ktm

The distributor can NOT be swapped over, not if you are going to use the 1982 or 1983 ECU. I have the intake manifold, heat shields, throttle body, fuel rail, FPR, etc. for sale on Ebay, as well as a 6/72 turbo distributor.

Why did you cut the doors instead of making MDF mounts in the kick panel.

Actually, installing it on the inner door skin is not that hard. I just placed the sheets over the entire skin and then cut the holes out with a razor. I did not use Fatmat, but I did not have any interference issues whatsoever with the door panel. The material I used was rather thin, but effective in stopping the vibration from the road noise. I also sprayed the rubberized undercoating overtop of the deadening on the outerdoor skin to provide complete coverage of the outter skin as well as address moisture concerns.

I installed it both places.

Tony D has been saying this for a while, and I agree. It seems as though a majority of S30 owners bought an S30 to begin with because they were inexpensive. They are used to the parts being inexpensive and try to do everything on a budget. This is not necessarily a bad thing. However, many of them also fail to recognize that there are fewer S30s on the road (qualified-see end of paragraph); that pristine parts are harder to find; that clean examples of early S30s are becoming scarce; finally, while there are fewer S30s around, it seems as though many of the once "barn-stored/back-yard stored/on the driveway under a tarp stored" S30s are finding new owners. All of this adds up to increased prices for cars and parts.

I am wondering about the wheels. They look like Work Rezax.

Mine were $80 because they only had 6-inch leads. I am sure that if I had longer wires they would have been significantly more.

Magnecor wires are not cheap and are made to order. I have a set on my car. Each lead is only 6 inches long (running COP) and the set cost $80. You use them for their shielding if you are concerned with EMF interference and not necessarily their lower resistance.

Once you throw on tires the incremental weight difference is not going to be noticeable. Get the wheels you like. If you are tracking/Auto-x the car, then buy some dedicated racing lightweight steelies.

Orange, CA? I work in Orange (Glassell and Meats) and live in Foothill Ranch. As to the wheels, I am not a fan of Libres (unless I am selling them on Ebay ) and I like the first wheels better. Slots over the D hubcaps.

running 225/50s.....will they rub the wheel well/fender of a 240z with a Tokico HP spring and strut setup? I've run through the calcs and measured the clearance from the springs to the front fender lip. I measured 10.5 inches. With 3-3/8 backspace that means I have 9.5/2 = 4.75 + (4.75 - 3.375) = 5.125" in the front. I am running 14x7 0 offset wheels now, which means I have 4 inches backspace and front. The wheels would be 1.125 inches further out than my current wheel. It looks like it will be tight in the front. I am not worried about the valence at this time. The rears are another matter though. I am not concerned if they stick out a little bit at this time. I just need to know if I **have** to go with flares to use them or if I can stretch/roll the fender a bit. I can get the wheels for a screaming deal - 15x8.5 Centerline two-piece weighing in at 13 lbs per wheel.

I have early gen Miata seats in my car. I love them save for the fact that they are a little short. The head rest only comes up to the middle of my head. However, the seats are quite comfortable to sit in and look great in the car.

Have you replaced it yet? I apologize for not replying earlier, but the site went down for a few days.

This is what I am referring to:

Hmmm, your timing indicator is on the driver's side? On both my old L24 and my L28ET, the timing indictor on the block is on the passenger side and not the driver side. TDC would be the TOP mark on the indictor. If the indicator is on the wrong side of the block, your timing is quite retarded.

Bad tie rods (outer and/or inner), steering coupler, ball joints, steering rack, steering rack bushings, front control arm bushings could cause a shimmy. Not without spacers. The stock offset is 0, however, the maximum backspacing you can have without rubbing the strut housing is 4 to 4.5 inches. The 16x7.5 +22 will have a backspacing of 7.5/2 + 22/25.4 = 4.6 inches; the 16x8.5 +37 is even worse with a backspacing of 8.5/2 + 37/25.4 = 5.7 inches.

I am using Dave's headlight relay (great product!), a 90 amp GM alternator, Performance Technique 500 watt 2 channel AMP, Pioneer 6x9 3-ways, and Alpine 6" kickpanel speakers. I had to go with a 90 amp alternator as I am not stock and running an electric fuel pump, electric fans, ECU, LS1 coil on plugs, injectors, etc. The turbo alternator was not keeping up.

....going to check them out tomorrow!

Have you checked your clutch fluid?

When are you looking to do this? I've done a few tranny swaps on my car and have it down to a science.

Stephan, I can not see the picture he linked here at work. I was simply stating what *should* be there, not what is actually there. I'll take a look when I get home tonight. Stephen posted an image that shows how to depressurize the fuel system.

The filter should be on the discharge side of the pump. The inlet of the pump has a mesh filter on the pickup tube. Both of these could be clogged. Inspecting both requires depressurization of the fuel system (but for different reasons).

There is no pressure from the FPR to the tank. There is no pressure from the tank to the pump aside from hydrostatic pressure (actually it is LESS than hydrostatic - there is a vacuum (low pressure) on the inlet side, too much of which can cause cavitation).

Diszead, your logic is flawed. Just because it is called Fusion does not mean it is an inferior product. You are correct, Krylon makes spray paint and they make a spray paint that is specifically designed for plastics. I had great success with Krylon's products and my black paint does not have any silver flakes in it at all. I have used Fusion for a few years on various surfaces (wood, metal, and plastic) and the paint is fanstastic. I used it on Pallnet's plexiglass throttle body spacer and it still looks "new". The same can be said for my center console.

het976, you could consider removing the metal dash "cowl" piece and repainting it as well.