ktm

Toecutter, I truly wish that the car was mine. It is an absolute beauty though. It is one of the few Zs with stripes that I like. I personally have considered doing the early Corvette Stingray cowl stripe with an offset pin stripe

The only way to truly know the differential gearing is to remove the rear cover and look for a stamp on the ring gear. The stamp contains two numbers offset by a colon like 37:11; divide the larger number by the smaller to get the gear ratio. In this instance, 37/11 = 3.36. I have a 39/11 or 3.54 differential in my car. I am at work and do not have access to the transmission calculator, but you will most likely want to change out the differential to a 3.90 if you use an 81 to 83 zx transmission. The 81 to 83 transmissions had a taller first gear and were mated to a 3.90 differential from the factory. It really depends on how you drive though.

The factory service manual is a great reference, but as Zedrally indicated, it presents some information in a confusing manner. The Haynes manual will describe the same process slightly differently and may make it clearer. Also, the layout of the Haynes manual is slightly more intuitive than the FSM and makes for a great quick reference. Courtesy Nissan sells electronic copies of the factor service manual for the various 240z models.

Those two books cover your engine; you still need eletrical, body, suspension, brake, etc. references. I would also pick up an FSM for the 240z as well as a Haynes/Chiltons. I have the FSM, Haynes and How to Restore your Datsun as my references. I am going to install an 83 turbo motor in my car, so I intend to pick up Maximum Boost as well as a reference regarding the fuel injection, engine and engine electrical (diagram at least) for the 83 turbo engine.

You can get near the equivalent of a 3.70 by using a 3.54 differential and a 260z 4-speed. However, it does require swapping out by the transmission and differential to attain this goal. As I stated earlier in the thread, I have this set-up and love it.

If I went with a 5-speed, I would definitely drop in a 3.90 if not a 4.11 like your are planning. I have a spare 3.54 sitting in my garage (my old one that was whining). If I run across an LSD unit I may make a 3.54 LSD as I plan on keeping my 260z 4-speed.

Marty, I have a 3.545 R-180 differential. The half shaft connections are not splined but use 4 bolts. See the following link that shows pictures of my diffy: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24461

I have a 3.54 in my car with a 260z 4-speed (3.592 first gear). The overall gearing ratios are close to running a '72 4-speed with a theoretical 3.70 differential. I love it. The car turns around 3000 rpm at 70 mph and pulls in damn near any gear at any speed.

I can't seem to find it, however, here is a link to a current ebay auction for one. It shows what the puller looks like: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120078955935&ssPageName=MERC_VIC_RCRX_RCRX_Pr2_PcY_BIN_IT&refitem=120071161881&itemcount=2&refwidgetloc=closed_view_item&usedrule1=CrossSell_LogicX&refwidgettype=cross_promot_widget It's basically a piece of hardened all-thread with a nut up top that rests on a bearing. The bearing sits atop the housing through which the all-thread passes. At the end of the all thread, which resides in the housing, is a boss that is threaded with the spindle pin pitch and diameter. Hopefully Gary is able to get something to you.

Once you see the design, it is amazing how simply, yet beautifully, it works. I borrowed the one from Gary and it took me all of 10 minutes to pull both pins.

http://web.mac.com/markrolston/iWeb/Site/New%20Paint.html

When I installed a complete Tokico package on my car, it lowered it by about an inch. I am used to very firm suspensions after my 325Ci, 350z, S4 with iNtrax, and now our FX35. I would say that the ride is quite comparable to the 350z/FX35 ride, firm but not overly stiff.

The reason why Blue (the author of the tech article) removed them was because he was replacing his bushing at the same time also. Please read the article. You can ask others here (i.e., Jon Mortensen) about having to remove the entire assembly. See this link if you do not believe me (read jmortensen's post at the bottom of the first page): http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23673 I forgot about the front sway bar. Secondly, you do not need to buy a spring compressor. Autozone has a tool loaner program. You simply put down a deposit, use the tool, return tool and get your deposit back. I have used their loaner program quite a few times.

First and most importantly, do you have a spring compressor? If not, then changing the shocks will be quite dangerous if you have never done this before. The springs will be underload and if you remove the nut holding it in place without comressing te springs, the spring/spring perch will launch. Saying that, you can replace the shocks without removing the entire strut assembly. First, remove the two bolts connecting the t/c rod to the control arm. You will also need to disconnect the steering knuckle from the outter tie rods. You will need to do this so that the control arm has its full range of motion. At this point you are quite close to being able to completely remove the strut assembly altogether. Simply remove two more bolts in the ball joint and the strut assembly is free. Then make sure that you have loosened the nut in the strut tower that locks the shock inplace. Do not take it off completely, just loosen it first. Once that is accomplished, you can start removing the three nuts in the strut tower. Make sure that the control arm is supported by something before you do this. Once removed, you can start to lower the control arm/strut assembly. The rears are quite a bit easier. There is no way of just removing the strut asembly in the rear without removing the spindle pin. You will have to change the rears in place. To do this, you simply disconnect the half shaft from the rear hub (behind the drum). That's it really. You may or may not need to disconnect the emergency brake cable (very very easy) and the rear drum brake line in order to get the clearance you need.

The brush can be made from copper or any other flexible, conductive metal solid wire. Just get a guage that is easy to bend but stiff enough to hold its shape. That should work in the interim until you track down a replacement part (if you care to do so).

Mat, you are correct about the fact that the 240mm flywheel will bolt up to the block. I was just clarifying your statement for gabe. The best clutch (sticking with Datsun/Nissan parts) would be from any 2+2 manual Z. As ezzzzzzz said, make sure you have all the pieces from the donor car. You will be driven mad if you try to swap the innards from 2 different clutches. As it is written, your statement implies that he could use the 2+2 pressure plate and clutch disk on a 225mm flywheel. If he wants a beefier clutch, he'll have to get a pressure plate, clutch disk and throwout collar to match the 240mm flywheel. He will not be able to use the 240mm pressure plate, clutch disk or throwout collar on the 225mm flywheel or vice versa.

Am I the only one that noticed the position of his jack stands? They seem awfully far back to support the front of the car with the engine. People have reported that by supporting the car that far back, the weight of the engine will distort the unibody frame. The distortion is not necessarily permanent, but when trying to align gaps it can make it rather frustrating.

You don't resurface the pressure plate, you resurface the flywheel. The pressure plate only disengages the clutch disk from the flywheel. Secondly, the 2+2 uses a 240mm flywheel; his car has a 225mm flywheel. If you are keeping the engine stock, just get a genuine Nissan replacement clutch kit. It comes with a new pressure plate, new clutch disk, alignment tool and throwout bearing. You asked this same question in the engine and tranny forum. Jmortensen provided a great respone to your question. I would follow his sage advice.

By HP type Tom means Hawk HP pads (big assumption, as he may just mean high performance) . A properly working stock brake system with a good brake pad are more than sufficient for street use. When I refurbished my entire front end, I opted for Powerslot rotors, Hawk HP pads and SS brake lines. Now, I am eternally grateful for locking seltbelts whenever I get hard on my brakes.

Steve, with the wider tire the car is more apt to follow imperfections in the roadway, such as 'ruts' in heavily truck-trafficked lanes. It's not a big deal, just an observation.

Red_dog, they do not stick out. The front is flush with the fender as are the rear. The only place it looks like they stick it is from the top of the rear fender towards the back. The rear portion of the fender curves inwards.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24558 I posted some photos there.

I opted for 225/60R14 (Yokohoma Avid ST) on my 15-spoke Western Turbines (wheels are 14x7). My 5-slot Shelby mags are shod with 195/70R14. I had some reservations about going to a 225 tire with manual steering, however, my fears were unfounded. I do not have any more difficulty during low speed maneuvers with these tires than with the 195s. I do tram a little bit more though, but it is not excessive.

That's the beauty about pictures, they each tell a different story depending on the viewer. I highly doubt that the 240z was keeping up with the Lotus Elise (all else being equal). I saw these photos over at Zcar.com. Very nice shots, especially the few around the corkscrew. Laguna Seca is one track I would love to drive. I am definitely going to have to look into SCCA.

I could swear that the adjustment procedure for a 70/71 slave cylinder was to turn the adjustment bolt until it just touched the clutch fork. You do not want to take out the clutch fork play, otherwise the release bearing will be pressing against the pressure plate fingers.