ktm

Not true. Look up "air lock" on Google. What basically happnes is an air bubble gets trapped between the gas. Air is highly compressible and when the pump tries to push the air, it simply compresses it. I ran into this issue a few times with my car due to a low spot in my return line. I would lose pressure when the car was off and an air pocket would form in my line. I could not build up fuel pressure until I purged my return line of any gas.

Says who? There are plenty of people running over 300 hp without issues.

Just get a TRUE Nissan replacement clutch. Try Courtesy Nissan (www.courtesyparts.com) for the clutch kit. Otherwise I would look at ACT or Spec, but both of those would be overkill for your setup as would a Centerforce Dual friction. I am running an ACT heavy duty pressure plate and street disk in my car with over 360 flywheel ft-lbs.

If you are converting to EFI, you might as well go with a stand alone system like Megasquirt. Saying that, Stephen is correct in that converting to EFI is a lot more than simply bolting on a manifold and adding injectors.

Before I installed my ST bars, I reinforced the frame rails where the bars connect using 1/8" steel plate shaped in a U-section. The stiffeners slipped over the frame rail and where welded into plate. I then drilled through the frame rail and had them install 1/8" steel tubing between the top and bottom plates. I then ran longer bolts when mounting my front bar and attachd it from the top.

The clutch parts have NOTHING to do with the transmission but rather the flywheel and the relationship between the throwout collar and pressure plate. The same clutch, pressure plate and throwout collar can be used on a 1970/1 4-speed, 1972/3 4-speed, 1974 4-speed, 1976/8 4-speed, 1978 5-speed and 1979 to 1983 5-speeds. You must match the throwout collar (not the bearing but the collar) to the pressure plate. The throwout collar determines the spacing of the throwout bearing from the pressure plate fingers. The 2+2 fingers did not protrude as far as the coupe fingers and thus the throwout collar was longer. Using a 2+2 collar with a coupe pressure plate results in the throwout bearing resting against the pressure plate fingers. Conversely, using a couple collar with a 2+2 pressure plate results in the clutch not disengaging entirely as there is not enough travel.

It is common practice to use old pistons on a hone job. Rings, no, pistons, yes. I was thinking more along the lines of a simple honing, not a full bore. My apologies.

Sounds pricey for the work. The bottom end of the L28 is fairly stout and can last a few hundred thousand miles. If you are going through all of the expense of having the bottom end rebuilt, I would focus on the head as well. The head is where your power is made, the bottom end just needs to take the power. I paid $320 for my P90a to be straightened and rebuilt. A hot tank, simple hone and rebore runs about the same, $300. There is no reason to grind the crank if it is within spec. Pistons and rods should be fine too. It is a waste of money to buy new pistons unless your old ones show signs of damage. Always remember, parts is not where a machinist makes his money, its labor. Cutting you a deal on parts is just a way to make you think you are getting a deal. Honestly, there are better ways to spend $2000 on a turbo setup than having the stock motor rebuilt.

You really only have two choices of aftermarket sway bars, MSA and Suspension Technique. You do not have a choice of bar diameters with either vendor. The ST bars are 25mm and 19mm as Tom indicated. I believe the MSA bars are slightly thicker.

If you LOOK at the wiring diagram you will CLEARLY see the ECU pin numbers. You then trace THAT wire to the corresponding item and VIOLA!, your pinout. If you have always been around cars since you were 3, then why should you need to ask about transmission fluid type?

The friction disk on the 2+2 and turbo flywheels is the same diameter - 240mm. Arne is also correct regarding the TO collar and pressure plate. It has to do with the distance between the pressure plate fingers and the TO bearing, which is dependent on the TO collar length.

Arne, zmaster is misleading you on this one. He was REPEATEDLY asking the most basic of questions. He says he has a Haynes manual, yet he kept asking about the ECU pin outs for a 1975 280z. He was asking about the quantity of differential/tranny fluid as well, which is clearly outlined in the Haynes manual. I love Classiczcar.com because you guys know every intimate detail about the stock S30s. This is incredibly useful when it comes to the electrical aspect of the car. Also, this site is, in my opinion, more knowledgeable about the stock L24 than Hybridz. Saying that, the wealth of information contained at Hybridz is vast.

I am using an ACT heavy duty pressure plate and ACT street disk. I am putting down around 320 ft-lbs to the wheels right now, and once I finish my meth injection setup (waiting for the tank), I should be around 360 ft-lbs to the wheels. Great engagement, not too harsh, though the pressure plate is a bit stiff. I am using the 240mm flywheel for my turbo setup.

You do not need a stronger clutch, simply replace your worn out OE clutch. You are not making that much power.

If your 1976 is a manual, then you already have an R200.....

I just recently installed their CF Bre spook. Very good fitment and did not require any trimming.

You know, the responses to his question disappointment me. Why can't he do a burnout? All modern sports cars are capable of doing burnouts. Hell, many modern sedans can do a burnout. You treat the Z like it is a rarified object that should be coddled, or you think that it should only be abused on the track.

Carl, they have pull down menus that you select and it inputs the correct data. Block: L28 Crank: L28 Head: E31 Rods: L28 Pistons: L28 Late (this will be flat tops) Cam: L28 Gasket Height: 1.2 mm - stock gasket height

Carl, which is why I notched my battery hold down. I did not want the positive terminal coming in contact with the battery hold down.

I purposely reversed my battery to do just this, but the problem now is the poles are close to the firewall. You can buy a reverse poled battery to resolve that issue though.

I am calculating 10.2 as well from http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Stock gasket thickness is 1.2 mm.

Ace and True Value Hardware carry a decent selection of SS metric bolts as well as Class 10.9 bolts.

Are you running spacers on those wheels, because they look like they stick out beyond the fender.

I personally like the 260z 2+2. I would love to own one, but the wife will not have any of it! I already have one mistress, two would be too much.

As John Coffey likes to say, the 240z suspension has a lot of "stiction" (stickiness and friction). As such, it does not move as freely as modern suspensions. Larger diameter wheels with smaller sidewall tires results in a harsher ride. I've been struggling with this decision myself for a while now. I NEED wider tires in the back. I have NO traction in 1st or 2nd when I get on it and I am running 225s now. I've been looking into what will fit and I'll share the info I got. Stop thinking offset, its backspace, backspace, backspace (to quote John Coffey again). The most backspace you can run on an S30 with stock suspension to 4 to 4.5 inches. With a 0 offset, that translate to a 7 or 8 inche wide wheel. You can run a positive offset wheel if it is narrow. For instance, you can run a 6 inch wide wheel with a 25 mm offset, but the effect would be for the face of the wheel to appear sunken in the wheel well. Personally, for a street vehicle, I would look at 15s, maximum 16s. You want some sidewall to cushion the bumps.