ktm

Theoretically. I replaced my 5020-Fs with the 280z springs per your write-up. The 5020-Fs gave an incredibly harsh ride, and I am not the only one with that experience. The car would crash over abrupt bumps; it felt and sounded as though the car was hit with a massive hammer. I cringed everytime I heard/felt it. When I switched over to the 280z springs, it was a night and day difference.

My Rota Grid Offroads had the same issue. It is the small beveled edge at the base of the hub that is the problem. beermanpete describes what was done to my front wheels (I bought them from a member at Hybridz that already modified them): chamfer the inside of the bore to accomodate the beveled base. You'll have to do this to all 4 wheels if you want to rotate them in the future. Another option is to run a very small spacer (3 mm or so).

Ron Tyler at Hybridz installed one about 6 months ago or so (IIRC) in his (former) M3 swapped 260z. He loved the functionality of the GPS speedo. It does save a lot of headaches, but then again creates a few (such as odometer and tripmeter readings.....).

The Recaros look great. I am late to the party, but I'll add my seats for posteri(ori)ty. 2008 Mazda Miata seats

Ace/TruValue Hardware has some fuzzy door weatherstripping that is the same width and it is adhesive backed. I used it on my car 5 years ago and it has not come off yet.

I did this a few years ago myself with Peel and Seal. I even used inside the cabin on the firewall and never noticed a smell. It is also on my floorboards and I may line the rear deck and spare tire well some time in the future.

That is Idaho pricing. Here in So Cal wheels run $65+ each to powder coat. I had all of my turbo engine parts powder coated (pan, manifold, valve cover, alternator fan, pulley, bracket, etc.) and it cost me around $300 to $350 (this was 4 years ago). I highly recommend powder coating if your budget allows. It is much more durable than paint. I would imagine that you'd be looking at around $500 to powdercoat the parts you are describing.

To each their own I say. I am not a huge fan of the over fenders which is why I'll never run ZG flairs or the like, however, I will not disparage those that do.

Jon, there is also the 240sx rear caliper option as well. They work well with the vented Toyo setup. Unfortunately, the only supplier of the 240sx bracket (that I am aware of) has not been heard from in a while.... As Jon stated, Hybridz.org has all of the information you need for your braking solutions.

I do the same on all counts.

....and that speaks volumes. Caveat emptor. More people should heed this lesson.

Blue, I have a set of true Nissan engine mounts that I had on my turbo setup for 4 years and 5,000 miles (yes, 5,000 miles). Are you interested?

I was on the other side and thought I heard audible detonation. A few seconds later a huge plume of white smoke was billowing out the back. A blown coolant hose will do that too!

Did you see the turbo'd 240z pop his engine on the dyno? Nice little smoke show..... My car would not start when I was ready to leave. Fortunately it was (as I suspected) a faulty relay, but still, rather embarassing as the engine just cranked and I started to draw a crowd.

No, they are not. A little enlightenment is called for.

There are so many variations of that mesh style it's mind boggling: MSW, SSR, Volk, Enkei, Autobahn, Riken, etc.

The source for our connectors: Vintage Connections.

Dave, thanks for the compliment. The +10 offset is the wrong way for us, so to speak, but the 16x8 really helps and the +10 offset is needed for fender clearance. spdcrazy, the steering is not that bad, or at least I don't think so. The tire and wheel combo are larger than stock and I had to trim the inside edge of the lower valence for clearance.

Rota Grid Offroad, 16x8 +10 with BFG G-force 245/50s, Tokico HP Blues and springs.

The Rota Grid V or Classic is a take off of the Volk TE37V. The Volk does not have a polished lip but rather carries the color all the way to the edge. http://www2.group5motorsport.com/blog/?p=286 I like the look of the Shakotan's and contemplated swapping out my Grid Offroads, but I love the look of the Offroads on my car.

The stock ECCS will not work well with your 3.0L setup. The fuel map is setup for stock injectors on a stock engine. Any changes in airflow cannot be accounted for in the map which is why adding an aggressive cam to an other stock engine results in poor performance with a stock ECCS. Your best bet is to invest in Megasquirt (if you are cost conscious) or a higher end stand alone (Wolf V500, Haltech) engine management system.

QftT! All I see are shiny bits. He is not selling a complete turbo engine. You will need to supply the oil feed line, oil distribution block, turbo, etc.

Tony's point was to show that looping the heater hose does result in a significant temperature differential between the back of the head and the thermostat. That's it. Too many people read words that are never spoken. For a carburreted, normally-aspirated car that is fine. For those of us running EFI and forced induction it is another matter.

The bolt is 16 mm x 1.5 (pitch). You also need to make sure the length is correct and that is 32 mm if I remember correctly.

Is the seal still in place in the picture? If so, it looks too far in. I install the seal to be flush with the block.