ktm

You can make a 280z glove box (made out of plastic) fit with minimal modifications to the glove box itself. Much easier than making one out of aluminum and durable than the POS cardboard.

You're right, it's better than the stock.

My New Years resolutions: 1. Drive the car more. I swear all of its temper tantrums stem from the fact that it just wants attention. 2. Install my Slover ported P90 head with Isky cam. You can never have too much power. 3. Drive the car more.

Very nice! That is a great looking "barn find". I took my car out for a spin to the office today (40 miles one way) and did not get one look, thumps up, etc. the entire round-trip.

Shouldn't need it? Correct. Good preventative measure? Sure thing. I smear a bead of sealer around the outside of the seal before installing. It helps the seal slide into place and is a small additive measure. I've done this on three seals and not one has leaked.

My mistake. I saw this car in the parking lot at JCCS. It was parked right next to where the line snaked back from the entrance booth. The car I was thinking about when I responded is Yuta's which is now painted with a Zero theme. I have no idea what I was thinking.

That is the same car, just a different paint job. The car does not have a clean engine bay. It is rolling art, that is all. His welds are atrocious and he clearly went after form before function (he admits it). I saw this car at JCCS in both forms (2009 and 2010). I think the car looks great. Given that he acknowledges that he built the car for the look and makes no pretense about it is commendable.

It is rather clean. If I may make a suggestion. Ditch the red and yellow vacuum lines. Stick with blue or use black. I personally would use black. It helps the valve cover, AFM, air intake and spark plug wires "pop". You could always play with shades of black as well. Regardless, very nicely done. I enjoy clean engine bays.

When I swapped out my companion flange I did not have any issues with the thrust washers. I never removed them when swapping the flange.

Yes, the flashers should work with the ignition off. The parking lights (and tail lights) should turn on with the ignition off as well. On a side note, Winchester, CA? You really live in Winchester? I worked there for 8 weeks. I lived in a farm house owned by a rich family in the area. Talk about a 1-non-stop light town.

Go to Autozone. Ask to rent the pilot bushing puller. I am not kidding. They ask for a deposit, you spend 2 minutes using the puller, return the puller and get your deposit back.

Check out cygnusx1 over at Hybridz. He did a similar thing but used them as halo lights. At least I think it was cygnusx1. Edit: Yep. It was him: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78978-audi-eat-your-heart-out-led-lights/page__p__750367__hl__led__fromsearch__1#entry750367

Nate, Thank you. One of the benefits of living in Southern California is that you do not not need (or use) your heater that much. I have a turbo charged engine and need more than just the standard suite of gauges. I understand that gauges are personal preference. You do realize that you can customize the gauges? Font type, type and color of lighting, face color, font color, bezel color, etc. are all customizable. Mint chocolate chip is my personal favorite as well.

Definitely check the flasher. You have not indicated that you've investigated the flasher in your later posts. Flashers are easy and very inexpensive to replace. It is definitely a possible cause. Just because Dave disagrees does not mean he is correct. He could very well be, but check the flasher before pursuing other more timing consuming and costly (as in more expensive than a flasher) remedies. Check the fuse as well. A corroded connection at the fuse, bad fuse (loose internally), etc. would drop the voltage significantly and not power the flasher.

Check out Speedhut gauges. Much better and nicer looking than Autometers. They are all electric and the fuel gauge is programmable. Here is my install: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/86127-my-speedhut-gauge-install/page__p__816745__hl__speedhut__fromsearch__1#entry816745

The head lights do not go through the ignition switch and as he stated they would not turn on at times. By the description, the point of commonality is the battery feed wire to the fuse box and ignition switch. You may have an issue with one of the factory spliced connections. Measure the voltage at the head light fuse and also measure the voltage on the white/red wire at the ignition switch plug.

Our wives must have been separated at birth. I just dropped my head off at Slover porting, my cam at Isky and sent my rockers to Delta Camshaft. The latter two will cost less than $150 total, but porting......let's just say I am trying to find change in every seat cushion around the house and cars so I can avoid having to "ask" her.

Not really. The fronts are press fit rubber bushings with metal sleeves. There is a good chance you'll need to have the sleeves pressed out. The same for the outter bushings in the rear.

Don't get overworked yet. Just do a compression test and see what it says. Post the numbers once your done and go from there.

Yes, which is why I said valve float. Google valve float for a better understanding. However, I am not saying you experienced valve float only that valve float can cause piston to valve contact. If the rockers were loose then that could explain the louder tap. When I had a hydraulic lifter collapse on my L28ET it was a very loud tap. Do a compression test or preferably a leak down test. We are only guessing at this point. A finger over the hole is not really a valid test.

Which two were loose? You really need to run a compression test or preferably a leak down test.

I said valve float could be a possibility. Pedal stuck, revved pretty high for 20 to 30 seconds, etc. A popped rocker would not cause a loud tap; a cocked rocker could but if the rocker is lying in top of the head if would not tap. If a rocker popped off the cylinder would build pressure as well as the valve would always be closed. Pull the valve cover and take a look. It could be a loose rocker, cocked rocker, etc. I would also run a compression test to verify your assumption. If #5 is low, run a leak down (or just run a leak down test first).

Valve float is a possibility if you pegged it past redline for that long.

doradox, you are wrong and Ztrain is always right. The sky is purple and the sun revolves around the Earth. As soon as you accept his reality life will be better.

Below are older pictures of my car with the Kaminari airdam. It is a very well built, high quality piece. However, it is a bit "heavy" in my opinion and draws the eye to the front of the car more than it should. I no longer use it thanks to a little old lady in a Lexus. She helped me make the decision to remove it. :stupid: