ktm

I would definitely agree. Not only that, but if you have the money I would replace the old glass tube fuse box with MSA's modern ATC blade fuse box. It is plug and play. Saying that, the headlight upgrade would be my first purchase followed by the parking light upgrade.

Powdercoat comes in significantly more colors than POR-15. POR-15 has a very specific preparation process that if not adhered to strictly will result in, as Z-train stated, the POR peeling up like a sunburn. POR-15 is a great product and I used it in my wheel wells and tranny tunnel. I coated it with their chassis coat; you thought POR-15 was tough, try their chassis coat. However, my suspension parts are painted. I did not have the time or money to powdercoat them at the time so I painted them. All of my engine components are powdercoated however, and if I were to redo my suspension they would be powdercoated.

You can buy thermal exhaust "paint-in-the-can" from Autozone called VHT that is rated up to 2000 degrees if you follow the directions to a "T". You must cure it in an oven or on your car per their directions. This is an alternative to ceramic coating. I have a few cans of the paint in my garage that I used on my exhaust system past my downpipe which is around 3.5 feet from my exhaust manifold/turbo. My exhaust manifold, downpipe and turbo turbine housing are all ceramic coated as it is more durable as Ztrain has stated. Turbos tend to run hotter than N/A cars which is why I opted for ceramic coating. You might give VHT a try.

K.I.S.S. Your best bet is to test "Various electrical measurements on the EFI, per the FSM. Otherwise, everyone is guessing in the dark and making you a car hypochondriac. You know you are running rich, therefore that can help you reduce the scope of your diagnosis. Unfortunately I do not know too much about the stock ECM as I am running a modern aftermarket EMS. However, the FSM does have a detailed procedure for testing each circuit/function and the respective specs.

And you did not read the link. If you did, then your foot must be tasting rather good right about now. This is not the first time you've come across as a smart arse know it all. It is supporting the argument that a higher viscosity oil would be needed for a higher mileage engine.

Stephen I apologize for lumping you in with "all", but I was seeing all this talk about temperatures and viscosity and no one talking about what really matters.

All of you are basing oil selection on the wrong criteria. FOllowing is a great write-up about what oil to select and it is ALL based on maintaining the appropriate oil pressure and oil temperatures. You run the oil weight you need to maintain a given (recommended) oil pressure. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/82361-motor-oil-school/

Then that is the wrong rotor. The 240sx rear caliper swap requires the bracket from Modern Motorsports or Silvermine Motorsports and the 300zx (Z31) rotor.

Rotors......

Water Wetter helps a 50/50 mix cool better than just straight 50/50. It allows for better heat transfer and thus better cooling. It is not a band aid but another resource to use in extreme climates. Water cools significantly better than 50/50, but has a much lower boiling point. Couple that with the spot boiling issues are heads are subject to by cylinders 5 and 6, you are risking overheating if the engine gets over 185 to 190 (cylinders 5 and 6 run about 20 degrees hotter). Water Wetter raises the boiling point of water just enough and also improves the heat transference of water.

About a week ago I met my wife for dinner at a nice little restaurant in town. I decided to drive the Z as it was a gorgeous evening for a cruise. I get to the restaurant without issue and proceed to enjoy my meal. When we get outside it is dark. My wife gets in her car and starts to head home. I hop in the Z, let it warm up, and head off too. I get no more than 1000 feet from the restaurant and start to smell smoke. Within another 100 feet the odor is quite strong and I can see smoke coming from my vents by other's headlights. I frantically pull into a deserted parking lot and turn off the car and lights. The car stops but the parking lights will not turn off. Smoke is billowing out of my cabin and engine bay at this time. I check for a glow around the car and pop the hood. I see smoke emanating from a point in my harness near the radiator support. I pull all of my Maxi fuses that I can. One of them is too damn hot to touch and the holder is melting. I can't access my fuse box due to my modifications (used button head bolts to secure it in place - lesson learned) so I rip the positive terminal off the battery. The negative terminal is under the inspection lid and I can not get a good grip on the terminal. By this time there is a visible flame by the radiator support. I manage to put the flame out and breath a sigh of relief. I call AAA and get a tow home. The following day I inspect the damage. The car is ok as is everything else save for the dash and engine bay harness. My car is heavily modified so my engine bay harness only carries the lights, starter, alternator and battery feeds. The driver's side side marker light wire is completely melted from the bullet to the combo switch. I am talking about 8+ feet of bare, exposed wire. The nearest I can tell the insulator slipped off the bullet connect and it made contact with the front valence, shorting out. I am now rewiring my car with a Painless 12-circuit fuse box and my own harness. A fire extinguisher will also be ordered shortly (been putting it off for a little while). Check those insulators folks.

Rotate the engine to TDC so that the crank journals at #1 clear the lip of the pan. Do not apply any pressure twisting the pan to get it to clear. As Z train stated, loosen the engine mounts (the single bolt on the isolator that goes through the engine crossmember) and jack up the engine about one inch. I removed the pan from my old L24 with the engine still in the car as well.

That is one way to shorten the life of an alternator. Try to keep the battery charged using a battery tender, otherwise you'll be out a battery and an alternator at some time.

I mounted mine in the exact same location. I opted for 6-in. Alpines with the adjustable tweeter. I have 3-way Pioneers mounted in the vertical riser behind the seats as well and MB Quartz tweeters in the two side vents.

Best to arrive at 6:30 and not 7:00. The parking lot gets awfully full very fast around 7 am.

You need to be somewhat precise when cutting the lower bracket for this very reason. You should be able to ship the alternator forward (if you cut too much) by using thin washers.

Autozone carries a 160 degree thermostat for the L6. Is it a "gen-u-INE" Nissan? Nope, but it does the job quite well. I am running one in my car without issue. You can clearly see when the thermostat opens and the car runs 160 to 170 degrees when cruising.

Then dem folks be wrong. There are very few electric fans that outflow the stock Z fan. Timz over at Hybridz has a 600+ hp monster using the stock fan setup and a shroud. Why? Because it cools better than any electric fan that will fit in our cars. The Taurus or Lincoln Mark VIII fans are too large to fit into our Zs with the L6 in there. Don't fool yourself. You are causing the cooling system to "fail" because you added an electric fan, an item with a very high current draw, to your otherwise stock setup. Return to the stock mechanical fan and your power draw issues will be resolved. Now upgrading your alternator because you've wanted to is a perfectly acceptable reason. I am running a CS144 setup on my car (I have a write-up on Hybridz about this conversion) because I needed more amperage at idle with my setup.

I like 'em a lot. I am looking at picking up a set of SSR Mark II's (same 4-spoke design) if I can find a set in 15x7 that are not astronomically priced.

Those look like SSR's but they are not the only set in the US.

Cylinders 5 and 6 run the hottest in our cars. Read THIS thread at Hybridz regarding this issue.

Sorry to hear that you broke a T/C rod, but when I read the title I instantly knew I was going to read about poly bushings. The evidence is not "iffy", you just ignored the evidence to, as you said, "see what happened". You even knew the remedy. I do not mean to come across as an arse, but really, at least be honest with yourself and others. The evidence was enough for me to not install the poly bushing in the rear of the T/C rod.

It's realtively easy, you just pull them out and then push them back in. Pushing them in can be frustrating though. You do not need to remove the dash.

Really? Adding a rear sway bar to the 240z makes them a little tail happy. Wider tires in the rear would help to offset this oversteer tendency. Think Porsche 911s as factory cars with staggered setups. When Datsun's were raced in the 1970s they were running staggered setups depending on the race series. All one needs to do is look at a Bob Sharp car. I would say that it is because most old school wheels come primarily in 14 and 15s, whereas 16s are definitely rarer. Why run a staggered setup at all unless you've done some modifications to the car that warrant wider rear tires? You lose the ability to rotate the tires front to back when you do this. Additionally, it makes it harder to sell the wheels later. You can always run 7-in. wide wheels and simply put on different width tires.

It's clear people aren't reading the thread. He has an FI car subject to smog. No turbos, no carbs.