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I had a set of Bad Dog frame rails and sub-frame connectors installed. They were installed by the late John Coffey when he owned Beta Motorsports. Z's are a little special with the floor pans given their unibody construction, so I can't really recommend anyone else right now unfortunately.

I had the reserve originally at $20k. If you were watching the auction, it hit $10k on Day 1 and then just sat at $10k until the last hour. Ramped up to $14k in 30 minutes and then sat until the last 10 minutes. Went from $14k to $17.5k in a blink and I lowered reserve to $17.5k. It then jumped to $19k.

Well, it "sold" for $19,000, so I would say that it did well. The bidding got really fast and furious in the last 30 minutes.

The time has come to sell my car and I have listed it on Bring A Trailer. The auction is NOW LIVE at the following link: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-88/ It is a 1972 240z with an LS1 swap. Please spread the word if you know people who are looking for such a swap.

SteveJ, THANK YOU again for that link which confirmed my understanding. When i measured the voltage on the back side of the actual combo switch itself (not the pins), sure enough the right rear was 0 which confirmed the issue was in the switch. When I disassembled the switch, the right rear contact was black with carbon scoring and the rear rocker arm was not in contact while the front was. Some quick scrubs with emery paper and bending the contact fixed it.

Steve, thank you for that. It is as I thought (green feeds the T/S relay that turns to white that feeds the combo). I am measuring directly to ground from the input plug. I made a jumper between the turn signal plug and the harness plug and was grounding out to the chassis. It measured 12v when no load was applied and 0 with load applied. It is **has** to be the combo switch as the white wire is coming out of the T/S flasher to the combo. The power is fed INTO the flasher from the hazard. If all turn signals work but the left rear and I am getting 12v there, then it is the combo......I hope. I will look into tomorrow.

I am selling my Z shortly and am working out a last minute bug that suddenly appeared. The left rear turn signal voltage drops to 0 under load. I am getting 12v at the wire, but put a light on it and the voltage drops to 0. The hazards DO work though. As I look at the wiring diagram, is the path: Green from hazard switch into T/S flasher, white from flasher to combo switch, white/black to left rear turn signal? If so, that will help me greatly narrow down the places to check.

That is the one I am running on in carbon fiber.

As everyone has stated, just connecting the two wires together is your best bet.. Between the 40 year old wire, 40 year old connectors, 40 year old fuse box, and 40 year old dimmer switch, you have a lot of corrosion related resistance drop. If you are game, you can wire up a relay to the dash lights to help and then replace the dimmer with a new one, but its far simpler to just connect the wires.

Most "dual fan" setups are rather inadequate if you try to run one fan at a time. Believe it or not, most high horsepower builds (not just S30s) use the Ford Taurus of Lincoln Mark VIII fans. They are a two speed, single fan that blows around 4,500 scfm at hi-speed - nothing aftermarket comes close, especially from Spal (I used to run their dual fans on my L28ET build). I have a Champion radiator (build quality is actually quite good - I used to have an Arizona Z-Car radiator) along with a Taurus fan in my LS1 swapped 240z. I almost never have to use the high-speed setting, the low-speed blows 2,500 scfm and will cool the car down at lights. If I really need the extra cooling capacity, I wired up the high-speed to a switch. The high-speed is typically engaged (via the PCM) at engine temps over 220 degrees or when the A/C kicks on - I never see temps that high nor do I have A/C. As to your original question, my "thermo switch" is in the block - I put it in quotes as the coolant temp sensor sends the signal to the PCM which also controls the fan.

I used a nice, thin, adhesive backed closed-cell foam along all of the edges of the rear panels. I never had a squeak in 10 years after I did the install. Unfortunately, I can not find the same roll I picked up 10 years ago from an Ace/Tru-Value hardware down in Orange County and I am in need of it.

When it comes to the electrical aspect, that is how we all learned. I am out of my depth on 280z's as the 240z's circuits are a fair bit simpler.

It could be a few things, but both the wiper motor and washer motor are controlled by the combo switch. The washer motor using the push button on the end of the stalk and the wipers are the rotary switch. Have you tried unplugging the connector, cleaning those contacts, and re-plugging it back together?

Tomohawk, there are tons of options for lighted rocker switches. I swear by them for the exact reasons you stated. I pick mine up from an industrial/commercial electrical supply store called Orvac's. When I was running my L28ET with methanol injection, I had a rocker over the fuse panel cover to switch between timing/fueling maps. When lit it helped remind me that I was on my race gas blend map. The image below is a rocker I am using now for my high speed fan switch which is located on the passenger side of the car. I had to use the flash to show the rocker and tone down the LED. It is BRIGHT. I don't know about a dual colored toggle though. You might check out Waytekwire (www.waytekwire.com)

Great color and nice paint job! I would like to offer a counter-point to everyone saying 2-stage is the way to go. I myself was torn for a while regarding paint color. I knew what color I wanted, but I did not know whether or not to choose single stage (no clear) or a 2-stage paint. Ultimately, I went single-stage on my car because with a single-stage paint you can fix scratches by simply sanding and buffing the paint. You get a scratch in a clear coat that goes through the clear and you are into a re-spray. Something else to consider. I think that these cars look better in a nice single-stage paint as the lines help to accentuate the paint job or vice-versa. Once properly buffed and waxed, a good single-stage shines with the best of them. At JCCS 2 years ago, I was parked next to a hyper white (I mean WHITE, have never seen a white so white) Z. My car is painted Audi Solar Orange. Our cars basically resonated off each other and it looked like a scene from Tron.

I agree 100%. Then again, if you are not worried about 100% authenticity, you can buy replacement side marker lights from a Thailand vendor (and reuse your lenses and SS trim pieces) to "upgrade" the old wiring and base housing. Doing this combined with the LED upgrade is quite nice.

The fuse puller is attached to the case for the 240z. I have a new fuse cover with puller (old no longer available MSA model, or was at one time) that I've been meaning to sell.

Ebay. There are sellers in Thailand that sell reproduction side marker slights for a VERY good price. I picked up a set to replace two of my housings that were severely corroded. The stainless trim pieces are a *little* flimsy, but its the lenses that vary significantly. The OEM lens has special features that help focus the light (hard to explain, looks like a lighthouse lens) whereas the reproduction is just an amber cover.

Absolutely beautiful. Enjoy the ride.

Necroposting my own thread for a good chuckle. I just rewired the rear of the car; the front and dash were rewired 4+ years ago following a fire scare caused by a short. I spent 14 hours rewiring the rear and by the time I got to plugging the dome light back in I forgot the arrangement. Sure enough, I duplicated my same mistake from earlier....... A quick search on Google reveals that I do not learn from my own mistakes! FYI, no need to go with LEDs for the tail lights. I upgraded all my sockets to Dorman 85881's with dual filament bulbs and converted the tail lights to JDM/European operation, as well as added an additional brake light to the tail light only section thanks to the Dorman 85881 connector.

Yes, I was at the People's Choice on Saturday. It was a rather warm day for San Diego. Regardless if the engine sits higher, it is a thing of beauty to look at.

I did not realize that the Z432 was your car. I was at the show with my car (bright, BRIGHT orange 240z with the LS1) but spent a good 20 minutes just walking around your car. I was around when you started it up and the sound was musical. You have a very beautiful car. Thank you for sharing it with us.

John Coffey inspected my setup when he welded in the Bad Dog frame rails. I wanted him to make any modification necessary if he thought there were unsafe. John took a look at them and told me that they were fine. The forces you mention are large, but you are assuming that the ensuing momentum of the individual is being imparted into the seat. That's assumption is not entirely correct. The individual will be "thrown" forward until the seat belts lock. It is the seat belts that take most of the force, not the seats, unless it is a rear collision. Also keep in mind that the stock seats are mounted the same way. The flat bar just extends the mounting point for the front seats. The weakest link, just like the stock seats, would be where the bar bolts to the front mounting location.

Seat brackets I fabricated for the Miata seats.