ktm

Six shooter, which is why I said "some idea". I really did not want to, nor do I have the knowledge to, post a lengthy diatribe such as the one you posted. I am not that impressed with Corky Bells book. You have to read it for what it is though. There are a few great web resources to learn more about turbocharger, one of them being http://www.turbomustangs.com/turbotech/main.htm. Blue's website has a GREAT calculation demonstration mapping the theoretical airflow of an L28 and plotting it against various Garrett turbocharger compressor maps. Its a great resource in understanding how to select the right turbo for your application. Your post is quite good and has some nice information regarding twin turbos.

EScanlon beat me to the punch.

MEZZZ, post the pictures and then we can better assess the damage and make the appropriate recommendation. If the holes are small, you do not need to weld in new metal.

Your sending unit may be bad or you may have a lot of resistance through your wires. Remove the end of the cable from the transmission and add a little bit of oil (20 wt) to lubricate the cable. Open the doors in the meantime.

Only one person in this thread has some idea of what they are talking about, and that is HLS30. Please, if you do not know for 100%, don't spread wrong information. To the original poster, if you truly want to TT your L24, you have a LOOOOOONG road ahead of you. Everything will be custom fabricated and you will need to do A LOT of reading and research. The fact that you are posting here HOW to do this indicates that you are no where close to being ready to undertake this project.

MEZZZ, I'll swing by Michael's and find the clock I used and give you the part number. There is one within 1/2-mile of my house.

Good luck. I can not remember the size of the clock unit itself, but I know it is rather small and easily fit behind the OE face. I had to modify the stock Z hands in order for them to work correctly. The opening on the stock hands is ever so slightly too small, and as a result they will not seat correctly on the new spindles. I would try to use the stock hands without modifying them first though.

MEZZZ, I bought my quartz clock from a hobby store called Michaels. It was part of a clock "kit" that contained the hands, face and the small clock mechanism. It is quite small, maybe 1 inch in diameter if I remember correctly and thin. I glued it to the back of the OE face. The hands of the clock were very close in size to that of the Z hands.

The price you were quoted is consistent for a mandrel bent exhaust. I paid $400 (not including the muffler) for my 3-in. mandrel bent exhaust. I was quoted over $600 from some places. Considering the fact that an MSA premium system is around $200, shelling out another $200 for a custom fit exhaust is not unreasonable. However, it all depends on the individual. I ran the MSA exhaust on my car when I had the L24 because I did not want to spend $400 on an exhaust for the car. I **had** to spend the money on my recent build though. Pops'z has a great suggestion regarding the crush bent exhaust. You could still go a little larger in diameter if you so chose to counter-act the effects (negligible though) of the crushed bends. Everyone talks about mandrel bent exhausts as if they were the only way to go, but given the horsepower of a stock L24, crush bent systems are fine.

Arne, MSA's muffler has a center inlet and an offset outlet. If you do not mind spending a little bit extra, just get a custom exhaust fabricated for your car with your muffler of choice. I would get a 2-1/2 in. exhaust system and add a resonator to quiet it down.

Oil pressure sender is 1/8 BSPT. Coolant may be 1/4 BSPT.

www.carfiche.com They may have an FSM for your model year. If not, grab one that is closest in year. If it is showing N/A, just wait an hour and try again (as indicated on the web page).

205s will most definitely and 215s should clear on 7" wide wheels with a 0 offset. I only hit the valence at when turning sharp with my 225s. I agree about the look of slots on a Z. I had 14x5.5 Shelby slots on my car when I first bought it, but I really liked the look of the 16 spoke Western turbines.

Did you mess with the distributor/oil pump at all during the swap?

Will, your dedication to this endeavor is awe inspiring. Have you given consideration to the chromed finishers on the passenger side interior door pull/handle?

I took this to mean that since he has trouble with 2 wires, 6 would throw him fits.

How about something simple like the spark plugs being in the correct order. That has bit more than one owner: 153624, counter-clockwise from #1.

Arne, while mine are not Appliance Slots, I am running 14x7 Western 16-spoke Turbines with 225/60s. I had clearance issues on the lower valence, the right moreso than the left.

If you read his entire description, he basically states that the auction is for the motor.....

I was thinking the same thing Stephen. You need methodically go through the systems one by one and verify that they are operating per the factory specifications. These cars are quite simple to work on, even with their archaic EFI. Do not fall into the trap of just throwing parts at the car and hoping one of them works.

Dave, the illumination is actually not so bright that it is blinding. I used 5000 mcd LEDs with a 40 to 50 degree viewing angle. I used blue LEDs to soften the light. It came out fantastic but it was not as easy as your conversion.

"I think the next thing I'll do is add 2 more of the LED's inside the Speedometer shell, aimed at the dark spots that are aparent in the 4th picture." I removed my lights completely and installed LEDs around the face of the speedo and tacho. They light up the faces very well.

MEZZZ, I did this conversion myself as well and the stock hands fit onto the new clocks with a little bit of modification. All I had to do was to SLIGHTLY widen the hole so that the hands would slide all the way onto the spindle. Too much and the hands would not rotate, too little and they tend to shift.

1) Verify timing. Pull the valve cover and distributor cap. Manually rotate the engine until the pulley timing mark is showing 0 BTDC. Check that the cam lobes for #1 are making 'rabbit ears' and also check that the rotor on the distributor is pointing to #1. 2) Grab a Factor Service Manual (FSM) for the car from www.carfiche.com. I believe they have one for a 1977 280z. If not, grab one from a close year. 3) Adjust your AFM per the FSM and attempt to set it 'back to stock' if you can. 4) Verify that the cold start valve, thermotime switch, cylinder head temperature sensor (not sure if 1977 uses one)/water temperature sensor (not sure if 1977 uses one - if is either this of the CHTS) are all operating normally. 5) Install a fuel pressure gauge inline before the fuel pressure regulator. Verify that the fuel pressure is within the range specified by the FSM. 6) Verify that your injectors are clicking (open and closing) by putting a metal rod or screw driver against the injector and your ear at the other end. This is just a quick start off the top of my head.

When you pressed down on the cap, you may have shifted the rotor. Pull the cap and inspect the rotor. Also look at the contacts inside the cap. If both look fine, try putting them back on properly. Also check the plug wires incase you may have accidently dislodged one or the coil wire.