ktm

There are two rear seals on the L24. There is the circular seal that goes around the crankshaft and the seal that goes in the block. If you have a rear seal leak, it is most likely the circular seal around the crankshaft.

I should say that I am running 14x7 Western Turbines shod with 225/50s Yokohoma's. While I stiffened up the suspension, I still have a bit of sidewall on my tires to help soften the ride a little. All in all it is a good setup.

I am running the complete Tokico setup (HP blues and springs). It was a huge improvement over stock and not too harsh for the street.

I installed your headlight relays a couple weeks back. I had to chase two bad grounds (on at the combo switch, one at the headlights), but I am happy to say that everything works, even after I bungled my attempt to remove the superfluous driver side OE headlight wires. Definitely a huge improvement. The car is still not running (installing L28ET with a Wolf EMS), but she should be turning over in a months time.

As some of you may remember, I posted back in April of this year about investigating having a manufacturing facility in China produce the hardline rubber support bushings for our cars. My wife works in the import/export business and has quite a few factory contacts in China. I had what I thought were good samples to provide the factories so that moulds could be made. However, the factories told us that the samples were too distorted and that they could not garuantee fitment nor the condition of the final product. This was 4 weeks ago and I apologize for not responding sooner. I've been completely engrossed in my build and forgot entirely about the issue until now. I am hoping to track down a good sample set to send back to them and try again, but it may be a while. I am making a hard push to fire up the car by October.

You can use a 1975 tach in your 240z. However, it is not plug and play. I am swapping in a 280z tach as well with my build, as the tach signal provided by my EMS would require a signal converter to work with the 240z tach. I figured I might as well eliminate my old inductive loop tach for a modern design, since I am converting to coil-on-plugs as well. The 240z tach uses an inductive loop off the positive side of the coil. The 280z tach uses a single line off the negative side of the coil. If your car is not bone stock and you do not care about not using original parts, you can use the 280z tach but you'll have to do a little bit of wiring. Chances are that the plugs will be different as well. I know that with the 280z clock, voltmeter and oil pressure gauges I am installing, the lights are incorporated into a common plug with the gauge inputs. The 240 gauges kept the lights separate.

He means a longer pivot arm below the pin.

For a stock L28, a R180 is fine.

Yes, this has been done before. You need to find a line that has a male fitting on one end and a female fitting on another end. I thought about doing this myself but determined that there is really no reason the remove the bridge line unless I was upgrading my calipers. HLS30, he is talking about replacing the bridge line with a SS braided line. Instead of running a braided line from the bridge line to the hardline on the frame rail, you would run a braided line from the caliper to the hardline.

If you are going to spend all the money on the bottom end, why are you ignoring the top end (head)? The head is where the power is made, the bottom end has to take the power. It would be a shame to do all this work and bolt on a high mileage head.

There is a company that restores harnesses and sells them on Ebay for $550 as a buy it now. They routinely sell the harnesses.

Not too many folks in Orange, CA? I beg to differ. Only one of the, if not THE, largest distributors of Z parts is in Orange. They are MSA and located on Collins near Batavia. I work in Orange and live near Irvine. Trust me, Hybridz.org is full of information. While there are many opinions stated on the forum, you have to do a lot of searching and reading to find everything you need.

If you are going to swap engines, check out Hybridz.org. There is a wealth of information on that site regarding SR and RB swaps, SBC and SBF swaps, L28ET swaps, and L28 swaps. As Gary indicated, the L24 is not able to achieve the horsepower numbers you desire. A simple L28 swap will not (easily) net those numbers either. At a minimum, you are looking at boring out to 2.9L to see those numbers. A stroker crank will push it out to 3.1L and make it a little easier. However, trying to extract those horsepower numbers out of a N/A L28 will be expensive. Remember, these cars only weigh around 2500 lbs. You do not need all that much power to see a significant increase in performance.

No. Sounds like either your engine mounts are bad (unlikely), or that you have a number of cylinders that are not firing. When I first picked up my 240z, I experienced the same issue. The engine mounts looked fine, so I started pulling plugs wires off the plugs to see which cylinder was not firing. Turns out I was only running on 4 out of the 6 cylinders.

I have my original parts that I am going to send *gulp* to China as a template. Some of my parts are in very good condition, others are a bit brittle and firm due to age. I planned on selling them as kits for the 240z first and see how that goes. I would then move on to the 280z, 510 and pickups. The hard part for these vehicles would be the samples. In order for me to get a good reproduction, I would need an actual sample set. I'll keep everyone posted. Given the niche market and relatively low production numbers, these parts would not be pennies cheap. I can see them selling for the equivalent for what the NOS hatch, firewall and floor plugs sell for. An entire kit would be a bit more. It is all contingent on the production cost for each piece though. Edit: Jim, I know exactly what you are talking about regarding the brake line supports. I too ran into that problem. Trust me, the new ones would be split. Thank you for your replies.

See my post in the General Discussion area. I am looking into reproducing the rubber parts.

Do any of you know the type of rubber/material used for the hardline supports on the 240zs? The reason I ask is because I am investigating the possibility of having these parts reproduced. My wife works for an import/export company that specializes in rubber, plastic and metal parts. She has an extensive contact list of manufacturing facilities in China that she deals with on a daily basis. I have already done the hard part - sourcing. I just need to run down the material type. I am looking at having them produced from an oil-resistant rubber. If any of you know the material type, that would be great. My wife and I have talked and she is optimistic that we could turn a small profit on these parts. Nothing to quit my job over, but enough to fund a few nice parts for the car. Cheers, Bo

Yes, it's true. When you fill the radiator with coolant for the first time, the coolant will only fill up to the water pump and to the top of the thermostat. The vanes on the pump will not move since the engine is not running, and thus you will not be able to circulate the coolant throughout the system. Also, the thermostat is closed since it is below its rated temperature. Once the car is running, the coolant will start to circulate. I do not know the volume offhand.

I've started looking for the same rubber (I have all the brackets and most of the rubber, but the rubber has gotten hard with time) pieces for my car. I've decided to just make my own.

"Use disposeable brushes." I use both disposable brushes and high density foam rollers. The high density foam rollers are the ONLY way to go for flat areas. The rollers hold up very, very well and I've never had an issue with them being chewed up. "If you let the POR set completely, then you will have to use the Tie-Coat primer as it's the only way to get other paints to stick to the POR." They have another primer that does not have the same requirements as the tie-coat primer - it's their self-etching primer. I used that when painting my engine bay with POR15 and then top coating it with another paint. If you are painting your chassis, etc. (outside), I highly recommend their chassis coat product which is a topcoat to the POR15. I used this when painting the inside of my tranny tunnel and it comes out amazing. I second the use of Marine Clean, though you do not need to use Metal Ready AS LONG AS YOU **DO** USE SOMETHING TO ETCH THE METAL. Metal Ready is simply phosphoric acid, which you can buy easily at Home Depot. I have used phophoric acid with great success on all my surfaces I painted with POR15. Marine Clean is a water based degreaser and does not leave a film. I am a convert with Marine Clean. I was using a regular degreaser, but spent a lot of time getting rid of the film after using it.

Double doh.

Edit to my post above. There is a third vent right above the fuel feed and return lines. The other two vents are on the 'backside' of the tank.

A leak down test is more accurate than a pressure test.

Since no one actually answered your question yet, here is how you remove the tank. It is very easy to drop the gas tank. Hell, I did it without any instructions whatsoever. It is very intuitive. Drain the gas tank first, even before you jack it up. Loosen the lug nuts on the passenger side rear wheel. You are going to need to remove the wheel to access the little panel that covers the filler neck. Then, you are going to want to jack up the rear of your car and support it on jack stands. This will give you the clearance you need to remove a few of the harder to reach lines near the top of the tank. Once it's on stands, position your floor jack under the drain plug. As with jacking on the oil pan, put a piece of plywood (or similar) between the jack and the tank. You want to apply just a litttttttle bit of pressure against the tank to hold it in place while you loosen the two nuts on the J-bolts. Remove the wheel and then attack the panel. The panel is held in place by 4 or 5 small sheet metal screws. You can see the filler neck now. Disconnect the fuel feed and return lines. This is very easy to do. Simply loosen the two band clamps and pull the hoses off. You may need to brake the bond between the hoses and the hardlines on the tank. Do this with a small, thin flat screwdriver. Loosen the J-bolt nuts but do not remove them yet. Slowly release the jack and allow the tank to drop. The straps will keep it in position while the tank drops. Loosen the filler neck clamp as well as all the vent line clamps and remove the hoses if you can. There are two vent lines on the rear of the tank, one up high and one down low (I keep thinking there is a third, but can not recall). The filler neck may give you some fits. It really helps to lower the tank as much as you can without overstressing the filler neck. This will give you some room to push the neck back and off the tank. Once all the hoses are disconnected, lower the tank to the ground. You can do this in about an hour if you take your time. You only really need basic tools (screw drivers, ratchet and sockets, wrenches), floor jack and stands.

You say that now. I am around $9,000 into my car and that does not factor the purchase price. $3500 for brakes, suspension, tranny, differential, general clean up, some interior parts, etc. $5500 for my engine build Next year I am sinking another $4000 for body and paint work.