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Edit: Doh, NOW I know what you mean by 'kit'. You are referring to the rear control arm kit. Brain dead moment for me.

Steve, I can buy the individual part from MSA if you want. You know I work right around the corner from their store.

As Tom mentioned, the modern EFI car is controlled by sensors more or less. The air flow meter and O2 sensor are only two components. You still have the throttle position sensor, thermotime switch and the cylinder head temperature sensor (CHTS). The CHTS is located on the passenger side of the head between the #5 and #6 cylinders (if I remember correctly). The thermotime switch is located in the thermostat housing. The TPS is located on the side of the throttle body. The ECCS is just a computer that controls ignition and fueling (basically speaking) based on a series of sensors (knock sensor, CHTS, thermotime, O2 sensor, air flow meter, TPS, etc.). The fuel and ignition maps are programmed into the ECCS. If I remember correctly, the O2 sensor only adjusts fuel in closed-loop mode. It is looking for 14.7:1 and will adjust your fuel accordingly (primarily during cruising/idling). You say it's puffing black smoke occasionally. Have you run a compression or leak down test? I am not trying to scare you, just trying to rule out other possibilities. If the puff occurs sporadically, good chance that its not piston/ring related. Does the car smoke when its warmed up and not when its cold? When does it smoke?

Those look like the reverse switch wires. Are there female bullet connectors on the end? Do you have reverse lights?

Beautiful color. The 240z has the curves to wear that color well.

"Any thing that controls both, not sure if the ecu controls anything on the fuel pump!" Only to turn it on and let it run for 5 seconds (at least per the 1978 FSM) if the car does not start. Otherwise is simply turns the pump on. The pressure is controlled by the fuel pressure regulator and the injectors control the metering of the fuel.

Ron, it is a little inconvenient but I get over it. My engine management system controls my fan. It switches the relay ground based on the temperature I set. I am running the Flex-a-lite 210 dual slimline electric fan. I can set my temperature point, so if I am finding that my fan is cycling on and off a lot, I can drop the temperature or raise the temperature a bit to reducing the cycling. While the engine may not get any hotter, the coolant certainly can and does. This is what I meant by keeping the coolant from boiling over. The moment you shut off the car, the coolant stops flowing yet the head is still the same temperature. Since the coolant is no longer flowing and the car is not moving, the coolant temperature starts to rise.

Carl, Shhhhhhh! It is a ball park estimate, but I know I have not spent less than that. ** The camera is a Sony digital camera, model DSC T33. Thanks for the compliments.

It's a Kaminari airdam.

I am running 15 lbs and putting down 289 ft-lbs at the wheels on a Mustang dyno. You can figure another 10% to 15% on a Dynojet (which most folks run), so 319ish ft-lbs or so on a Dynojet. I still have a bit of tuning to do though.

Yes, the gauges are from a 280z. I like the look of the 280z gauges better than those of a 240z, I also wanted a voltmeter instead of an ammeter. Finally, the 240z tach would not work with my EMS. I like the 'stock' look of the car and did not want to install Autometer gauges.

Here are my modifications: 1983 L28ET, Garrett T03/04E water-cooled turbo, Supra 440cc injectors, Wolf EMS, LS1 Coil-on-plugs, Flex-a-lite 210 fan, Pallnet fuel rail, SS braided fuel lines, Walbro fuel pump, 240sx TPS and throttle body, Tokico HP springs and shocks, Suspension Technique sway bars, Urethane bushings, 1978 5-speed, 3.545 differential, ACT clutch, Fidanza flywheel, 3-in. downpipe and exhaust, Borla XR-1 muffler, 280z gauges, quartz clock conversion, LED dashlights, custom knock sensor indicator, custom AFR indicators Pic of the engine before install It set me back QUITE a bit, if you include everything I have done (suspension, brakes, fueling, cooling, engine, interior, exterior, etc.). The latest tally is around $11k not including the car. Thank you for all the comments so far.

This is what she looked like when I first bought her (minus the Tokico shocks): Old engine New engine (older picture - car is running and driveable now) New car pics after Kaminari air dam install, rattle car rally stripe paint job, polished wheels, addition of spinners, and interior work

I have the Yoko Avid S/Ts on my car as well and thoroughly enjoy them.

I tapped directly into the black/white wire coming from the ignition switch. I then ran a line from this connection to a power distrubition block, where four wires then run to four relays (one for my EMS, one for my coil on plugs and injectors, one for my fan, and one for my fuel pump). "_ For the fan, I was thinking of wiring it direct to the battery so that the fan keeps spinning while the engine is hot even if I switch the ignition off. That's the way I used to have it, is that a bad idea? If I don't, then I need to find another switched to power, can I go in parallel (again) to what's above?" If it's a hot day and I want to make sure my car does not boil over when I turn it off, I turn the key back to the "ON" position and let the fan run until it shuts off. My fan is controlled by my EMS and is set for 180 degrees.

Rolf, listen to Carl about the tar mat. I have a 1972 240z that spent all of its life in Southern California. I bought the car from an owner in San Diego. All of the factory and aftermarket undercoating (Ziebart) was in great shape with no visible signs of rust. Howver, I did see some cracks after I got under the car and started peeling the undercoating off the chassis. I then saw some surface rust along the frame rails which I treated immediately. I am going to replace these rails in the future as my car is putting down considerable power now. When I bought the car I looked at the floor pans from inside the car and they looked GREAT. However, upon pulling up the tar mat on the passenger side, I found a 3 in. long, 0.25 in. wide rust hole in the pan right about the frame rail. The tar mat had lost some of its adhesion over the years and water (from wet shoes, rain, whatever, had gottetn under the tar mat. You do not need to pull the tar mat up off the transmission tunnel, just the floor pans. Please treat that surface rust NOW or else there will be issues in the future.

I am right around 20ish mpg right now. Then again, I also have a T03/04E turbo'd L28 fed by Supra 440cc injectors. This is mixed driving with some boost runs.

I wired up pigtails to each LED and then glued the LED to the inside rim of the gauge housing. The tip of the LED sits just below the gauge face. I then fed all the wires through one of the old bulb holes and connected them outside of the housing. It is much easier this way (I did the other way first and it was a royal pain). I kept the stock incandescent bulbs for the turn signals, brake light, and high beam light. I may convert these in the future, but the incandescent light works just fine in this application.

I went to a local hobby store and bought a clock kit for $13. I was looking for one that had a slim body and small hands. You want to make sure that the spindle that the clock hands attach to is able to accept the stock Z hands as well as fit the clock face. It's not as bad as it sounds. I then pulled the clock apart, superglued the quartz body to the back of the faceplate,and had to work on the OE hands a little bit to get them to fit correctly. I then bought a battery kit from Radioshack (basically a AA receptacle with two wires) and soldered the wires to the battery receptacle on the clock. The new battery receptacle sits on a little ledge adjacent to the glovebox and under the clock. My car is far from original, but I like the look of the Z gauges. I should mention that I swapped out my 240z gauges for 280z gauges because I wanted a voltmeter instead of an ammeter AND I prefer the more modern font.

For most of the gauges you can simply run wires directly from the senders to the gauge. Screw trying to retrofit a harness. As long as you have a wiring diagram and understand what the requirements are for each gauge, you can recreate a harness. If you have the patience, understanding, and, most importantly, desire.

I converted my entire dash to LEDs. I completely replaced the old lights with 5000 mcd, 40-50 degree blue LEDs. I placed 6 around the tach, 6 around the speedo, and 4 each around the other gauges. The picture makes the first two 2-1/16 gauges look dimmer than they really are. I also 'repaired' my clock by converting it to a modern, full quartz movement. I need to use a battery, but for the time it works!

"There was one brand (name escapes me again) who was significantly better but started at around $100 per set" Probably Magnecor. I am running a set of custom made set of Magnecor wires on my car. They came to approximately $80. The Magencor wires are GREAT if you are concerned with the spark signal interferring for your EFI (which is why I bought a set and those running Megasquirt also buy them).

The airdam costs $330ish F.O.B. You can expect about $80 to $100 for shipping.

I second Bartman's comments. I've been tied-up with all the fires in my area, but I did get the airdam on without having to do any trimming. The fitment is great. You do have to do a little bit of drilling for the turn signal mounting holes, etc., but that is it. The fiberglas quality is top notch, much better than the $200 kits MSA sells. I'll post pictures later this week when I finally get home.

I am installing a Kaminari front air dam on my car today.