ktm

As stated earlier, I was pushing 30 mpg on the highway in my car with 3.54 rear gears and a 1978 5-speed. My AFRs when cruising are dead nuts on 15:1 and 40 degrees of timing (L28ET, 7.4:1 compression). I am now running 3.70s with the Z32 TT 5-speed with a 0.75 OD. I need to replace my speedo with an electric one to figure out my mileage, but I expect similar results, maybe a little lower.

Jeff, I liberally applied bearing grease to all my bushings, and I mean liberally. I have not had a single squeak.

Stephen, you are using a laser thermometer. That is the SAME THING as using a more accurate gauge underhood. I gave a very simple solution to the problem yet everyone seems to be ignoring it: a thermometer equipped radiator cap such as this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MRG%2D2471B&N=700+115&autoview=sku I said 5 degrees C as an example. The fact remains you can not tell what temperature the coolant is at with the stock gauge. Thermostatic switches on a fan are good indicators for the coolant temp, but not one of you as recognized the fact that once they switch on, you have no idea of the true coolant temperature. Put aside your laser thermometers and rely solely upon the stock gauge. If the fans are constantly running, you only know that they are above the off temp (unless the on and off temp are the same). Is the temp 180? 190? 200? The difference between 180 degrees and 200 degrees on the stock coolant temp gauge depends on which side of the printed F you are on. I was in a situation where my electric fans would not turn off even when cruising. All I knew was that I was above my on point. Turns out I was running at a steady 190 degrees which was too hot for cruising. It only stayed at 190 because my fan was on all the time. I then checked my cooling system and found out my lower rad hose was cool to the touch as well as the bottom of the radiator. Turns out my thermostat went bad. I never said anything about measuring the temperature to the tenth decimal place. I stated that I check my temperature with my EMS software when I know I am running slightly hot. Once I see what temperature I am at, I then do a quick survey of the cooling system (feel the hoses, top and bottom of radiator, check coolant level, etc.) if I feel that it is too high. I am fortunate that I have two sensors. Finally, he asked a simple question yet everyone is telling him that he does not need a more accurate gauge. He should not have to justify why he wants a more accurate reading. I love this site, but at times the nitpicking is unbearable.

You qualified your statement by the word "accurate". I was referring to using a second, more accurate gauge in the engine bay in addition to the stock temperature gauge in the car. If you can tell me within 5 degrees C what your coolant temp is with the stock gauge, you are better than I. I use my stock gauge as a point of reference ONLY. If it is in the middle, I am doing fine. If it moves past the middle, I know something is not quite right. At that time I fire up my Wolf EMS software and get an ACTUAL temperature reading from the second temp gauge in my T-stat housing connected to Wolf. I stand by my statement. If you only have a stock temperature gauge in your car, it is worthwhile to have a second means of measuring the exact temperature.

The second gauge is going to much orders of magnitude more accurate than the old stock gauge. Just because the fans are thermostaticlly switched does not mean that you know what the operating temperature is. You could be operation at 100 degrees C/212 F and your fans would be on all the time. All you know is that your fans are on, not what the actual temperature is.

Just buy the radiator cap from Summit Racing that has a temperature gauge built into it.

Naw, it's just excited that its got new shoes and exhaust.

When I spoke to MSA last about this issue, they said they only sell 2 collars, one for the 280z and one for the turbo/2+2. I do not have the part number. To play it safe, order both and use the shorter of the two. Like you said, dropping the tranny is only something you want to do once. I echo this sentiment, unfortunately I've had to drop mine 6 times in the past 1.5 years for various reasons.

Randy, I was looking for those same pieces for a while myself. I finally bit the bullet and bought the entire setup off of ebay.

Guy, you can use the stock fork and TO bearing. You can not use the stock TO collar/sleeve. The TO collar/sleeve is matched to the pressure plate. The 240z and turbo/2+2 collars are longer than the 280z coupe collars. If I remember correctly, most aftermarket pressure plates are setup for the 280z. When I installed my ACT pressure plate and clutch, I installed the 2+2/turbo collar. When I bolted up my transmission to the engine, the fork did not have enough travel. I had to drop the transmission and replace it with the shorter, 280z collar. MSA states this as well. When purchasing a Centerforce setup, the collar for a 280z must be used.

Correct. I am using the fork from a 1970-1971 240z with the adjustable slave cylinder, a 240 mm Fidanza flywheel, ACT heavy duty pressure plate, and a 1993 300zx TT transmission in my 1972 240z.

I wish this was my case.

Escanlon, I agree 100% with your recommendation about painting the housings. I converted all my dash lights to LEDs (not like Dave's, I used individual LEDs spaced around the gauge face) and I still painted the gauge housings. The gauge faces are lit by indirect lighting. Anything you can do to increase the albedo of the gauge housing the better. You mentioned silver paint and I agree that silver is similar to gray. However, there is Chrome paint that works very well. I used the Chrome paint to paint the inside of my front turn signals.

Funny this should come up. I ran into this issue last night when bleeding my brakes with a Mightvac. I put greases around the bleeder thread and around the nipple that goes inside the bleeder and it solved my problem. I was able to pull up to 25 in. Hg. vacuum without breaking the grease seal.

Gary, have you found that the 3M loses it adhesiveness when the roof gets hot? My headliner keeps drooping whenever the roof gets hot. I replaced the headliner myself a year ago and have used the 3M headliner adhesive (made just for headliners) with no luck.

Pop's Z, to simplify the whole process, just make sure that when purchasing the pressure plate you also purchase the throwout collar from the same model year. For instance, if you purchase a clutch assembly for a 1983 280zx, buy a throwout collar for a 1983 280zx. I would not worry about the "originality" of clutch components. They are wear items and subsequently must be replaced. Saying that, I would purchase a clutch assembly for a 1981 to 1983 280zx. It will bolt right up to your flywheel. I say this as you may have an easier time finding OE parts for the later model years. For a stock L24, the stock pressure plate is fine. However, FINDING a OE 240z pressure plate is another matter. The throwout collar is the KEY to a transmission swap. I KNOW this yet still fell victim TWICE (don't ask).

Incorrect. The collar has nothing to do with the transmission but rather the pressure plate.

I would agree with Arne. Fortunately these transmissions are relatively "easy" to remove if a problem does occur.

I should have qualified my statement by saying stock N/A L-series.

As a point of note, the 1972s did come wired for an electric fuel pump.

Walmart has them.

A 3" exhaust will net you nothing on an N/A car. Headers will net you nothing on a stock L28 N/A motor.

Backfiring out the intake is indicative of a lean condition, backfiring out the exhaust is indicative of a rich condition.

I now average around 30 mpg highway, 20s in the city if I keep my foot out of the firewall. I am running an L28ET, T03/04E turbo, Supra 440cc injectors, 20 psi, etc., etc., and a nice aftermarket engine management system. I run 40 degrees of timing at cruise with an AFR of 15:1 and overrun fuel cut (injectors stop fueling on throttle lift).

A quick test to confirm Stephen's theory is to cycle the ignition on and off (do not start the car, simply let the pump energize for 2 seconds) a few times. Fuel pressure will build up in the line. On the 3rd or 4th time, start the car.