ktm

It only helps at the lower revs IIRC. I forget the cut-off, but once you get above a certain RPM it stops the multi-spark. I see no reason to take it off if it's already installed.

Steve, that dealership has been trying to sell that car (second link) since March 2006. They were asking $9000!!!! back then. I see it advertised in Craigslist all the time.

First, why did you buy the engine and then ask if it is a good engine? In the future I would suggest researching before you make any purchases. The P90a and P90 heads are great flowing heads. They also have the advantage of having heart shaped chambers which lends itself to developing excellent quench characteristics. However, in order to take advantage of the quench, you need to increase the compression (i.e., shave the head, lengthen the stroke, switch to a 1mm head gasket, etc.) In you case, I would try to sell the P90a head and pick up an N42 or P79. However, the P90a head is not very desirable. Most everyone either wants the N42, P79 or P90 heads. As Arne indicated, your F54 block may have flat top pistons if it came from an N/A car. This is exactly what you want. I would be interested to know what they meant by oversize pistons. It seems strange that someone would put in different pistons but leave everything else alone.

Red_dog, the reason you don't like that place is because they told you to search. They expect people to search first and then ask questions. Yes, they can be a bit rude, but they even state that in their forum posting rules. They ask that people have a thick skin when reading posting/reading comments because some folks may come across badly. The best place for information on this swap is Hybridz.org, hands down.

There are a few shops in the Los Angeles area (assuming you are down this way) that specialize in Z cars: Pierre Z 12579 Crenshaw Hawthorne, CA 310-644-3645 Z World 406 N. Pacific Coast Hwy Redondo Beach, CA 310-376-8039 Mikes Z Shop 8858 Painter Whittier, CA 562-693-9914 ALTZ Inc 17082 Palmdale Huntington Beach, CA 714-375-5651 Dr J - Dr of Z's 7282 Auto Park Dr Huntington Beach, CA 714-841-0979 Datsun Alley 2202 E. 28th St Signal Hill, CA 562-988-0009 You could give them a call and get a quote for a rebuild.

Arne states that, "no one who had the Tokico springs (or other modern lowering spring) has the problem." ST springs are modern lowering springs. ST springs + modern gas charged shock = lowered car. Do a search on this forum for ST springs.

Not true. You need to notch the L24 block if you put on an N42 head. They may be talking about swapping on N42 head onto an L28 block. The valves are a larger in the N42 head than they are in your, presumably, E88 head. It's the larger valves coupled with the smaller bore in your L24 block that precipitate the need to notch the block.

....or he may have been reading the thread where Davidbu installed his springs incorrectly and had a reverse rake (front was high and the rear was low).

Your thoughts mirror mine. I would hate to get rid of it if someone else could use it, but I need to clear out the garage. The wife does not want me storing parts I am not using.

If you are using ST springs, you will not have the ride height issue with gas charged shocks. The height issue only comes into play if you couple gas charged shocks with OE springs. I am running Tokico HP blues and Tokico springs and my car dropped an inch.

Arne, do you think there is a market for a stock exhaust manifold (with injection gallery) that is in good condition? It came out of my car which was running very well until the head cracked/gasket blew/head warped. The manifold is not warped and only has minimal surface rust (So. Cal car).

Headers and an exhaust will not give you a "noticeable" increase in power. It's all psychological. They will give you some increase. I am of the school that the stock exhaust header is fine. There is no reason to upgrade to a header until you are producing more power. You can pick up a 2.5" exhaust from MSA for around $180. The only way these cars make noticeably more power is if you increase the compression, increase the bore, switch to flat top pistons, change the cam, etc. You can not simply bolt on significant horsepower gains.

Thank you!

An inquiring mind needs to know!

Alternator Wiring diagram (much too large to load the image): http://members.cox.net/bomccoy/240Z_Wiring_Diagram.jpg

If the throwout collar is too long then it will be pressing against the pressure plate fingers, which will partially disengage the clutch. Try wiggling the clutch fork by hand. If you can not move it at all by hand, then the collar is too long.

Just checked my coolant again and observed that the level dropped a bit. Rechecked my oil and it has thinned considerably. Looks like something is up with Cylinder #3. Oh well, time to accelerate the turbo swap.

Any update?

One of the previous owners of my car cut 6x9 holes in the two tool compartments. I am presently running a pair of 6x9 Pioneer three-ways in these holes. The fit is not the best and it is on my list of things to do. I plan on putting some Dynamat or equivalent in the compartments and on the underside of the compartment lids. I am also going to shape the hole better.

Wow, that picture really clears it up. As I see it, the R/L wire connects to the thin plate connector; the R/B wire connects to the wide plate connector; the B wire with the male connector plugs into the recepticle. Why doesn't the FSM wiring diagram show the R/B wire connecting to the light? Thank you for the help.

Test was run with a warm engine. I did not check the valve adjustment yet, as I adjusted them around 1000 miles ago. It is the first thing on my list to do tomorrow (ran out of time tonight).

Yes, 65. I put a teaspoon of oil in #3 (the compresson test results are from cylinder 6 to 1) and the compression only increased to 75. My car is not smoking at all and the oil looks fine. I ran almost completely out of coolant (another story) without knowing it. After filling the radiator back up with coolant, I drove 35 miles home and the coolant level did not drop at all. There are no other signs of a blown head gasket or cracked head. Any thoughts?

I recently purchased a new dome light to finish off the interior of my Z. The car did not come with a dome light when I bought it. I have power to the correct wires per the FSM wiring diagram (R/L wire - constant 12V) and there is a ground with a female plate connector in the same harness, as well as a R/B wire (ignition 12V). The dome light I bought from MSA has two female plate connectors. If I hook up the connectors to the R/L and I ground the other, the light turns on - a good sign. However, I can not turn the light off by pushing on the dome light. The light only has two plate connectors. By looking at the switch mechanism, it appears as though I should be able to hook another ground up but there is not a connection. Anyone else have a similar experience?

I would get a proper set of ball joints. They are not that expensive.

You got a PM about the gas tank. If you could supply a photo as well I would appreciate it.