ktm

He has completed, refurbished engine harnesses for sale for $500 or so on Ebay. Unless your car is going to be a Concours restoration, I would just rewire the car yourself using a Painless or EZwire universal kit. That way you can determine the power splices, the ground locations, etc.

Point of reference, I am putting down around 400 wheel ft-lbs of torque on a rebuilt head and unknown mileage block.....

It's Ruschman, not Rushman. He is a moderator over at Hybridz.org.

Isn't Sunbelt Performance Engines in the Atlanta area? They have race prepped quite a few L-series heads. They may charge more than you are willing to pay though.

The gauges look good. I was looking at Speedhut gauges myself, but opted to do the LED conversion route myself. Hey now, not all Grant steering wheels are bad.

+2 for Zbarn

You will have issues. I rubbed with 14x7 running 225/50s.

Complete LED conversion. Dave's (Zsondabrain) approach was different than mine. He replaced the light bulbs only and painted the housing. I painted the housings as well but placed LEDs around the perimeter of the faces. The two gauges next to the clock are slightly dimmer because the car is off. When on and the alternator running, all of the gauges have the same intensity.

This is with a 1-in. drop (Tokico setup):

srbigbutt, my 16x8 +10 Rota Grids with 245/50s and they sit like yours, but I am on a lowered suspension. I had to roll my fenders but I still rub on bumps taken at speed. I may try pulling the fenders a little bit to get more clearance.

You WILL rub when lowered, no ifs ands or buts. You may even have an issue where fender rolling will not help and you'll need flares. I like the look of the wheels, but 225s on an 8.5 is too much of a stretch for me on a Z. Still, very nice looking wheels.

Beautiful looking Z and 510. I am contemplating a 510 build, either a sedan or wagon though (may be easier for the wife to accept a 4 door). Like my Z, it would not be stock though.

Why.....why do people jump in with both feet and buy something without doing research first, and then come and ask if they will fit?! You deserve every hour of aggravation you are about to face. Chalk this up to a lesson learned in life. Seriously, research before you buy. Now that I've said that, I am going provide you with your answer. You are hosed with the 8.5 in the rear unless you are running stock suspension or coilovers. Even with the stock suspension, you are going to rub the fenders on bumps. S30s need about 4.5-inches of backspace for clearance. Your 8.5-in. wide, +20 offset wheels have (8.5+1)/2+20/25.4 = 5.5-inches of backspace. Rubbing will occur between the tire and the spring perch, regardless of the tire width unless you run spacers. However, your spacers will push the face of the wheel out towards the fender lip. Cool you say, well, yes, it fills out the wheel well, but now your tires are going to rub the fender lip. Time to roll the fender, but I have a feeling that this will not help as the wheel may be protruding too far out. At a minimum, you are looking at running 15mm spacers, maybe even 20 mm. The spacer width is also determined by the tire width. A 225 in the back may only require 15 mm, a 245 may require 20 mm. Now you are going to need longer studs. Anything over 3 to 4 mm spacer will require longer studs if you want your wheels to stay on the car. Your fronts are going to rub as well and will require spacers. Again, you will need longer studs. Also, the front tires will rub on the valence unless you are running an airdam. I am running 16x8 +10 Rota Grids with 245/50s all the way around. I am running a 10mm spacer up front and no spacer in the rear. I had to trim a little bit of the spring perch for clearance in both cases. I rolled my fenders but still rub on severe bumps. However, I am running the Tokico HPs and their progressive springs. Next year is coilovers and camber plates which should help.

Aside from the adapters, you can get the front hub from Turbo Z31's. You will then need the rear hub drilled for 5 lugs. The Z31 hub is +30 offset if I remember correctly. Do a search for more specifica information.

Yes. Not really.

Damn, I stand corrected. I must have read the link too fast. That is a great price for a set of 5 studs. You can contact Dynamic Autosport in Lake Forest, California and they sell the 50 mm and 60 mm 12x1.25 studs for $30ish for a complete set of 8. I tend to be anal about things. For instance, ALL of my bolts in my build are metric. Every, single one. I am not talking about replacement bolts, but even bolts for the parts I fabricated. The same applied to the wheel studs. I only needed front wheel studs. Why would I want to run two seperate sets of lug nuts, one with 12x1.5 and the other with 12x1.25. This is why I spent a bit more money trying to find 12x1.25 studs.

You are correct. It is not a drop-in and requires a bit of rewiring. The 240z gauge lights, for one, ground on the gauge housing. The 280z gauge lights have an actual ground wire that you need to connect to a ground. The ammeter has the white and white/red wires that connect on either side to show the charge state. When installing the voltmeter, you need to connect these two wires together, completing the circuit that the ammeter used to complete. You can pull your voltage source for the voltmeter off this connection as well. The fuel sender can be wired right up, but you will have to attached your own connectors. The 280z gauge has a plug with all of the relevent wires (lights, fuel, voltage, charge light, etc.) that the 240z does not.

Jon, I am not advocating paying $12 a stud, simply stating that the ARP studs are $12 each. Saying that, if you use the Camaro studs, you need to buy new lug nuts as the thread pitch is different than stock (12x1.25). The NISMO studs from Courtesy Nissan are $70 for a box of 10, making them $7 each. I bought some 50mm studs from a local tuner shop that specializes in Nissan and Subarus. I paid $30 for a box of 8. These were all 12x1.25 and had the correct knurl diameter and length. Stephen, I only called them "adapters" since they are identitical to the adapaters that change the lug pattern. I wanted to differentiate them from the slip on spacers Jon and I discussed (the thin disks). The spacer you have is rather thick, correct? In many instances, you may only need a 10 mm spacer for that +10 offset wheel, however, you will need longer studs.

Only if you are running those types of "spacers", which are, in reality, adapters.. There are other spacers that are simply metal disks in 3, 5, 8 and 10 mm increments. You can find them on Ebay relatively cheaply. The ARP studs are 11.99 PER STUD, not for a box of 4. Courtesy Nissan sells NISMO 50 mm and 60 mm studs, but they cost $70 for a box of 10.

Not true. I am putting down over 360 ft-lbs of torque to the wheels yet get 30 mpg when cruising on the highway. The new Corvettes are capable of the same. My 5th gear OD is 0.76 and I am running 3.70 LSD in the rear with wheels/tires that are 3/4-in. taller than stock. I am spinning 2500 rpms at 65 mph and 80 mph at 3000 rpms.

Yes, black plugs on 1, 2 and 3 are indicative of a rich condition. You may have enough fuel, but not enough air. You need to balance the carbs using a synchrometer, not "feeling" the vacuum. If 4, 5, and 6 look "new", then you are probably lean. The plug tips should be brownish. Do a Google search about reading plugs. There are some great photos showing what to look for when reading them.

FYI, if you do a search on 280z color wiring diagrams on Google, you will be directed to a link HERE for a full color wiring diagram for a 280z in PDF format.

Arne and Stephen, yes, my wiring is up to snuff for 140 amps thank you for your concern. Then again, I am not running stock wiring in my engine bay, I am running Dave's headlight relay, my electric fan, electric fuel pump, coil on plugs, and fuel injectors are all on relays, as is my 1000 watt stereo amplifier and my powered subwoofer. To head you off at the pass, I am running a separate ATC-style fuse box for all of my accessories, as well as a manually resetting circuit breaker before the fuse box I know what I am doing with my car and while I may not be as knowledgeable about electronics as Dave, I have a fairly good grasp on wiring. Furthermore, you best tell Zspecialties that they should not sell their upgraded alternators for Z-cars as well since the three of you know best.

It's not plug and play, but it does open up a whole new world of selection for alternators GM Alternator Upgrade, either 12si or CS144 It allows the use of GM alternators, and the modification I wrote up allows you to use the CS144 alternator, which puts out 95 amps at idle and a maximum of 140 amps.

bkelly, I am assuming you mean mine (engine bay). Thanks. It was done with a rattle can, as were the suspension pieces also pictured. Tip about engine hoists - CRAIGSLIST. A lot of people buy them new, use them once, and then sell them. I picked up a HF 2-ton hoist used only once for $60. I can easily get that money back, but I am holding onto it as I have found a need for it once in a while.