is the combo......I hope. I will look into tomorrow.

I am selling my Z shortly and am working out a last minute bug that suddenly appeared. The left rear turn signal voltage drops to 0 under load. I am getting 12v at the wire, but put a light on it and the voltage drops to 0. The hazards DO work though. As I look at the wiring diagram, is the path: Green from hazard switch into T/S flasher, white from flasher to combo switch, white/black to left rear turn signal? If so, that will help me greatly narrow down the places to check.

That is the one I am running on in carbon fiber.

As everyone has stated, just connecting the two wires together is your best bet.. Between the 40 year old wire, 40 year old connectors, 40 year old fuse box, and 40 year old dimmer switch, you have a lot of corrosion related resistance drop. If you are game, you can wire up a relay to the dash lights to help and then replace the dimmer with a new one, but its far simpler to just connect the wires.

Most "dual fan" setups are rather inadequate if you try to run one fan at a time. Believe it or not, most high horsepower builds (not just S30s) use the Ford Taurus of Lincoln Mark VIII fans. They are a two speed, single fan that blows around 4,500 scfm at hi-speed - nothing aftermarket comes close, especially from Spal (I used to run their dual fans on my L28ET build). I have a Champion radiator (build quality is actually quite good - I used to have an Arizona Z-Car radiator) along with a Taurus fan in my LS1 swapped 240z. I almost never have to use the high-speed setting, the low-speed blows 2,500 scfm and will cool the car down at lights. If I really need the extra cooling capacity, I wired up the high-speed to a switch. The high-speed is typically engaged (via the PCM) at engine temps over 220 degrees or when the A/C kicks on - I never see temps that high nor do I have A/C. As to your original question, my "thermo switch" is in the block - I put it in quotes as the coolant temp sensor sends the signal to the PCM which also controls the fan.

I used a nice, thin, adhesive backed closed-cell foam along all of the edges of the rear panels. I never had a squeak in 10 years after I did the install. Unfortunately, I can not find the same roll I picked up 10 years ago from an Ace/Tru-Value hardware down in Orange County and I am in need of it.

When it comes to the electrical aspect, that is how we all learned. I am out of my depth on 280z's as the 240z's circuits are a fair bit simpler.

It could be a few things, but both the wiper motor and washer motor are controlled by the combo switch. The washer motor using the push button on the end of the stalk and the wipers are the rotary switch. Have you tried unplugging the connector, cleaning those contacts, and re-plugging it back together?

Tomohawk, there are tons of options for lighted rocker switches. I swear by them for the exact reasons you stated. I pick mine up from an industrial/commercial electrical supply store called Orvac's. When I was running my L28ET with methanol injection, I had a rocker over the fuse panel cover to switch between timing/fueling maps. When lit it helped remind me that I was on my race gas blend map. The image below is a rocker I am using now for my high speed fan switch which is located on the passenger side of the car. I had to use the flash to show the rocker and tone down the LED. It is BRIGHT. I don't know about a dual colored toggle though. You might check out Waytekwire (www.waytekwire.com)