ktm

I agree with Dave. A powerful AMP does not mean that the music has to be loud; the amp needs to be of sufficient power to adequately drive the speakers. My car is loud enough as it is between the engine, wind noise with the windows down, and my exhaust. Dave, do you happen to have the depth measurements of the spare tire well? I am going to relocate my battery to the spare tire well and use a Braille battery. If I have room, I would like to go with a similar sub-box setup as your first one and put the battery there as well. duffman, my vents are useless which is why I put my tweeters there. I removed my heater and blower motor. I live in southern California and do not have a need for them. I will be installing a Vintage Air system next spring so they may move however.

Duffman, I was not trying to do a "me-too" with Dave. The speaker spacers are made from two pieces of either 1/2 or 3/4 MDF (I can not remember right now). The fit right over the opening in the kickpanel where you access the door hinges. Tomohawk, are you sure you do not have room for a bass tube? I am running an 8-in. Bazooka tube in my car and it fits right where the MSA hatch box would go. Having a subwoofer is not something left to the "younger" guys. You would be surprised at how much a subwoofer improves the sound in a Z. I was trying very hard to get a decent sound in the Z without one, but in the end I finally went with the tube as a test. It really makes a difference.

Did you not see my photos? As for Dave's suggestion on blocking lows to 4-in. speakers, do a quick Google search regarding capacitor crossovers. You can size the capacitor to block out the unwanted frequencies. You want the 4-in. speakers to pick up some lows, but not the really low frequencies that the subwoofer would handle.

Pioneer three-way 6x9s in the tool compartments. I sealed the lids and installed sound deadener under the lids and in the compartments. Alpine two-way 6-in. with directional tweeter in custom enclosures I made in the kick panels. MB Quart tweeters in the side vents. I just attached them to the vent and did not cut the vent itself. Performance Technique 1000 watt 4-channel amplifier. It is located behind the passenger seat. Dual head unit with Bluetooth, Auxiliary input (as seen by the cable) and USB input. Bazooka powered subwoofer. The spare tire well is where I am going to relocate my battery with a Braille battery. The system has some serious thump. The bass is tight (not as tight as running a better sub) and the highs come in clear with the tweeters and Alpines. The two switches you see under the head unit are functional. The top switch allows me to switch between maps on my engine management system (100 octane and 91 octane tunes). The lower switch is the power window switch from a 1994 Maxima. I've wired it up to control my 280zx power mirrors.

All of this "electrical" trouble-shooting and no reference at all to whether or not you are using a multimeter. How do you know the wire to the starter solenoid is ok unless you've tested it with a multimeter? Granted, your ignition switch may be toast, but you really need a multimeter to diagnose eletrical issues.

I disagree. A vacuum gauge is useful on any car. A vacuum leak will wreak havoc with both an EFI and carbureuted car. How do you know how much vacuum you are pulling at idle? Worn rings, valve seals, valve lash, intake manifold leak, loose clamps, cracked/missing hoses, will affect vacuum. A vacuum leak caused by a cracked hose or missing clamp will cause a car to run lean (unmetered air).

I only hit the major PNP's in So. Cal: the import only yard there by you Stephen, the two in Wilmington (Ecology and PaP), and the PaP in Sun Valley. I have found through experience that the PaP and Ecology near Buena Park are too small and almost never have S30/S130s.

Primarily the 1983 280zx turbos. Pre-1983, the turbo's came with a P90 head that utilized solid lifters. Some P90as on the 1983 turbo came with solid lifters, but most of them are hydraulic. FYI, the P90as do not utilize the rocker arm spring.

Randy, all of the symptoms you were describing were indicative of air in the lines. I know I thought that you were bleeding it wrong myself. The hydraulic clutch system on our cars is a bitch to bleed correctly. Congratulations.

I have Dave's headlight harness which is why I asked. It looks exactly like the harness shown. The side marker light adpaters look identical too.

....with your headlight, sidemark, and parking light harnesses? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/LNP1

ACT heavy duty pressure plate with their modified street disk, Fidanza flywheel, 410ish wheel ft-lbs of torque with no problems.

They are probably installing it wrong. If I remember, it is center in, offset out.

Ain't gonna happen, unless you are talking about flywheel horspower. You do not need 245s for your application if it is a street car. I ran 225/60R14s in my turbo setup for a little while and had no problem with them. At the time I was producing around 320 wheel ft-lbs. The 225s were great but the sidewall profile was a bit too high for hard cornering. You do not want to run a staggered setup either, unless you like to change your tires much more frequently. You will lose the ability to do a 4 corner rotate with a staggered setup. I am now running 16x8 +10 with BFG G-force 245/50s. The tires were new when I bought the wheels from a member at Hybridz. I rub the spring perch in the rear and the front. I needed to run spacers and trim the lip of the spring perch just a tad in the front and rear to clear the springs, but I will also need flares since the edge of the tire is flush with the fender lip. I had to trim the lower valence as well to get clearance for sharp turns. In the end it is your car and you can do what you like, but 245s are overkill for your application. Remember that unsprung weight plays a significant role in your cars performance. There is a weight difference between 225s and 245s, 15s versus 16s and 17s, etc.

Jim, I would love to know your setup if you are pushing 400 hp out of a stock L28ET. Fueling is an issue with the stock EFI and it usually craps out around 300 hp. I am not trying to start a pissing match, but am curious what you did to get to 400 hp out of a stock L28ET and stock EFI. For reference, I am producing 400+ ft-lbs of torque at the wheels, but I am using 503 cc/min injectors, base fuel pressure is 53 psi, and I am using an aftermarket EMS. My AFRs are tuned for 12:1 at 22 psi on a T03/04E 50 trim turbo. I am also using methanol injection (FJO Racing 700 cc/min injector) controlled by my EMS.

Much less than $6k, try around $1.5k. The stock L28ET with a few simple modifications will produce more power than a Rebello stroker.

Why not refinish them then?

The 2.6 will give you an approximate (2.6-2.4)/2.4 x 100 = 8.3% bump in power. Assuming 120 FWHP, this equates to 120 * 0.083 = 10 hp increase. This increase is simply related to increase in displacement. Rebello's headwork will (most likely) result in a significant increase over stock, much more than the increase associated with the small bump in displacement. If this is a numbers matching car and you do not want to swap parts, then you are stuck with the 3.36 gearing in your stock differential. If you are not opposed to swapping out the differential but want to keep it in the 240z family, you could opt for the automatic differential with its 3.545 gearing. This will help with acceleration. Hybridz is not about trying to keep it stock. By modifying the crank as you are, you are not keeping the car stock, so why stick with the L24?

Two tricks that work: heat or cold. Heat the area up with a torch or heat gun and use a putty knife. I used this method when removing it from my car. Expect to go through copious amounts of your favorite libation as well as it is a timing consuming process. You can also apply dry ice to it, let it sit for a minute or two, and then hit it with a hammger. It will shard up and drop off the car.

Dave, there is an external spring on the early model 240z slaves. The old slave cylinder on my car when it was original had one. It helps to keep the fork resting against the pin. Your rant about using the "correct" slave is incorrect. I am using a 240z slave with 280zx turbo clutch components on Z32 TT 5-speed. According to you it should not work at all...... Before that I was using an early 240z slave with an external spring, 240z clutch (then switched it to a 280zx turbo clutch and pressure plate and did not switch slaves), with a 240z 4-speed. According to you it should not work at all.... Really, spouting false information is not helpful. A self-adjusting slave cylinder will account for any minor differences in slave cylinder length. The adjustable slave cylinder will allow you to adjust for any minor differences in slave cylinder length. The differences are VERY minor. I have 3 different slaves in my garage and the difference in length is almost imperceptible. Only the Z32 and Pathfinder slaves have any appreciable difference in length. The slaves are interchangeable, to include the Z32 slave and Nissan Pathfinder slave. I suggest you do some research (the Z32 slave bore is larger, though, and I do not recommend using it). The most IMPORTANT thing about the slave cylinder is the bore diameter. If you change the bore diameter you will affect the throwout length. Changing the length DOES NOT CHANGE the throwout length. The throwout distance is primarily based on the difference in bore sizes between the master and slave cylinder. The only part of your clutch system that must be matched is the throwout COLLAR (not BEARING) and PRESSURE PLATE.

Be careful when buying the master cylinder. You can order one from MSA or Courtesy Nissan. I made a post on Hybridz.org about the difference in the master cylinder piston length. Both master cylinders were purchased for a 1975 280z; however, one master cylinder had a longer piston than the other. The original master cylinder in my car had the longer piston. MSA sells (or at least stocks in their storefront) both types. I mention this because a the wrong length piston can cause you grief.

Yep. Sometimes the obvious is just too obvious.

Pull the slave cylinder apart and look for the internal spring. If you do not have the internal spring, it will not work correctly with the non-adjusting pin.

Just how do you know it sounds like a "leaky slave cylinder"? It could be a few things: 1) As Steve stated, it could simply be air in the line. Bleeding the line will help if this is the case. 2) Leaking master cylinder. Check the firewall inside the car for signs of leakage. Cheap to replace. If the slave cylinder has failed, replace the master cylinder as well. 3) Leaking slave cylinder. Check the slave cylinder for signs of leakage. Cheap to replace. If the master cylinder has failed, replace the slave cylinder as well. 4) Cracked clutch fork. 5) Broken pivot ball. 6) Failed pressure plate. 7) Improper slave cylinder adjustment (yes, it is a non-adjustable slave, but it could be that the spring is not functioning or is absent). Try to wiggle the clutch fork forward and backward. It should only barely move. The throwout bearing rests lightly against the pressure plate fingers. If you can move the fork towards the engine, you may have found the culprit. It sounds like you have had this problem for a while and it is finally fully manifesting itself. There are a few things you can do to diagnose the problem. It is getting harder to shift into first and reverse because your pressure plate disk is not fully disengaging from the clutch disk. This is caused by insufficient slave cylinder piston travel (see above for possible culprits). I was experiencing the very same phenomena as you and after pulling my hair out for months I finally tracked the problem down. My ACT pressure plate failed. The rivets holding the rings that contain the diaphragm spring inplace had stretched. This allowed the diaphragm spring to move when acted upon by the throwout bearing.

Jon, I have 3 non-adjustable (the automatically adjusting) slave cylinders in my workbench drawer that have an internal spring. The spring is around 2 inches long and tapers. The smallest end of the spring attaches to the slave cylinder piston. The largest end of the spring seats against a the back of the slave cylinder. I no longer have the pistons because I kept breaking the seal due to my ACT pressure plate issue (I kept overextending the slave piston). I can take a picture of the spring though.