ktm

I've got an ABS coupler on my car that was installed by the PO. No issues whatsoever.

Have things changed in the past year? I found 225/60R14 in Yokohoma AVID S/T just a year ago.

The only way for that to happen is for the caliper itself to be loose. The 240z/280z caliper is a one-piece unit that is attached via two bolts. Maybe one of the bolts snapped/backed out and the caliper rotated forward/backward?

You can get the entire rear setup, minus calipers, from Modern Motorsports. This will use the 240sx rear calipers. Silvermine Motors also has a setup for the rear brakes that use the 240sx calipers. The front brakes you can also get from Modern Motorsports and Silvermine. MM only has the 300zx vented setup whereas Silvermine also has the old 4x4 caliper (nonvented) setup as well as the vented setup. MSA is good for some parts, but you can save a bundle by piecing the kit together yourself. I save around $450 by piecing the 300zx vented and 240sx kits together, placing WTB adds, watching Ebay, etc.

It is not the pressure of the atmosphere but rather the differential pressure across the diaphragm. Now stay with me here. The engine applies a vacuum that is not a true full vacuum, therefore the differential pressure across the diaphragm is not going to be 14.7 psi but rather 11 or so psi. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-types/power-brake2.htm If the engine did not create a vacuum, or creates a low vacuum at idle like on a radically cam'd engine, then the differential pressure is going to be minute.

The master vac does not have 14.7 psi of vacuum. At best it is 22 to 24 in. Hg. or around 11 to 12 psi of vacuum. Just saying. Your master vac only has teh vacuum it pulls from the balance tube or intake manifold. The most vacuum it sees is from high RPM deceleration with your foot completely off the gas. At that point you'll pull around 22 to 24 in. Hg. This is why large cam'd vehicles have brake booster issues.

I'll be there. It's a shame that both the roadster and MSA shaows fall on the same weekend.

Seafoam the engine would be a start and may help.

That fuse box is a huge no-no if I am correct about those "boxes". It looks like he used automatically-reseting circuit breakers.

You best bet is a JY or hit the classifieds at Hybridz (they get a lot more traffic) and post a "want to buy" add. Ebay is another good place (I've seen these pieces all the time).

Carl, I must disagree with your $6k figure to achieve 200 to 250 whp using a stock L28ET. You do not need a modern engine management system to achieve that goal. The stock ECU, turbo and fuel system are good to 10 psi of boost. At 10 psi of boost, you are already close to 200 whp. A little tweaking of the system and you can run a bit more boost on the stock EFI, add an intercooler, and you are over 200 whp. You can do this all for less than $700. If you want anything more, though, and I agree that you will need to spend quite a bit more money: fuel injectors, aftermarket engine management system, larger turbo, exhaust system, etc. To the original poster, if you go the turbo route be forewarned, boost is addictive. Next thing you know you'll be sinking serious coin into your setup. I thought I was going to have a mild turbo build, but when I was done I was putting down 320 wheel ft-lbs of torque and 300 whp. A year later and I am now at 410 wheel ft-lbs and 400 whp (on a stock head, block and intake I might add). I am now in the process of going after more power.

I personally think the embellishment panels look better accented with chrome. Mine was not accented, but I painted it with modellers silver paint as well as the little Z in the center. It's a nice little touch on the console.

Everybody is focusing on the engine yet forgetting a very simple and inexpensive upgrade that will net improvements as well: gearing! Swap out the rear gears for a set of 3.90 or 4.11. You'll run out of top end but the first 1/4-mile will be fun.

That little 0-60 mph calculator is fun. If only I could really achieve the numbers it says for my specs.

Yes, the bell housing is removable. The shifter feel is fantastic with the short shifter installed; throws are short and precise. The trans bolt up nicely if the bell housing is machined correctly and the adapter is goo quality. The trans is HEAVY, about 120 lbs and it is a TIGHT fit. You need a custom rear trans mount. I would only do this swap if you are putting down serious power. I am pushing 410 wheel ft-lbs. I CHEWED up a 78 5-speed; I mean chunks were in the fluid.

Yes, I have.

My car did not have them either. I am with Zedyone in that I took the stripes off of my car. As I bought it: As it stands today: Yes, same paint. The paint looks different in just about every picture. Though mall002's cars are incredibly clean. The paint on the green car is gorgeous along with the butterscotch interior.

Backfire is not the same as a misfire. Leaning out can cause a backfire through the intake. Misfire, or miss, is the spark being "blown" out (the plug can not create the spark). This is a result of increased air/fuel density in the cylinder. L28ET cars experience this issue quite frequently above 15 psi and the plugs must be gapped correctly to help mitigate the problem. Too much fuel can cause misfiring as well. On your carb'ed engine it is most likely due to "retarded" timing at the higher RPMs. As others have noted, check that your distributor is advancing timing. Edit: I did not read all through way through and see that you solved the problem with a new distributor.

Odd, my 1972 240z does not have this issue. The hatch is flush all the way around. Have you tried loosening the little bracket that the strut connects to which is attached to the body? It is a single bolt and I believe there may be a little bit of adjustment to be had there.

I've used the Dupli-color on my black vinyl and it came out fantastic. This was over a year ago and it looks as good now as it did when I first sprayed it. It is a nice glossy black. Your statement that it is garbage is incorrect. As madkaw stated, they have a product that works on plastic and vinyl. If you have no experience with these products, then refrain from making any statements.

You probably did not re-align the mark after messing with the engine. The white mark is "behind" the chain wedge. There is no way for the chain to slide behind the tool with the tool in-place. You'll know if the chain slipped and the tensioner popped out because you will not be able to install the chain on the cam sprocket.

John, I am speaking from my own experience. I had originally drilled through the rails and uses long bolts with a small plate. I could not even torque to spec without the rail deforming slightly. I did not "torque to 100-ft/lbs", I followed the FSM for the torque specs. I purchased Bad Dog's frame rail stiffener for sway bars and asked him to modify it from a bracket to a C-channel. It is my understanding that Roostmonkey manufacturers these for John at Bad Dog. I am mistaken regarding the 1/8-in. thick plate. It was most likely approximately 1/16 or maybe even 0.083" plate. I was simply providing an example of how I reinforced the frame rail area. I mistakenly overstated the steel plate thickness.

The frame rails are "paper" thin. Simply drilling through them and installing a plate on the top will crush the rails. I had a 1/8-in. C-channel welded over my rail as well as installed 3/4-in. steel tubing inside the rail (where the bolts run through) for crush resistance.

Actually, that is how the ST setup looks installed. The MSA kit does not include the new transverse link mounts with provisions for the sway bar.

My CF Bre spook spoiler has the same minor weave separation. However, for the price you are paying for the items, I was not expecting a perfect prodcut. Their CF tail light panels, however, are impecable.