ktm

The arm makes constant contact with the bottom of the steering wheel hub. Under the horn pad you can see where the ground wire attaches to the spring loaded hub. The wire connects the steering wheel hub to the spring loaded hub. When you press the spring loaded hub down, it makes contact with the steering when hub and completes the circuit. The horn then goes honk. To test and see if your horn is working properly (assuming you have the brush and the wire), touch the wire against the metal steering wheel hub. The circuit will be complete and the horn should honk. I just replaced my (in VERY good condition) stock steering wheel with an aftermarket wheel. I am still debating whether or not I want to hold on to the mounting hardware. I know I could get a good price for the entire setup as it is in very good condition, but the packrat in me wants to hold onto it.

The Tokico's are not fully progressive; the fronts are progressive and the rears are linear. I do not know where you read about 'unpredictable' handling related to progressive springs. The handling is predictable, it is just different than a linear spring. The springs require more body roll in order to develop their resistance compared to a linear spring. Once you get used to that point at which they stiffen up, you can drive them with as much confidence as a linear spring equipped car. I love the Tokico spring and HP blue setup. I owned a 350z, Audi S4 with an complete iNtrax setup and an FX35. I would say that my 240z with the Tokico setup is very similar in ride quality to my old 350z. Rather firm, but not 'buckboard stiff'.

Mckrack, how much did it run you?

Here is a great engine design utility. Just input the information and you can get an idea of what your static CR will be: http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ Arne, I do not know where you are getting 10.5:1 CR with an E88 head (260z E88). The link I provided above, assuming flat top L28 pistons, L28 rods, L28 block, L28 cam, 1.25mm gasket and an L28 crank puts the CR at 9.7:1. Hell, even if you put an E31 head on there your CR is only 10.1:1.

Rob, I too bought a solid mount (it was actually cheaper than the OE rubber replacement), but after reading far too many threads about frame rail damage, I opted to install the OE mount.

You need to just jump right on in with both feet and get to work. I am not doing nearly the work you are doing. I call my work a driving restoration. I am driving it and restoring/refurbishing/modifying it as I go along. I was rather daunted at the prospect of tearing into my front suspension, rear suspension, transmission, engine, etc. at first too. However, once you start turning that first bolt you begin to realize that these cars are rather simple. As long as you document and label every part you remove, your reassembly will be, as Bruce said, stress free. My car is back on the ground and driving after being on stands since July. I just bought a complete L28ET engine, ECU, harness, etc. and plan on doing the swap later this year (July/August time frame) after I finish up my reading and part collecting. My confidence has grown significantly after all of the work I accomplished. As the Nike ad says, just do it.

MAX, Arne would be the best source of information, but if I remember correctly 195/70R14s are nearly equivalent to 175SR14 .

How about just using POR-15 flat/satin finish?

The problem with finding replacement tires for 14-in. wheels is that there is not a great selection. Your 205/60s will be too small compared to the 'stock' 195/70s. Check your rolling diameter: Stock 195/70s 14 in. + 195*0.70*2/25.4 = 24.75 in. 205/60s 14 in. + 205*0.60*2/25.4 = 23.69 in. Your speedo will be off by a fair amount in addition to other issues. If you stick with 205s, you should get the 70 profile: 205/70 14 in. + 205*0.70*2/25.4 = 25.30 A good replacement for 195/70s is 225/60s, which is one of the reasons why I selected the 225/60s we talked about: 14 in. + 225*0.60*2/25.4 = 24.63

In the front, I put my stands under the front cross-member right behind/inside the control arm. In the rear, the stands are placed under the crossmember that the front differential mount attaches to. They are placed all the way out, right in front of the rear tires.

Escanlon, I have found a source for the center caps. They want $25 each for used and $35 each for new caps. They have both styles of caps, smooth and ribbed/scalloped. I am running Yokohoma Avid S/T in 225/60R14. You can get them from Tirerack.com for $57 each (not including tax or shipping). Discout Tire/America's Tire Company will order, mount and balance them for around $350 out the door (includes shipping, tax, etc.). One more thing, I refinished the center caps on the mags myself. The original chrome coating was long gone, so I sanded them down to bare plastic, applied an adhesion promoter, and used a chrome paint then cleared. Zak, I actually painted it with Krylon Fusion satin black paint. Fusion paint is intended for use on all material types, to include HDPE plastics. It does a fantastic job. It creates a hard coat much like POR-15, yet does not cover up the grain of the material. I also used the paint when I made my own luggage riser trim piece (that fits across the top).

If fuel is pouring out of the vent hose, then either the float is stuck, the float lost adjustment and is not closing the needle valve, or the needle valve is stuck open (assuming, as Arne suggested, that you are using the stock fuel pump). Pull the needle valve and see if you can easily push it close. Blow into it while you are closing the valve as well and see if it is operating correctly. Measure the gap between the edge of the float and the float bowl cover. It should measure 14 to 15mm (or 0.5512 to 0.5906 in. - target 9/16-in. and you'll be in the range).

Here are some links for future reference: http://www.jetlink.net/~okayfine/sutech.html http://teglerizer.com/sucarbs/ http://teglerizer.com/sucarbs/techtip6.htm http://www.ztherapy.com/

Matt, where abouts is this course taught? I live around Irvine and have been looking for such as course (as well as one for welding). By the way, I owned a 2003 Le Mans Sunset 350z and absolutely love the color. I am still debating what color I will paint my car. I was going to go with the same color as yours, but I am heavily leaning towards the new Mustang Orange with a satin black accent on the hood/ hood cowl.

From old 14x5.5 5-slot mags with 195/70 to 14x7 western 15-spoke turbines with 225/60s: And my restored center console:

Montezuma, you need to get over it my friend. You spent the money and there is nothing you can really do about it now. Enjoy the car now and chalk up your experience to a lesson in life. I bought a car from a kid in San Diego for $4000. The car's interior was in good shape and mechanically it was very strong. Enthusiasm clouded my purchase as there were many items that needed replacing and the Ziebart undercoating covered some rust. I have sunk over $3000 into the car already and I just picked up an L28ET that I am going to drop in next fall. Still, now that the car is back down on the ground and I am able to drive it, I love it despite my earlier reservations.

I came up with a slightly different solution to this problem. I used a plastic friendly epoxy putty and reinforced the two bosses that are used to attach the choke bracket to the console. My old bosses were broken about half-way down, so I made sure to cover the tops of the bosses and push putty into the hole. I waited until the epoxy was dry and then drilled and tapped two new holes. I then cut the heads off of two machine screws and used them as studs. I super glued the studs into the new holes.

Lubricant came with my bushings (bought them in pieces and not a kit). I used another grease type and thoroughly greased every bushing-to-metal contact. The last thing I wanted was to hear squeaking after all the work I did. So far not a single squeak to be heard.

Third on the PCV valve.

Actually, that is a rather nice looking Z. It could stand to lose the 240z stripping and the louvers, but the rest of the car looks good.

Small bushing to the front, which would offset the control arm to the front. Remember, do not torque the control arm bolt to spec with the front control arms unloaded. You need to torque the bolt to spec when the car is one the ground (and ideally loaded with 2 people). Finally, remember that the bolt head faces the front, the nut on the back of the crossmember.

Update, the gap is actually normal. As you tighten the two nuts that attach the bracket on the underside of the control arm, the bushing squeezes out and becomes flush with the sleeve. Blue over at zcar.com has a great picture illustrating this gap.

The front and rear sway bars are from Suspension Technique. The kit comes complete with everything you will need to install the bars, to include the rear mounting bracket shown in the pictures.

A big thank you to everyone on this site who has helped me during my time of need. I would like to personally thank Arne, Beandip, Carl Beck and jmortensen for all of their help (a big thank you to Beandip, aka Gary, for use of the spindle pin puller). The car has been on blocks since July 2006. I was refurbishing the entire suspension assembly for the front and back: new rotors, reman calipers, shocks, spings, ball joints, tie rods, bushings, straighten a warped oil pan, painting all components, new sway bars, new-to-me transmission, new-to-me differential, etc. I have limited time each night and I am a perfectionist at heart, so I only wanted to do this once. I took her out for a quick spin yesterday after hooking up the driveshaft and she drives like a dream. She goes under the torch next Tuesday to install some front frame rail plates to strengthen the rail around the sway bar mounts (I drilled through the rail and ran a bolt from top to bottom). Here are the pictures: Differential Before: Differential After:

Oh I know, but for those who do have a set they pop out quite easily. On other note, I dropped the tranny, replaced the T/O collar, and reinstalled the tranny in 1 hour.