ktm

Check your emergency brake cable. Eventhough you released the handle, the cable could be stuck. Since you are able to start the car with your transmission in neutral, it is not the clutch/tranny that is inhibiting you car. If the emergency brake cable looks like its slack/in the release position, you will need to check your rear brakes to make sure that they have released as well. Someone else posted a similar problems a few days ago. Turn the car off, put it in gear, and try to start it. If your clutch disk has become stuck to the flywheel, this may break it loose. It worked for the other poster.

Unfortunately Arnie, that would not be considered a 'mild' build for an L24. The poster asked to keep the price under $1000. The headwork alone will exceed that (and nearly double it depending on who does the work). The engine has also been bored over and parts replaced such as the oil pump. In all honesty, he would be better off buying a complete L28 or sourcing an F54 block/N42 head and slapping on the SUs. He will come out with money in his pocket and a peppy little car.

I am glad I clicked on this thread. I've been thinking about painting my Turbines just as you have. I still don't know if I like it, but at least now I know what it would look like!

You will not be swapping an SR20DET into a 240z for $1000. You still need to run larger fuel lines, electric fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, modified gas tank, intercooler, intercooler piping, BOV, intake, downpipe, exhaust, etc. You can figure $500 for the intercooler and piping, $600 for the exhaust and muffler, $500 for the fuel items, and $200 for the BOV and intake. I have not even begun to get into the dirty details. This is assuming that YOU do all the work save for the exhaust.

The engine still had the mechanical pump installed and no electric fuel pump. The wires by the gas tank are there still taped up. My in-line fuse holder was taped up as well with the correctly colored wires.

I'll post a picture when I get home. It's located behind the heater control panel/fuse box.

A nice 'performance' increase for a stock 240z is to swap out the stock 3.36 differential for a 3.70 or 3.90. You will certainly rev higher on the freeway and your gas mileage will suffer, however, you will certainly notice an increase in acceleration.

The Autometer gauge is probably accurate. If you are only showing 4 psi of boost, then you have a boost leak somewhere. Where did you tap into when installing the boost gauge? Off the turbo or off the manifold? If off the turbo, you may have an issue with your wastegate/wastegate actuator. If off the manifold, if could still be your wastegate/wastegate actuator or you may have a leak in the J-pipe or the two connectors (one to the throttle body, one off the turbo). The stock T3 is capable of safetly boosting up to 12 to 15 psi, but the stock ECU and injectors limit your boost to around 10 psi. Anymore than that and you will start to lean out. You can run up to 10 psi without an intercooler, but an intercooler is recommended even at stock boost levels. You will see a performance difference.

Carl, my May 1972 build '72 240z has the in-line fuse holder for the fuel pump.

I am running them on 14x7 Western Turbines. The sidewalls would actually be a little bit higher than 215/60s. The 225/60 tire is very close to the stock rolling diameter of 195/70. I have the tires on all four corners. Gary is correct about rubbing on the front valence. I do rub the front valence on sharp turns, the right moreso than the left.

Too much resistance in that switch most likely. The lights are drawing a lot of current through old wiring. You should really upgrade your lighting circuit with relays if you are going to be running H-4 lights. Your fuses are most likely getting very hot as well.

If you are getting a reading of 4 psi, the solution is NOT to turn up the boost, but rather track down why you are getting only 4 psi. Are you running the stock ECU? If so, then you should be getting around 8 psi.

Are you sure you have the firing order correct? It is 1-5-3-6-2-4. It sounds like a timing issue. I just went through this myself with my aftermarket EMS install. Three cylinders were not firing in the correct order but I was getting a fuel pulse. The plugs looked whistle clean and did not smell like fuel. Once I got my firing order sorted out it fired right up. Of course, I am using LS1 coil on plugs and using sequential injection/ignition, but the symptoms are the same.

The Yoko Avid S/Ts have raised white letters too. I am running a set of 225/60R14s on my car.

Screw painting the grill. Just get it powdercoated.

Chromed steel spinners. I am going to run them on my car (as shown in the pic).

Why get new injectors? Unless yours have failed, just get them cleaned. Mr. Injector on Ebay will clean all 6 injectors and provide you with a bench flow report for $70ish dollars.

Esc, I do have a serious amount of time in that engine bay and Matt is very well along his path. I have the fortune/misfortune of my L24 giving up the ghost. There are others that put mine to shame. We all do what we can. A great degreaser is Marine Clean. It is water based and does not leave a residue. There are quite a few things you can do to 'clean up' your stock engine bay. Rerouting lines, consolidating lines, painting/polishing the valve cover, etc.

Just drop the transmission and look at the clutch. You are going to have to do this at some point in the near future.

sblake, that is actually my car. Prox's car is red with a black hood if I remember correctly.

Looks better...keep working at it an it will eventually look similar to:

I managed to shear a brand new metric grade 10.9 M8 bolt in the same location torquing to the same specs.

I did not see anyone mention this important item - use a relay. I see someone mentioned a breaker and that is a good start, but you should really run the fan off a relay. That way you are not running the fan through your old wiring harness. Electric fans are high amperage devices (30 amps). It would be better to run all new wires, of appropriate gauge, to am from the relay. Speaking of gauge, make sure you are using the appropriate gauge wire as well when running the power wire to the fan. For 30 amps, I would run 12 gauge wire.

They all share a common ground, at least on a 240z. Your ammeter does not have a ground perse and your speedometer is mechanically operated. Your going to have to trace the ground wires to find out the problem (correct fix) or re-establish a new ground for all the gauges (easy fix).

"Another size not mentioned would be 225/60-14, which is good for 6.5" and 7.0" wheels. But this size is getting hard to find, and can cause clearance problems depending on wheel offset and whether or not the car is lowered." I am running these on my 14x7 Turbines. You are quite correct on all counts. I rub slightly on sharp turns and there are only a handful of choices.