ktm

Fiberglas will work. Two of my large side panels were repaired this way by a previous owner sometime ago. You can not tell from the front that they are cracked unless you get up close and know where to look. I did not know they were patched until I took all of the panels off while cleaning the car after purchasing it. They held up fine to the slight tugging that ensued trying to get them free.

Car looks great. Good to see you had the patience to slow down and do it right the first time. Is that the new MSA front air dam?

Hmmm, my FSM from Courtesy Nissan did not have that page (or I did not see it). Thanks. Odd location for the front jack stands. I place mine on the crossmember, close to the control arm bolt.

I have read my Haynes manual, FSM and "How to Restore....", searched here and on Zcar.com about jack points. I just want to make absolutely sure about the rear location as most photos were ambiguous. The rear jack stand point is on the frame rail that the front/inner differential crossmember is connected. The stands should be pushed out to where the rail is intersected by another rail that curves up to the back. Correct? I am very paranoid about bending a structural element.

Yeah baby, mystery car! Arne and Mike, thank you for all the help. My curiousity got the better of me. I think I will leave well enough alone for now. See you on the road.

Crane XR700. The PO converted over to an electronic ignition. The only items below my coil are the ballistor resistor and the ignition box.

Arne, I double checked near the ignition coil - no unused wires. However, there were two unused black wires with female plate connectors that were taped up to the coolant temperature sensor. These wires have the wrong connectors and are not long enough to reach the other unused black wires with the female bullet connectors.

It was in my User CP under reputation. Comment was "have no knowledge of the material."

I'll have to check tomorrow. I do not recall any unused wires. The PO switched the car over to an electronic ignition using Crane's XR700 system.

I grew up driving my father's 1972 911 Targa. You want to talk about a car that has a tendency to suddenly 'snap' oversteer.

Mike, which is why I am here. I have scoured my FSM and Haynes wiring diagrams to no avail. They split out from the harness approxmately 24-inches back from the connectors. All electrical components work save for the clock (go figure) and the dome light. Arne, yes, I do have the rectangular clutch stop on the firewall. Edit: In the end if they are not required for anything that is fine. I just want to make sure that I am not missing a component in the car. I am trying to refurbish (not so much restore) the car and would like to replace missing components, like my inspection lamps.

I would love to know how I gained the reputation of having no knowledge of the material (POR-15). I have only used it to cover the interior of my wheel wells, cross-member, and frame rails. Using POR-15 requires careful surface preparation. You must start with a clean surface first and foremost. How you get there does not matter. As long as the surface is clean and free of grease, etc. that is all that matters. They recommend using their water-based Marine Clean and say that kerosene or solvent-based degreasers should not be used as they may leave an invisible film. However, they do NOT come out and say you MUST use Marine Clean. Do any of you disagree? Once the surface is clean, you must etch the metal. They do not say you MUST etch, but we all know that you should etch the metal, especially a new metal. You can use either Metal Ready or phosphoric acid. Do any of you disagree? After etching, you need to clean the surface again to remove the excess Metal Ready or phosphoric acid. You do this by wiping it down with a wet cloth. Once the excess is removed and the surface is dry you can then paint using POR. Now, where am I wrong in any of that? It is recommended that you use Marine Clean to remove any grease on the surface, but the intent is to make sure you have a clean surface. It does not matter HOW. Edit: I am trying to give back to this wonderful community by sharing the knowledge that I have gained. I am not the type to post something if I have any doubt, as I know that it will show up in a search.

I recently purchased a set of the ST sway bars. I finished installing the fronts a week ago and I am now working on the rear. As John Coffey pointed out, Summit Racing is the cheapest place to buy the ST bars. However, when I ordered mine at the beginning of August, they were on a 4 week back order that turned into 6 weeks. Edit: Wow, looks like they have more in stock as they are showing Ship Today. They say steel gray, but be forewarned that they do come in flourescent green as well.

I just checked. The two wires on top of the fender come from the same harness as those for the washer pump. The wires have bullet style connectors and are black. No other markings. I stripped 2 inches of the outter coating to expose as much of the wire cover as I could and they both still showed black.

It is the pair of wires in the right hand corner of the picture. The pair of wires next to them are for the washer pump.

I have heard that Pierre Z in Long Beach is another good place.

I'll post a picture tonight. Arne, I have no idea if my car was an automatic as I bought it with a 4-speed. MikeW, given the state of the wires and the connectors on the end, I am led to believe that the wires are stock. The previous owners that messed around with the harnesses did not care about neatly wrapping the wires in electrical tape or using connectors. I spent a little time last night remove poor, exposed splices and re-splicing with butt-connectors and re-taping.

Carl, I am not ignoring your request. I am tracking down the information.

I actually have another pair of wires running over there in addition to the brake warning light wire (whichs is still connected) and the washer pump wires.

I have two pairs of leads by the brake booster. One set is for the washer fluid pump, but I have no idea what the second set is for. I personally removed the tank for now and disconnected the first pair of wires, but I am trying to find out what the second set is for. Any idea?

Hmmm, I may have to try Marine Clean then. I have used a lot of POR with great success. Since it was called out as a degreaser, I figured it was just a re-branded product. Don't let it TOUCH your skin. You will have a nanosecond to remove it before it drys it seems. I got a bit on my forearms and did not know it. When I finally saw the stains, it was too late. As Gary stated, you want to work in a well ventilated area. Wear a long sleeve shirt, long pants and gloves. I used a high density foam roller to apply the POR over most of the area. It goes MUCH faster than a brush

Great resource for a step by step guide for a suspension and bushing swap: Blue's Web Site Blue covers everything you need to know and will likely encounter. I just did the suspension and bushing swap on my 1972 240z. Take your time, read things two and three times, when in doubt, stop and do some research on the Internet, and have fun. You might want to consider repainting everything underneath while you have it apart. After 29 years, most of the paint is gone and the metal is rusted. Good luck.

Metal Ready is just phosphoric acid. Marine Clean is just a degreaser. You do not necessarily have to buy them as long as you get their equivalents and do the same steps. Remember, if you are going to do something, do it right (especially the first time). A few extra hours stripping the old paint will be worthwhile.

I was going to chime in with NKG wires as well, but looks like quite a few folks beat me to it.

Carl, I just put in Tokico HP shocks and springs and my front end dropped. So much so that I can not fit my jack under the cross-member anymore.